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Old 06-13-2016, 06:01 AM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bkahler View Post
Peter, I believe the OP was asking about the interior skin.
yup, my bad. I would not attempt to remove it from the ceilings. Its a tremendous amount of work and very toxic. The end result is not very pleasing. There have been many discussions on how to clean the sticky stuff for a while, since it continues to bleed through. Among other things, denatured or rubbing alcohol works pretty good.
The walls is whole different issue, since the vinyl is glued to thin plywood in many places that falls apart when you try to remove the vinyl. I have done different things with good success, like venetian plaster and grasscloth wallcovering. The secret to success is the right primer AFTER you pull the vinyl off and fix the wood. Getting anything to stick permanently to the vinyl is difficult, if not impossible, unless you use high temp contact adhesive.
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Old 06-13-2016, 02:55 PM   #16
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So I'm not sure how I did this but I named this thread saying it is a 325? It is in fact a 345... Can I rename the thread or just start a new one?
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Old 06-13-2016, 08:00 PM   #17
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So I'm not sure how I did this but I named this thread saying it is a 325? It is in fact a 345... Can I rename the thread or just start a new one?
Contact a moderator, they maybe able to help.

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Old 06-13-2016, 08:18 PM   #18
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Done.


Maggie
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Old 06-13-2016, 09:07 PM   #19
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Awesome! Thank you.
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Old 06-13-2016, 10:21 PM   #20
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Okay, now that's taken care off........back to the thread.

Why exactly are you thinking of stripping your interior walls? I'm now sure you mean the interior outer walls. Is it because they're sticky or faded or yellowed?

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Old 06-13-2016, 10:50 PM   #21
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Yea I mean the interior walls. I would like to get some nice exposed aluminum just like the new Airstream trailers.


Check out this trailer owners work. Looks very nice to me.

http://youtu.be/XS8LqjxS10Y
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Old 06-14-2016, 05:50 AM   #22
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Originally Posted by rmuller View Post
Yea I mean the interior walls. I would like to get some nice exposed aluminum just like the new Airstream trailers.

Check out this trailer owners work. Looks very nice to me.

http://youtu.be/XS8LqjxS10Y
I would sit down and carefully, and I do mean carefully consider this before you start. Once you start you will not be able to go back and I'm not sure that you would like the end result. You will also have many pieces of ABS plastic still inside like the front and rear end caps and window mouldings..............

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Old 06-14-2016, 06:32 AM   #23
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What he said. We gave some consideration to stripping some or all of our interior walls of the vinyl. Massive dirty job. Like Tony said, give yourself some time before jumping into that project. Give it a good scrubbing, there are many threads on products to use. Lynn (my wife) and I found that after we started making other improvements to the interior that the vinyl wall covering became less and less offensive. Its good stuff, lasted this long without major damage, and once its cleaned up its a very nuetral color that can be worked with. I would suggest you live with it for a while before you jump into stripping it.

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Old 06-14-2016, 06:35 AM   #24
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I would sit down and carefully, and I do mean carefully consider this before you start. Once you start you will not be able to go back and I'm not sure that you would like the end result. You will also have many pieces of ABS plastic still inside like the front and rear end caps and window mouldings..............

Cheers
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Just to build on what Tony has written.

We have the look that you describe, and to do so all the inner skins are replaced with ones from the current Airstream range - front to back aluminum. It is a very skilled task (equivalent to replacing the outer body panels), and panels cost a lot of money.

However the current range windows are different, in some cases aluminum window trims and close-outs are available (and reasonably priced) in other cases simple trim rings have to be custom made. As an example, original aluminum close-outs for the VistaView windows list at $75 but are not available, modern aluminum window trim cost about the same as the originals but are slightly different shapes/sizes (so you either have to change the window, and maybe the body panel the window mounts in, or black out the current glass to fit the trim), custom trim rings (and I needed 5) were nearly $700 each, just to get the complete look I wanted....you can achieve what you want but you are opening a 'can of worms' and be prepared for the consequences.
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Old 06-19-2016, 10:57 AM   #25
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So I have started going thru coach systems and have discovered I have a Swiss Cheese water heater. Here is a pic. It looks like and Atwood 9621 but I can't be sure because the labels are completely destroyed. Any thoughts? I really just want a direct replacement.Click image for larger version

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Old 06-19-2016, 02:36 PM   #26
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Okay I know you stated you wanted a direct replacement...BUT.....as with a lot of systems in our old vintage moho's there are way better systems out there. For example there are vented Platinum Cat catalytic propane heaters which use almost no power, way better water pumps, LED lights and nifty new water systems from.....

http://www.precisiontemp.com

Mehes has a 345 that uses this system to heat his water, has radiators along the coach with muffin fans for forced air kinda heating and also heats the floor.

It maybe pricier than the old water heater but will possibly serve you better in the long run.

Cheers
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Old 06-19-2016, 03:12 PM   #27
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If you want to go back with OEM, the G6A-8E, which was commonly used, has a door dimension of 18"x14 1/2".
BUT, yours probably has the 2 connections for the Engine coolant to heat the water while you driving. If you want to maintain that function, you need to make sure you get the right one.
I do not know what exact difference is between G6A-8E and 7E, 6E etc, nor do I know the cross refenrence to 96121 or 96110.
Do you know if the circuit board is functioning, I may interested in buying it from you.
The gas valve is an expensive replacement item, you may want to see if it works and sell it too.
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Old 06-19-2016, 06:06 PM   #28
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Any 6 gal Attwood will fit in the hole. You have a choice of pilot light, direct spark ignition, 110 volt heat and engine cooling system heat and several combinations of the above. I bought the direct spark ignition and 110 volt. At that time in order to get that combination I had to get the engine cooling system also, no choice. I spent the $$$ and never connected the engine coolant but it was worth it to get the 110 volt. It took me about 2 hours to change it in a campground in Anchorage and another 2 hours to run the circuit for the 110 plus a trip to Home Depot for wiring supplies and a circuit breaker.
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