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Old 04-28-2011, 12:29 PM   #1
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1983 31' Airstream310
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Mo/Ho compartment repair.

Here's the roadside slider, finally removed. I never paid much attention to the floor, should have, it's been leaking for years. Looks like the PO tried to patch the cracks without much sucess. Looks like he also put the gussets in to firm it up. They also leaked, and the lids don't seal completely because of them. However, I'm not going to get too carried away (yet). I'll strip the "patches" with the Dremel, clean the surface with "MEK", use fibreglass cloth and ABS glue to seal everything. If I last that long, I'll see if I can get some "doublers" of cloth and glue underneath. The weatherstripping on the lids is not too bad, but, geez, it's out, now's my chance. Anyone else had this happen? My curbside compartment (where I store the important things, like wax & fluids) is dry as a bone, but it's only half the width and, I guess, less strain on the top. Any suggestions?
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Old 04-28-2011, 02:59 PM   #2
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Yup, I think the MEK/ABS Slurry will get the job done, and will most likely be doing the same to mine.
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Old 04-28-2011, 04:41 PM   #3
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I'd bet every mo/ho that has those wide drawers has the same problem, it was a crummy design.
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Old 04-28-2011, 06:05 PM   #4
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I am seriously looking at getting a sheetmetal brake so I can bend some Aluminum to remake or improve some of the stuff I am seeing that is like this...
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Old 04-28-2011, 07:19 PM   #5
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Originally Posted by Keyair View Post
I am seriously looking at getting a sheetmetal brake so I can bend some Aluminum to remake or improve some of the stuff I am seeing that is like this...
Could be a good side gig for you, I looked at taking the whole top panel off today, but either AS or the PO had sealed the heck out of it (not very well, but the screws were sealed and would have to be drilled out and the sealer cut-back) where it mates to the front.
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Old 05-03-2011, 07:59 PM   #6
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Originally Posted by Mike Leary View Post
Could be a good side gig for you, I looked at taking the whole top panel off today, but either AS or the PO had sealed the heck out of it (not very well, but the screws were sealed and would have to be drilled out and the sealer cut-back) where it mates to the front.
I think a good grinder carefully applied would make quick work of the screws and patches Mike.
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Old 05-03-2011, 09:54 PM   #7
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I think a good grinder carefully applied would make quick work of the screws and patches Mike.
I tried that today, no luck, there's some kind of sealer in the phillips head tops and along the edge where it mates to the front that is really stubborn. I'm going to clean it with MEK and see what happens. Otherwise, I'll seal the whole front with MEK/ABS. I did get all the rust ground off the inside and coated it with a Rust Oleum bed liner spray. Will do the patching on the cracks tomorrow and send some pics. New sliders should be here soon!
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Old 05-07-2011, 03:32 AM   #8
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I too had the same problem.
The GRP top is bonded to the metal top. I took a mould of the top and made up a new GRP top and stuck it down. Getting the old top off without breaking it is nie impossible.

Out of interest it never leaked as such, only when water gathered at the edge near the outer locks. I reused the Aluminium lids and had no trouble since.

With it out I painted all surfaces with POR15 and still looks good after 6 years. And with English mud and rain too!
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Old 05-07-2011, 07:32 AM   #9
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Did mine last fall. The corners had rusted out and I had to get new pieces welded in. Cost $100.00.

I was able to get the screws out by just drilling them out. I replaced them with stainless steel screws. New paint and weather strip and good as new.

The leaks were coming from the screws which were slightly indented into the plastic and the sealer had dried up and cracked. Used some silicone to seal the new screws.
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Old 05-07-2011, 10:14 AM   #10
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The leaks were coming from the screws which were slightly indented into the plastic and the sealer had dried up and cracked.
Yup, except all my screws were not even sealed. Just about every screw position had been overtightned, causing the cracks/leaks. That whole thing should have been made of stainless or aluminium.
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Old 05-07-2011, 11:47 AM   #11
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Mike:
Isn't it odd how the mind and the system works.
If the OEM had done it right from the factory they would have been asking double the price and no one would buy it.
But gearheads like you and me will spend unlimited funds and time to upgrade these things to what they should have been from the factory.
Is it a conspiracy by the manufactures to enhance the after market parts sales?
Dave

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Originally Posted by Mike Leary View Post
Yup, except all my screws were not even sealed. Just about every screw position had been overtightned, causing the cracks/leaks. That whole thing should have been made of stainless or aluminium.
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Old 05-07-2011, 05:34 PM   #12
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I've always felt, when I've gotten crappy parts and/or found poor workmanship, that the conversation went like this: "Dave, we're firing you at the end of the day, finish the work on the assembly line and pick-up your (measly) paycheck at 4.30." Industrial sabotage. Anyhow, here's as far as I choose to go with the slide. All screw holes sealed with ABS after stripping & priming with MEK, all cracks sealed with fibreglass cloth and ABS glue. Caulked the lip on the right hand edge in # 5 pic. New slides installed. Did polish-up the lids, but after a couple of days dinking around, I decided I'm going to drink some some beer this afternoon. The new slides will need the bolt holes hogged-out, they're too small.
The part # from AS for the pair of Accuride slides is #381037.
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Old 05-07-2011, 05:34 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by masseyfarm View Post
Mike:
Isn't it odd how the mind and the system works.
If the OEM had done it right from the factory they would have been asking double the price and no one would buy it.
But gearheads like you and me will spend unlimited funds and time to upgrade these things to what they should have been from the factory.
Is it a conspiracy by the manufactures to enhance the after market parts sales?
Dave
I was told one time that the Harley dealers count on a customer spending 5 to $8,000 on accessory's for a new Bike Purchased. could be Dave
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Old 05-14-2011, 03:41 PM   #14
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In it went, not that easy. Two people are needed, natch. When installing the new slides to the compartment, they should be pushed as far up to the top of the slide cover as possible, even if that means grinding everything smooth, otherwise the latches will not clear when closing.Don't use washers on the outside, the slides will hit them. When removing it, I'd block it up and remove the slides from the compartment and lower it.. Installation is the inverse: slide (carefully, with the installed slides) into the coach all the way, put the four bolts into the rear compartment slides from the frame rail on top. You might only get the back two in, snug them, but don't dog them down, yet. Now you can slide the whole compartment out just enough to get the bolts in on the frame rails (use new self-locking nuts). Don't tighten any of the bolts, yet. With some help, carefully slide the compartment in and out to align it side to side. When it seems to fit with no binding (mine did), tighten the rear bolts, slide it all the way out and tighten the fronts. A 7/16" open-end wrench and a 1/4" drive socket wrench with a deep-well 7/16" socket will work. It's tight quarters up there. I like the bed- sealer for the inside, I even sealed the (stupid) "drain". If I had to do it again, I'd hog-out the bolt holes on the sliders on the frame attachment front-to-back with a drill press, that would make alignment a lot easier and make for a more accurate fit.
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