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Old 11-21-2015, 08:00 AM   #261
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Peter, Im looking here. They are Raybestos Professional Grade but Im trying to find the part number in my records. They were rated as equal quality to the Moog brand. I looked in my maintenance log and found that I only wrote down the brand so Im hoping the part number is on the receipt.
The moog K6511 for the lowers came up both in my research and Josephs list.
I am curious if anyone ever the checked your ball joints prior to your frightening incident, which still has some of us shaking in their boots.
The play on the lowers ones is not to exceed 3/32, which can be checked quickly with a floor jack. My passenger side lower is right at or in access of the allowance, so they have to go.
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Old 11-21-2015, 08:40 AM   #262
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On lighter P30 vehicles I'd accept that spec. I think that chassis is overtaxed in the MH application. As soon ball joints develop some play, they tend to hammer themselves to death at an exponential rate. I'd use the best. A new set should last many years at the rate most of us use them.
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Old 11-21-2015, 08:49 AM   #263
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I highly doubt they had been checked correctly in quite some time. My bad. I knew they needed attention, they were on the list (nearing the top), but I obviously was willing to drive it on the road. We were lucky, understatement of the year.

Can you cross reference that Moog number somewhere?

Ive done research into the history of my 310 and it goes something like this. Im not sure who the first owner was but there as a foil sticker on the passenger side behind the front wheel that certified the rig in California when built. The next owner was in Ohio, not sure what year he bought it but the rig had 40,000 miles on it. There were telltale signs that this owner maintained the rig very well. They owned the rig for quite some time. In 2007, a family member of mine bought the rig with 119,000 miles on it. He had some work done on it but really didnt know what he had or what he was doing. Luckily, he didnt put many miles on the rig, probably less than 1000 total. He paid WAY TOO MUCH for the rig considerring the condition it was in when he bought it. Just normal things had been let go and needed attention. He passed away and I bought the rig in 2013 from his estate. I didnt really have a clue what I was getting in to but bought it right and never regretted it for a minute.

So, I had no real record of maintenance other than the few things that my brother had done to it while he owned it. (And that was brakes, oil change, a few other minor things)
So everything Ive done to this point has been through my own inspection and learning about the rig through others experience, mostly right here on the Forums. Ive never had any experience with a vehicle of this size, diesel motors, RVs, etc. etc.. I do feel awfully lucky in that I really didnt know how special the rig was when I bought it, having the diesel and the Allison behind it.
So as far as when the last time the ball joints were inspected correctly........I havent a clue.
I should have replaced them before our trip obviously. Lucky, very very lucky.
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Old 11-21-2015, 09:36 AM   #264
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...

Can you cross reference that Moog number somewhere?
..
These are O'Reillys options, both appear under the same part number K6511
List: Search for 'k6511' | O'Reilly Auto Parts
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Old 11-21-2015, 10:53 AM   #265
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Raybestos 505-1055
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Old 11-21-2015, 02:34 PM   #266
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Raybestos 505-1055
They seem to meet and exceed the weight requirements. Did you have both the uppers and the lowers replaced?
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Old 11-21-2015, 02:56 PM   #267
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Yes I did, 500-1021 the part number for the uppers. Same brand and grade.
Uppers, lowers,hub seals,and adjustment sleeves. Bearings were in good shape so just had them repacked.

Mike
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Old 12-01-2015, 07:22 AM   #268
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Im nearing an oil change on my Isuzu and have a couple questions.
1. Is there a speceific grade of oil I should use for this older diesel? Ive read on several different web sites about the subject and couldnt find a definitive answer. Are there diesel specific oils or is it ok to use something like a 15-40 off the shelf at the auto parts store? (I am not considerring a synthetic)

2. At What mileage intervals are you fellow Isuzu diesel owners changing your oil? Ive read here on the forums anywhere from every 3000 to 10,000 miles.

Getting ready for a 2000 mile trip and considerring an oil change before we go. Ive got about 4000 miles on my current oil.

Thank you as always fellas,

Mike
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Old 12-01-2015, 07:41 AM   #269
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I use Shell Rotella. Any of the diesel specific oils fine. Walmart runs sales quite often. Of all the hype about synthetics I think the only valid claim is its ability to maintain a film over longer periods of time reducing startup wear. Especially in engines that sit for longer periods of time between starts.

We usually put about 4 to 7 thousand miles per year on. I change oil every year before putting it up for storage. Those combustion products that make your oil turn black can become corrosive. More so in humid climates. More so if it's started occasionally and not run up to temperature to cook the moisture out.
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Old 12-01-2015, 09:41 AM   #270
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Ok, thanks Dave. So I SHOULD use a diesel specific oil, ahhhhh the things I learn here. I think Ill go ahead and change it before our trip. I am aware that the cartridge type filter has a top and bottom and care needs to be taken to install it correctly.

Thank you,
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Old 12-01-2015, 06:33 PM   #271
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Don't know much about the Isuzu filter but it's a good idea to fill the filter on the cummins before spinning it on. It's also a good idea to crank it with the fuel solenoid disconnected until you get oil pressure.
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Old 12-01-2015, 07:04 PM   #272
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Thanks Dave, thats what I did. I had read somewhere about filling the canister before installing. Got it done today, oil pressure was good. I used the Shell Rotella 15-40. 3 gallons plus one quart in the canister was right on mark if anyone is interested. Thanks for your info and patience with such remedial questions also. Ive just never owned a diesel and my mechanical knowledge in general is pretty basic. But learning all the time as I go here. Thanks again,

Mike
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Old 12-01-2015, 07:31 PM   #273
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Yup, learnt the hard way that not prefilling the oil cartridge leads to an in terminal length of time before the oil pressure gauge comes alive. It probably wasn't more than 10 seconds but it was too long. I'll never do that again, although I doubt any serious damage was done as the engine was warm and the idle is so low.

As you found out, make sure oil is diesel rated. Rotella 15W-40 is what I use as well.

Mike Leary with his 310 found out putting the oil filter in backwards stops the oil flow completely. The mechanic told him to just take the coach out on the road until the pressure built up, resulted in a blown turbo, and luckily for Mike, no other apparent damage. There is a thread somewhere on the forum about this.

DON"T FORGET THE SPRING!

As for time or kms before changing, I don't run more a couple thousand kms a year anyway, so I change my oil as my winterization. I don't think I would go more than 5,000 kms before a change. Fluids are cheap compared to an engine rebuild.

Cheers
Tony

The one issue I have never explored are diesel people flushing the old oil out with a quart of transmission fluid. Supposedly the tranny fluid breaks down the old oil and cleans out the engine. Maybe Dave knows about this?
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Old 12-01-2015, 08:03 PM   #274
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I read that thread on Mike Learys SNAFU. Ill be changing my own oil. . It looks like an oil change should be an annual maintenance item regardless of mileage. Ill make sure that happens from now on. I think Im pretty much good to go for our trip west. Ooooooooooh I shouldnt have said that
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Old 12-03-2015, 06:46 AM   #275
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I always fill my oil filters before installing them if possible.
My MH is gas but I do own a Mercedes 190d. I have learned modern diesel fuel is low or lower sulphur than before, so always use an fuel additive. The multiple upsides to this is the one I use(Dieselkleen) cleans the injectors, and has a cetane booster that improves gas mileage. I have done multiple tests and have proved that adding it gets me a 10% improvement. This more than pays for the additive.
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Old 12-03-2015, 07:01 AM   #276
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http://powerservice.com/psp_product/...-cetane-boost/

I also use Dieselpurge once a year to keep the injectors super clean.
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Old 12-03-2015, 09:26 AM   #277
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Thank you for the info Key. 10% improvement is significant. Ill get a good idea on fuel mileage on this trip coming up. Fresh oil, clean filters (air and fuel) and just had the valves adjusted. Im really interested to find out what Im getting. Just as a reference. I was getting between 10 and 12 mpg in April on the same trip to Colorado.
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Old 12-03-2015, 09:50 AM   #278
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Thank you for the info Key. 10% improvement is significant. Ill get a good idea on fuel mileage on this trip coming up. Fresh oil, clean filters (air and fuel) and just had the valves adjusted. Im really interested to find out what Im getting. Just as a reference. I was getting between 10 and 12 mpg in April on the same trip to Colorado.
Mike,

You definitely want to run a fuel additive. Low sulfur fuel is not good on the earlier engines. Another advantage to using a fuel additive is it quiets the injectors so they are not as noisy. Addtives make a huge difference in the sound level of my 2001 F250 SD with the 7.3 turbo. Like night and day difference.

I use this stuff and have been quite pleased with it. I always buy by the case. Prices seem to fluctuate so I always look for the lowest price before buying.

Brad
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Old 12-03-2015, 10:18 AM   #279
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Will do. I certainly trust and appreciate the info. Ill use it on this trip to start with.
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Old 12-03-2015, 10:30 AM   #280
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Yes Brad, I notice a difference in noise levels too.
I liken it to the change from leaded to unleaded gas and the changes that wrought to engines.
It is a win-win because not only does it clean and lube the injectors, it gives you more mpg!
My 2.2L is non turbo, and only came from the factory with 73 ponies... And at 30 years and 220k miles I am sure some have escaped by now! I have owned it 6 years, and put almost 40k on it since. I didn't know about the additives until I read about it on the Mercedes Diesel forums. Those guys are obsessive about their diesels!
I was getting about 30mpg about town, and as soon as I started adding it it jumped to 33mpg. Best I have seen was a 250 Mile trip with fresh oil, freshly Diesel-purged injectors and additive where it knocked down 38mpg.
I use Dieselkleen because its available everywhere here and buy it by the gallon(about $15)which lasts me a couple of years. It actually states on the container that it pays for itself.
Not sure where you live but if you are travelling in colder climates, an antigel might be wise.
Looking forward to hearing your experience
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