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Old 07-29-2015, 02:21 PM   #99
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Your air conditioning units probably have 12 volt control systems. Turn the AC power off and the units on. You will probably see the lights come on.
Kota, I have not seen any 12vdc circuits going to the air conditioners before but then I haven't dealt much with the newer rigs. It's going to be interesting to see what Mike ends up finding when it's all said and done.
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Old 07-29-2015, 02:49 PM   #100
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Kota, I have not seen any 12vdc circuits going to the air conditioners before but then I haven't dealt much with the newer rigs. It's going to be interesting to see what Mike ends up finding when it's all said and done.

http://www.dometic.com/QBankFiles3/E...nual_17591.pdf

Check out section D in the installation guide: Connection of low voltage wires.

Sneaky little bastards.

Bet the fridge is a parasite too!
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Old 07-29-2015, 03:14 PM   #101
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http://www.dometic.com/QBankFiles3/E...nual_17591.pdf

Check out section D in the installation guide: Connection of low voltage wires.

Sneaky little bastards.
Well that's a first for me, thanks for pointing it out. I hadn't seen an AC unit that required a separate 12 vdc source. My suburban furnace does require a 12 vdc source so that might be something for Mike to check into.

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Bet the fridge is a parasite too!
Now on fridges I'm used to seeing the DC control voltage from the coach batteries.
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Old 07-29-2015, 03:37 PM   #102
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Hey Dave,
My AC units dont have any lights on the control boards. Im pretty sure they are original units, Coleman Mach series. I dont think that they have any 12v to them. The fridge definately does have 12volt controls but its been turned off during testing.
Once Lynn has a minute or two to give me a hand, Ill have her sit and read the meter while Im up under the dash pulling the fuses. Pretty difficult with my back to get in and out from under there.......difficult for ANYBODY really. At least I can try to narrow it down to what circuit(s) I need to look at.

With the age of the coach, the horrendous original wiring loom and handiwork of POs, I might never get a "0" reading for a parasitic drain.....who knows. Ive got plenty more testing to do though. Got a new solenoid delivered just now, might just keep it in stock not sure.

This situation really could have been happening the whole time that Ive had the coach and I just didnt realize it until we have started boondocking more. Almost all the time in our travels so far we have had access to shore power. So the coach batteries have always had a good charge when we have camped for a few days and then went to start the coach. Even if the chassis battery had gotten somewhat discharged, when the solenoid combines all three its been enough to always start the coach with no problems. I didnt realize we had a problem until a recent trip where we boondocked for 3 days. I hadnt started the generator to recharge the coach batteries yet one morning after using a ceiling vent fan overnight. So my coach batteries were low and when I went to start the coach the chassis battery had run down over the three days. So this may have been happening all along and I just hadnt had a situation where it showed itself.

Ill know more here soon hopefully. Might be tomorrow evening before I can get Lynn to give me a hand.

Mike
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Old 07-29-2015, 07:23 PM   #103
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This situation really could have been happening the whole time that Ive had the coach and I just didnt realize it until we have started boondocking more. Almost all the time in our travels so far we have had access to shore power. So the coach batteries have always had a good charge when we have camped for a few days and then went to start the coach. Even if the chassis battery had gotten somewhat discharged, when the solenoid combines all three its been enough to always start the coach with no problems. I didnt realize we had a problem until a recent trip where we boondocked for 3 days. I hadnt started the generator to recharge the coach batteries yet one morning after using a ceiling vent fan overnight. So my coach batteries were low and when I went to start the coach the chassis battery had run down over the three days. So this may have been happening all along and I just hadnt had a situation where it showed itself.
Mike, what you stated above definitely makes sense. If you have a modern radio then it likely has some sort of draw. I moved the dash radio power over to the coach batteries just so I wouldn't have to worry about the memory draw from the radio.

Looking forward to hearing about what you find!

Brad
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Old 07-29-2015, 09:51 PM   #104
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Yup Brad, when I installed the new head unit for the stereo I made sure to wire both the power feed and the memory feed to the coach batteries.
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Old 07-30-2015, 12:13 PM   #105
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This is similar to my fuse block. Ran a couple wires from my battery compartment up to the dash so I could read my meter as I pulled fuses. The parasitic drain was coming from a wire that was plugged into the upper most receptacle labeled "c" on the front of the block and was fused by the 20amp fuse right next to it. The wire is spliced a few inches from the fuse block, one going up behind the dash near the gauges and the other side of the splice heading towards the passenger side and was part of the dash air conditioning system. The dash AC was removed by a previous owner. The cruise control shares the same fuse. When I pulled the connector out of the front of the block the amp draw went to "0". The wire headed towards the passenger side drops down under the heater core and through the floor I believe. Maybe headed towards where the compressor was? Havent got that far yet. The heating system and the AC are two separate systems, two different blowers and controls. Maybe one of you knows what that wire might be, or the one heading up towards the gauges but Im sure it has something to do with the now removed dash AC. Put everything back together and tested my systems, everything working fine. Ill investigate a bit more but for now the drain is gone, still need to take my battery back to the store for "load test".

Thanks for all the help fellas, what a great resource we all share here on the forums!!!!!


On a FUN note, got to meet up with Sheperd57 last night as he and his wife are headed from Ontario CA out to Sturgis. Had a great time, the four of us went out to dinner at a really good German eatery in a small town about 30 miles north of our home. Lotsofun! So cool to meet face to face with fellow Classic owners, great folks.

Mike


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Old 07-30-2015, 12:27 PM   #106
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Attachment 244266

This is similar to my fuse block. Ran a couple wires from my battery compartment up to the dash so I could read my meter as I pulled fuses. The parasitic drain was coming from a wire that was plugged into the upper most receptacle labeled "c" on the front of the block and was fused by the 20amp fuse right next to it. The wire is spliced a few inches from the fuse block, one going up behind the dash near the gauges and the other side of the splice heading towards the passenger side and was part of the dash air conditioning system. The dash AC was removed by a previous owner. The cruise control shares the same fuse. When I pulled the connector out of the front of the block the amp draw went to "0". The wire headed towards the passenger side drops down under the heater core and through the floor I believe. Maybe headed towards where the compressor was? Havent got that far yet. The heating system and the AC are two separate systems, two different blowers and controls. Maybe one of you knows what that wire might be, or the one heading up towards the gauges but Im sure it has something to do with the now removed dash AC. Put everything back together and tested my systems, everything working fine. Ill investigate a bit more but for now the drain is gone, still need to take my battery back to the store for "load test".
Good news for a change!

The wire that heads towards the passenger side could be part of your steps. Not sure if you have electric or vacuum steps but on the vacuum steps there is one wire that is used to energize/de-energize the solenoid to open and close the steps.

I'm not sure what else would be in that area of the coach that would be routed the way your wire is routed. What color is the wire? I'm vaguely remembering a yellow wire on the 310 that I had.

Quote:
Thanks for all the help fellas, what a great resource we all share here on the forums!!!!!
Definitely a great resource!

Quote:
On a FUN note, got to meet up with Sheperd57 last night as he and his wife are headed from Ontario CA out to Sturgis. Had a great time, the four of us went out to dinner at a really good German eatery in a small town about 30 miles north of our home. Lotsofun! So cool to meet face to face with fellow Classic owners, great folks.
I got to meet John a couple of years ago during a parts swap. I'm not sure I believe that he's as old as he says he. He certainly doesn't look (or act) his declared age
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Old 07-30-2015, 12:33 PM   #107
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I couldnt believe it when he mentioned his age
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Old 07-30-2015, 12:34 PM   #108
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I better check my stairs, they are vacuum still, that wire is a #12 and orange
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Old 07-30-2015, 01:19 PM   #109
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Well Brad that makes total sense that the wire could be related to the steps, especially the way its routed. Checked them out and they are operating as they should be.......thankfully. I hadnt even thought of the steps though when checking things out after I had removed that wire. Thanks for the consideration though. Ill get underneath and see if I can find where that terminates. (Or DID terminate)
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Old 07-30-2015, 01:37 PM   #110
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I better check my stairs, they are vacuum still, that wire is a #12 and orange
Yep, #12 is what I remember as well. I'm thinking it should be energized only when the ignition switch is on (or accessory as well?).

If this is the wire in question I think it first goes to the switch that is inside the wall. You can access it by pulling the switch out from the door jam.

I found out the hard way that this wire was powered from the ignition on my old 310 because I had installed new electric steps and used that switch to control the step retract feature. Unfortunately the step retract feature was expecting a ground signal from the switch and not +12vdc. This caused the steps to act very strangely

Brad
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Old 07-31-2015, 11:46 AM   #111
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I left the chassis disconnect on over night just to make sure I had solved the problem with the battery drain....perfecto, no more parasitic drain. No voltage drop. I think Im all good. For TODAY! Thanks for all the input fellas.

Mike
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Old 07-31-2015, 12:00 PM   #112
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Great! Now you can sleep without worries tonight...

So the final results were a drain from the vacuum steps and the cruise control?

Cruise control is easy if you remember to leave it turned off, or better yet connect it to the hot side of the ignition switch.

What did you do about the steps?
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