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Old 07-10-2015, 11:57 AM   #29
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Oh, the upholstered top on the dog house is removable also, just velcro holding it in place.


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Old 07-10-2015, 02:57 PM   #30
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Mike, I have the Onan 4.0 in my '82. The 4.0 and 6.5 are almost identical aside from the output. I have changed the points and condenser on mine. The points are located under that little cover just under the carburetor. Which I'm guessing you know since you sandpapered the points. They were not that difficult to change. The real issue in changing the points is that you have to set the point gap. It took me a few tries before I got it right. The GenSet will not start if they are too far out of spec. It is also important to make sure your feeler gauge is clean and void of any oil or you will burn the points...experience from years past. Setting the points on my GenSet reminded me of the days when I was 18 and "regularly" adjusted the points on the Mallory distributor in my '69 Chevelle. I'm so happy that it is only the GenSet that has points out of all my "gas" toys today!

The running and voltage drop you are experiencing is the same as what I get. However, when I run my roof A/C, I get even a greater voltage drop then you do (112-114), but it is the same drop as when I run on shore power. When I frequently test the GenSet (I try to run it about once a month) I will let it warm up a bit, then I will turn on the microwave to add a load and run it for a bit. When I'm sure all is ok, I will turn off the microwave and sometimes kick on the roof A/C...that is the real test. If you don't think the GenSet is sounding right, don't test the A/C as you know the compressors can burn out if they don't get enough volts and then draw too many amps. Its also not that fun to have to get up on the roof and change out the capacitors which I have had to do.

The issue I typically have with mine is that until it is warmed up, it runs too fast which increases the hertz and the voltage. Sometimes my interior surge protector unit will shut off the power to the coach in this case. If you haven't played with the carburetor adjustments, there are two of them. I believe the one on the right side of the carburetor is the idle adjustment and there is one on the back of the carburetor for the air/fuel mixture. The air/fuel mixture adjustment has become my best friend. When my GenSet seems not to be running correctly...surging, running fast or puffing out black smoke like crazy...I have learned to adjust the air/fuel mixture and it settles right down. The screw for the air/fuel mixture can be turned by hand with no tool. Only issue is that I had to get over the fear of reaching back there with the GenSet running.

I never thought the GenSet would be so susceptible to altitude changes, but it is. The ranch is maybe 1200-1500 ft and I'm guessing Burning Man in the Nevada desert is what maybe 3000 ft and Yosemite maybe what 6000 ft. I have to adjust the air/fuel mixture for all three of these altitudes. Usually the sign is the black smoke!

I really like your removable dog house cover. I carpeted mine with no padding under it so as to have as flat a surface as possible. However, I have learned to use cup holders with wide bases even if setting a drink on the dog house top. I have spilled red wine, white wine and soda on it more then once...ok the white wine spill was one time I was sitting up late with a glass of white wine in my hand and I "fell asleep".
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Old 07-10-2015, 03:03 PM   #31
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After posting, I remembered that I think you have a diesel and so I'm guessing your GenSet runs on propane. Maybe the propane "carb" setup is in the way of getting to your points where on the gas carb there is a lot of room.

I would guess that the air/fuel mixture running on propane would be just as important as when running on gas.
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Old 07-10-2015, 03:34 PM   #32
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Thanks Dean, great info. It is propane but the points are in that same location. If I were to change the points I think I would have to use a mirror because I can only see the very end. Cant get my head over the top to see the point gap. You know I bet the 6.5 is just enough taller than the 4.0. I can feel my way around, thus cleaning them but cant figure a way to actually get a look at em to set the gap. Maybe Ill just leave well enough alone for now. Its running well, have no idea when the last time they were changed though. Ive tried to go through everything I possibly can and change out to new so I have a base line to work from. Thanks for your reply Dean.

Mike
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Old 07-10-2015, 03:38 PM   #33
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Now that you mention it, I also had to use a mirror...all part of the AS motorhome arsenal
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Old 07-10-2015, 07:02 PM   #34
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Thanks Dean, great info. It is propane but the points are in that same location. If I were to change the points I think I would have to use a mirror because I can only see the very end. Cant get my head over the top to see the point gap. You know I bet the 6.5 is just enough taller than the 4.0. I can feel my way around, thus cleaning them but cant figure a way to actually get a look at em to set the gap. Maybe Ill just leave well enough alone for now. Its running well, have no idea when the last time they were changed though. Ive tried to go through everything I possibly can and change out to new so I have a base line to work from. Thanks for your reply Dean.

Mike
MIke,

On your generator, you might consider mounting the generator on drawer slides. Makes it SO much easier to work on. I did the drawer slide conversion on my old 310 and I believe Keyair did the same thing on his 345.

The only mistake I made is I used drawer slides that would only let the generator slide out about 3/4 of the way. It still made it a whole lot easier to work on. On my Argosy I've bought drawer slides that will allow the generator to slide all the way out of the compartment.

Brad
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Old 07-11-2015, 04:41 AM   #35
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Thats the plan Brad. Not sure where it falls on the priority list right now. Ive read about others who have installed the slides and thats the way to go for sure. Did you post pictures of your slide install? I havent looked to see how much that genny weighs but the hardware on those slides must be awfully beefy. I would assume you make a platform of some sort and the genny sits on it? Then the whole unit, platform and genny slide out for service. Some type of locking mechanism to hold it in place when inside the genny compartment? Would you be willing to post the actual slides you used? Ill search the forums to see if I can find details on the project.

Thanks, Mike
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Old 07-11-2015, 04:45 AM   #36
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Just found your thread on the install.
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Old 07-11-2015, 07:29 AM   #37
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Mike,

These are the Accuride drawer slides I have bought for my Argosy. They are not the same ones that were used in the 310 installation. Three differences are the weight rating (Argosy slides rated higher), full extension instead of 3/4 extension and the slides have a lock to keep the drawer from sliding open or closed if you're parked on uneven ground.

I bought the slides from McMaster.com for around $130 or so for the pair.

Other than dealing with the weight of the generator it really wasn't all that difficult to do. The generator comes from the manufacturer on it's on steel base or plate. The generator compartment floor has a matching cutout for the exhaust. All I did was mount fairly stout pieces of angle iron on each side, mounted the drawer slides to each angle iron and mounted a piece of angle iron on the bottom sides of the generator base. The last picture in my build thread pretty much shows how I did it.

The bulk of the work was done with the generator sitting on a pair of saw horses. Everything was fitted and then I set the whole package into the compartment and bolted the two angle irons down to the generator compartment floor.

This arrangement raised the generator about 1/2" from the floor which turned out to be a non-issue. I used two bolts to secure the generator in place when in use.

Works great

Brad
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Old 07-27-2015, 06:30 AM   #38
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I seem to have developed a strange chassis battery drain situation. Somehow it seems that the coach 12v systems are draining the chassis battery. At least I think thats whats happening. Ive run several tests on the system and this is what I get: with the chassis battery disconnect turned on, then normal use of the coach 12v systems, it will drain the chassis battery down. If I flip off the chassis battery disconnect sw off, then no problems and the chassis battery holds a good charge no problems.
I went ahead and replaced the diode style battery isolator just to take it out of the equation problem still persists. Its my understanding that there are only two spots where the chassis battery and the coach batteries are potentially tied together; at the isolator and at the selenoid that combines the batteries when the ignition key is turned all the way to the start position.
Any ideas? Its not a problem as long as I remember to switch the battery disconnect off but Ill forget..........and undoubtably Ill be in the middle of nowhere when I do.
Could that seleniod cause this if it was bad? Like stuck closed or something. Any advise on how to proceed is appreciated.

Thak You as always,

Mike
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Old 07-27-2015, 09:53 AM   #39
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I seem to have developed a strange chassis battery drain situation. Somehow it seems that the coach 12v systems are draining the chassis battery. At least I think thats whats happening. Ive run several tests on the system and this is what I get: with the chassis battery disconnect turned on, then normal use of the coach 12v systems, it will drain the chassis battery down. If I flip off the chassis battery disconnect sw off, then no problems and the chassis battery holds a good charge no problems.
I went ahead and replaced the diode style battery isolator just to take it out of the equation problem still persists. Its my understanding that there are only two spots where the chassis battery and the coach batteries are potentially tied together; at the isolator and at the selenoid that combines the batteries when the ignition key is turned all the way to the start position.
Any ideas? Its not a problem as long as I remember to switch the battery disconnect off but Ill forget..........and undoubtably Ill be in the middle of nowhere when I do.
Could that seleniod cause this if it was bad? Like stuck closed or something. Any advise on how to proceed is appreciated.

Thak You as always,

Mike
For some reason I'm thinking the disconnect switch disconnects the coach batteries from the coach DC distribution system. I don't remember if it was supposed to disconnect the coach battery from the chassis battery.

However with that being said I think the diode isolator is supposed to isolate the engine alternator such that it can charge the chassis battery and the coach batteries at the same time without them being physically tied together via wiring. There is a solenoid (with switch in glove box) that you can energize to tie the two systems together so you can start the vehicle from the coach batteries.

That solenoid would indicate that the two systems are supposed to be isolated.

I made a sketch of the 310 disconnect wiring a while back. When I get home tonight I'll dig up the sketch and see what's connected to what.

Worst case is I crawl under the 310 and look at the wiring directly.

Brad
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Old 07-27-2015, 10:44 AM   #40
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Thanks Brad, on the diesel there is a solenoid that ties all the batteries together is on the side of the battery box. Its activated by turning the key all the way to the start position. (No glove box switch). The battery disconnect is right in the step well and indeed disconnects the 12v chassis battery to all chassis systems plus the starter to the generator. There is another disconnect switch that disconnects the converter to the coach batteries.
The isolator is as you describe and I just replaced it and it tests out just fine.

Could that solenoid be stuck in the "on" position and tying the two systems together ALL the time thus draining the chassis battery when the coach systems are used? The converter is doing its job keeping the coach batteries charged. The chassis battery holds its charge as long as I turn off the disconnect switch so I dont think I have a bad battery. The solenoid and the isolator are the only two places that I know of where the two 12v systems are potentially tied together.
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Old 07-27-2015, 11:49 AM   #41
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Thanks Brad, on the diesel there is a solenoid that ties all the batteries together is on the side of the battery box. Its activated by turning the key all the way to the start position. (No glove box switch). The battery disconnect is right in the step well and indeed disconnects the 12v chassis battery to all chassis systems plus the starter to the generator. There is another disconnect switch that disconnects the converter to the coach batteries.
The isolator is as you describe and I just replaced it and it tests out just fine.

Could that solenoid be stuck in the "on" position and tying the two systems together ALL the time thus draining the chassis battery when the coach systems are used? The converter is doing its job keeping the coach batteries charged. The chassis battery holds its charge as long as I turn off the disconnect switch so I dont think I have a bad battery. The solenoid and the isolator are the only two places that I know of where the two 12v systems are potentially tied together.
Unfortunately it won't do any good for me to check the 310 as it is definitely different than the diesel version.

I agree with your assessment about the isolator and the solenoid being the only two points where they are typically tied together. It wouldn't surprise me if the solenoid contacts were welded together inside. Wouldn't be the first time something like that has happened!

Sorry I can't help anymore than agree what what you've found to date.

Brad
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Old 07-27-2015, 12:02 PM   #42
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Ahhhhhhh, good thinkin there Brad. Ill crawl under there and see whats what. That very well could be. Thanks for the consideration.

Mike
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