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Old 03-12-2016, 03:29 PM   #421
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........... Ill invest $1500 in spare/hard to get parts and break down in the middle of some swamp in Louisiana, it will be a $5 dollar part I'm not carrying

Actually with a 36 year old diesel, that would be a great place to have issues since all of their swamp stuff is from the same time period and Budreaux could fix it in 2 minutes with some bailing wire and parts he keeps on hand for his 40 year old diesel truck!

I speak from experience since I broke down in the middle of nowhere Alabama and the nearest Diesel shop happened to work on old cummins daily and was a nationally known early model cummins fuel pump rebuild shop for the marine and industrial folks.....
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Old 03-12-2016, 04:58 PM   #422
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I remember that Dave, and didnt the shop have some catchy name like....Dixie Diesel or something?
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Old 03-12-2016, 05:33 PM   #423
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Not having the five dollar part is part of Murphy's Law...just saying
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Old 03-12-2016, 06:01 PM   #424
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I don't know what world you boys are living in, but for the love of all that is holy.......What part on our Isuzu 6BD1 is five bucks. Heck even the K&N oil filter oil is a gazillion dollars an ounce.

The filters are not cheap and the rest is bloody unobtanium.

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Old 03-12-2016, 09:04 PM   #425
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One rubber seal/washer for valve cover bolt is $1.73 but you need 5


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Old 03-12-2016, 09:51 PM   #426
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One rubber seal/washer for valve cover bolt is $1.73 but you need 5


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Dang it dear, I jest dropped that dang rubber seal for the valve cover bolt so we're stuck and we jest not going anywhere.....Doesn't count....

HOWEVER a stainless steel hose clamp that breaks costing less than $5.00 would leave you cursing on the side of the road, but not worried about getting a replacement.

Have you thought of taking a spare starter relay solenoid?

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Old 03-13-2016, 05:34 AM   #427
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Thats a good idea Tony.
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Old 03-13-2016, 07:51 PM   #428
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I remember that Dave, and didnt the shop have some catchy name like....Dixie Diesel or something?
Yup Dixie Diesel. 6 hr drive from here. I am gonna take the beast there for all her diesel work.

AS far as parts What you mentioned and:

Hydraulic filter (if so equip)

a complete change of oil, antifreeze brake and steering fluid. Not that you will do a change, but enough to keep it full if there is a slow leak till you can get somewhere.

At least 3 spare primary and 2 secondary fuel filters if going remote or if you use special filters. The NAPA Gold for my engine are actually bad since they are too fine and clog very quickly... Not recommended by the manufacturer for that reason.

A torque wrench. I carry a 1/2 for the wheels.

A 1/4" torque wrench

feeler gauge (so you can set intake and exhaust clearances) Normal maint on a diesel.

Emergency repair tape.. for fluids

shark bite fittings. End cap and 2 junctions. So you can replace a pice that is leaking or just cap it off.

A few feet of pex (enough to do a bypass) I slid a length between the water tank and the wall

spark plugs for gene

Engine starter (with solenoid) The biggest killer is old wires and heat from a diesel. We have both! Ask me how I know....

small battery charger/minder. I keep it hooked up if I am parked for a few days since the locks and steps work off the start battery.

various screws

Various size rivets with pop rivet gun

a tube of tempro/sikloflex

a bottle of Capt Tully's creeking crack cure

spare primary fuel pump if you haven't replaced uours in last 10 years (rubber diaphragms rot ) This can always be kept at friends house and fedex'd

spare cork screw

spare fuses (bussman or equivalent) Inventory every fuse you have.
Spare belts for everything.

Can of either... Starting fluid....etc.

Box wrenches to bleed fuel system if need be.

Good Sam Roadside assistance card. I would never leave home with out it!

spare fuel line.
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Old 03-30-2016, 04:42 PM   #429
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Finally broke down and bought some new compartment door locks for the 310. Ill be able to flip flop some of the locks so these two new ones will go on the 2 lock compartment door just behind the entry steps. Yes, one more key on the ring. They are pricey little buggers from Mr Lock. The original locks were by Chicago Lock (no longer in biz) #4260-1. Mr Lock numbers are 19587 for the lock without cylinder and 19605 for the cylinder with 2 keys. Total price to my door was $125.13.

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One more little thing off the list.


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Old 03-30-2016, 06:09 PM   #430
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Just a note on these locks. These locks were also used on Coleman popup campers and they call them "stepper door lock". The Coleman camper used only one lock per camper. If youve got a useable cylinder for your lock off the Airstream then you could use it in a salvaged lock from one of these Coleman popup campers. I found quite a few on Ebay and they are indeed the Chicago Lock #4260. You would also need the bar latch off the back of the lock because Coleman had a different mechanism. Might be able to save some money by finding one or more off of older Coleman popups. I wanted new. Just thought Id pass that along.
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Old 03-31-2016, 05:48 AM   #431
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That cost just as much as my front door lock set!

Getting her ready for May I see.

Cheers
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Old 03-31-2016, 06:08 AM   #432
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"That cost just as much as my front door lock set!

Getting her ready for May I see."

As good excuse as any I suppose. When I got the rig NONE of the compartment door locks were operable. I was able to get all but one working. Ive put off buying these for some reason.
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Old 04-16-2016, 09:14 AM   #433
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MAYCO's 1982 310 TD

We were able to get out and shake the dust off the rig this weekend. Just an hour away from home but a nice park, Moraine View State Park. All systems go so far on the 310, running real well.
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Old 04-17-2016, 09:15 AM   #434
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Looks beautiful Mike...your coach and the park! I'm jealous since I'm working again this weekend.


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