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Old 10-15-2015, 06:58 PM   #201
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On my '82, I have overhead cabinets on both sides in the rear plus the one on the very back. Tambour doors on all. It was originally the rear lounge model but I converted to an east west queen. Had to for sleeping with a funky back. Kids are up and gone also so not too worried about the extra seating. Sure would like to have the wooden overhead cabinets like the 345......
Look at the bright side, Mike. Those solid wood cabinets add quite a few pounds to an already very heavy vehicle. I personally think that they pushed the limit on the weight of the 345's, which results in the engine running too hot. Other than the large storage compartment on the right rear of the 345, the 310 has everything I need, without the extra 2000#.
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Old 10-15-2015, 07:37 PM   #202
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I had a 1994 34' LY for several years with close to the same weight as my 345 and the engine always ran nice and cool. There was much more cooling air coming up from right and left of the engine compartment, with the broader, squarer front, and I think that is what made the difference. Has anyone ever modified the classic to have intakes (maybe just under the bumper? or?) for a ram effect channeling air along the sides of the engine?
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Old 10-15-2015, 07:42 PM   #203
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I had a 1994 34' LY for several years with close to the same weight as my 345 and the engine always ran nice and cool. There was much more cooling air coming up from right and left of the engine compartment, with the broader, squarer front, and I think that is what made the difference. Has anyone ever modified the classic to have intakes (maybe just under the bumper? or?) for a ram effect channeling air along the sides of the engine?
I may be bias, since every 345 I have owned, seen or driven ran at 210-220.
One factor is your climate. We have to deal with 100+ temperatures for month at a time. Today it was 95. What temp does your 345 run at compared to your LY?
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Old 10-15-2015, 07:52 PM   #204
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I may be bias, since every 345 I have owned, seen or driven ran at 210-220.
One factor is your climate. We have to deal with 100+ temperatures for month at a time. Today it was 95. What temp does your 345 run at compared to your LY?
Much hotter for sure. We ran the LY along the Columbia Gorge and up through Tri-Cities one trip with temperatures in the 98 to 106 range without a problem, and had other trips in the high 80's and 90's, and I guess the main thing is (since I have little trust in the gauges' accuracy) that the electric fans seldom came on. I have never run the 345 in anywhere near the same temperatures but the fans come on even on cool days, and the gauge stays very high..... whether that is accurate I do not know, but taken all in all, the 345 seems to be hotter running.
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Old 10-15-2015, 08:10 PM   #205
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Much hotter for sure. We ran the LY along the Columbia Gorge and up through Tri-Cities one trip with temperatures in the 98 to 106 range without a problem, and had other trips in the high 80's and 90's, and I guess the main thing is (since I have little trust in the gauges' accuracy) that the electric fans seldom came on. I have never run the 345 in anywhere near the same temperatures but the fans come on even on cool days, and the gauge stays very high..... whether that is accurate I do not know, but taken all in all, the 345 seems to be hotter running.
Don't mean to Hijack your tread, Mike, this is just interesting stuff that we all have to deal with. I think it's a weight/design issue. My friend Marcus with the 345 in Germany (colder climate) was freaking out over the 220. He did this real involved radiator flush just to see his engine run at 220. Chris here in Austin has the same issue with his 350, 220 even after he had the radiator replaced. I put the electric fans on a switch for him , so he could turn them on anytime, especially when stuck in traffic, just to keep him at 220.
The 345 I owned had the very same issue and i used a laser light to confirm the temp.
My 280 ran at 190 and my current 310 runs at 200 and doesn't even have the electric fans. 2-3000 pounds make a huge difference imho.
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Old 10-15-2015, 08:16 PM   #206
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The lack of heat on the passenger side reminds me of our '64 Alfa Romeo sedan, and my DW's comments on one trip. On one chilly fall trip up to Road America, shortly after we got it back in the early 90's, Becky was asking if I was warm enough. Just right, I replied. A few miles later, she questioned if the heater worked, and I said that I was warm enough, so it seemed to be okay. Finally, she said that she was freezing, so something wasn't right! I switched on the one speed electric fan, and, voila!, instant heat to both sides. In the mind of the Italian designer, the driver's comfort was of primary importance, and it was up to the driver to decide the comfort of the passenger.
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Old 10-15-2015, 08:47 PM   #207
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So Peter, maybe I shouldn't even be concerned, so long as it doesn't boil over. I bought a 1988 Suburban with a 350 in 1990, and it always ran at 220, but was fine, and about the same time had a 1989 Scottsdale with a 350 that also had a normal high gauge temperature. On the other hand a 1990 F250 with a 460 stayed down at 170 or so. If I had not had the LY for several years that, if I remember correctly, was usually around the 200 mark on the gauge, then probably the high gauge temperature of the 345 would not have bothered me. A PO has fitted a manual override switch for the electric fans on the 345, which also made me a little more aware of the issue.

The LY had a much more open feel around the engine, and the 345 is closed in, as I am sure are all the Classics. Whilst I am tempted to strip a bunch of metal out to make for more air flow around the engine, I read on here about people making an inner fender on the passenger side to ensure that air flows past the rear end of the exhaust manifold, so doing the opposite of what I was thinking!

I'm a little bit mystified by this whole air flow and cooling question.
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Old 10-15-2015, 10:05 PM   #208
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The owner's manual for our '84 310 says that normal operating temperature is 190 to 240. That's what we saw before and after having our radiator cored as PM. I guess is was designed that way?
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Old 10-16-2015, 05:22 AM   #209
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....

The LY had a much more open feel around the engine, and the 345 is closed in, as I am sure are all the Classics. Whilst I am tempted to strip a bunch of metal out to make for more air flow around the engine, I read on here about people making an inner fender on the passenger side to ensure that air flows past the rear end of the exhaust manifold, so doing the opposite of what I was thinking!

I'm a little bit mystified by this whole air flow and cooling question.
I will start a new thread to get others input.
http://www.airforums.com/forums/f159...ml#post1697647
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Old 10-16-2015, 05:33 AM   #210
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I wonder what the average running temp is for these old Isuzu diesels. Mine runs at about 185 and stays right there. You can watch when the thermostat opens when the engine is warming up. It will climb up to 200 then will settle back at the running temp.

It will be interesting to see what the comfort level will be on the road when we take off going west in Dec.. Im assuming we will need to run the coach furnace also while driving. Maybe set at a low temp like 55 degrees. Im also wondering if the alternator/isolator will keep the coach batteries sufficiently charged while driving and running the furnace blower motor. I guess Ill find out.
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Old 10-16-2015, 05:40 AM   #211
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I wonder what the average running temp is for these old Isuzu diesels. Mine runs at about 185 and stays right there. You can watch when the thermostat opens when the engine is warming up. It will climb up to 200 then will settle back at the running temp.

It will be interesting to see what the comfort level will be on the road when we take off going west in Dec.. Im assuming we will need to run the coach furnace also while driving. Maybe set at a low temp like 55 degrees. Im also wondering if the alternator/isolator will keep the coach batteries sufficiently charged while driving and running the furnace blower motor. I guess Ill find out.
Not sure if I would attempt to run the gas furnace while driving, Mike. Don't you have the rear aux heater under the couch?
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Old 10-16-2015, 05:50 AM   #212
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Nope. Just the propane powered forced air. Do you think it would be a hazard or a mechanical issue?.
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Old 10-16-2015, 05:59 AM   #213
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Nope. Just the propane powered forced air. Do you think it would be a hazard or a mechanical issue?.
My personal opinion:
I don't like to drive with the propane on. Besides that I would be concerned that carbon monoxide would be forced back into the coach from the driving wind.
I would run the generator and mount an oil radiator somewhere, before I would run the furnace.
But, I have never driven with gas furnace on, so I may be totally wrong.
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Old 10-16-2015, 06:12 AM   #214
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Ive considered that too, except running our small ceramic heaters. I know there are a lot of differing opinions about propane use on the road. Ive wiring my generator to power an outlet for the rear AC, so I could actually run 2 of the 1500 watt ceramic heaters off the generators two circuits. I did that mod to be able to run the rear air off of an additional shore power cord. I dont know if the generator or the furnace consumes more propane but that would be factored in also. Personally Im ok with running propane powered appliances (fridge etc) while driving but I respect and understand the difference in opinions.

http://community.fmca.com/topic/3347...e-on-the-road/

http://rvtravel.com/publish/newslett...octor385.shtml

Just a couple links on running the furnace on the road.

Mike
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Old 10-16-2015, 08:47 AM   #215
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I have been running with the furnace on for years now. I set the thermostat at 68 or so and let it do its thing.

There is flame failure protection built in and so no risk, but only once in many thousand miles and 30 years have I ever found that the flame had failed, and that was after being buffeted by a huge side gust. If you are four (sometimes even 3) season running up here, there is no alternative, (just like you Southerners and running with the generator going for the roof AC), because in a big coach your engine will not keep the whole vehicle comfortable, with or without the auxiliary heater. I wouldn't worry.
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Old 10-16-2015, 03:55 PM   #216
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I have been running with the furnace on for years now. I set the thermostat at 68 or so and let it do its thing.

There is flame failure protection built in and so no risk, but only once in many thousand miles and 30 years have I ever found that the flame had failed, and that was after being buffeted by a huge side gust. If you are four (sometimes even 3) season running up here, there is no alternative, (just like you Southerners and running with the generator going for the roof AC), because in a big coach your engine will not keep the whole vehicle comfortable, with or without the auxiliary heater. I wouldn't worry.
See Mike, listen to one of your northern friends with hands on experience in those matters. To be honest, I have not once considered running the coach furnace while traveling. I once pulled my 34' trailer with the gas on to run the fridge, but everytime I stopped the pilot light was out.
At least the gas lines are tucked away on a Moho, versus being the very first thing to get torn out on a trailer by road debris, since they are run below the belly pan.
My biggest concern is the escape route in the classics, or the lack of.
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Old 10-16-2015, 04:23 PM   #217
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Thats whats great about the geographic reach of Airforums.
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Old 10-16-2015, 05:11 PM   #218
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... and yes, the fridge does run on propane when on the road. I always feel it runs colder on propane, whether that's true or not.

The most potentially dangerous thing about leaving the furnace running is forgetting to turn off the furnace and fridge when at a gas station. This is just a routine we get into, before we pull up near the pumps.
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Old 10-16-2015, 05:20 PM   #219
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Thats whats great about the geographic reach of Airforums.
The really crazy thing is....All my years of living in Canada except three years in North Vancouver have been BELOW the 49th parallel (which is the geographical U.S Can border). Wilder still, in two separate parts of the country, Saltspring Island/Victoria and South Western Ontario.

Interesting note...If you take the ferry from Tsawwassen to Swartz bay or the Gulf Islands, as you leave port, U.S territory (Point Roberts) is to the north, not the south of your ferry, and your ferry travels through US waters for a few miles.

Check out Angle Inlet, Oak Island Minnesota residence, who in order to travel to the rest of the U.S must either take a boat OR cross the border into Manitoba to get to the U.S. There is no border post on the US side, so all visitors to Angle Inlet are asked to phone a U.S border post on crossing the border there. Why they drew the border that way is beyond me.

BTW I do drive with propane on to operate the fridge but get the system checked out.

Cheers from your northern, or southern friend
Cheers
Tony
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Old 10-16-2015, 05:44 PM   #220
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I travel with propane refrig on. I would not have done that with the previous refrig however. I'm glad that I never ran it on propane at the ranch either!
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