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Old 09-28-2015, 06:38 AM   #181
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I need to figure out where the power side or "always hot" side of that relay originates. It very well may not be on the lighting circuit. If thats the case then all Id need to do is repower the switch either from an ignition circuit or some aux circuit, then they would act completely independent like yours.
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Old 09-28-2015, 07:03 AM   #182
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Reminds me of "Close Encounters of the Third Kind"

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Old 09-28-2015, 07:26 AM   #183
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Hehehehe, little bit eh? I have so little knowledge of LEDs its hard to gauge how bright they are going to be from their spec sheet. Now I need to figure out how I want them aimed. But they sure will help when pulling into state parks after dark and there are a few miles of winding unlit roads to get to the campground. We've had that experience on the road and its no fun.
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Old 09-28-2015, 07:30 AM   #184
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LEDs certainly have made great strides the last few years. I'll be converting just about every bulb in my Argosy to LED before it ever hits the road.

When we first got the 310 we picked it up at dusk on a Saturday. Drove to the closest gas station and on the way found that only one lower beam headlight was working. From the gas station to the local campground where we planned to stay was only a few miles so we headed that way. By the time we got to the camp ground gate that single low beam had gone out. I ended up using the spotlight on the roof to light the way to the parking spot. Made for an interesting drive!

Brad
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Old 09-28-2015, 02:03 PM   #185
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Quote:
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I need to figure out where the power side or "always hot" side of that relay originates. It very well may not be on the lighting circuit. If thats the case then all Id need to do is repower the switch either from an ignition circuit or some aux circuit, then they would act completely independent like yours.
on mine, the always hot side of the relay goes directly to the Motor battery side of the isolator.
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Old 09-28-2015, 02:29 PM   #186
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Thanks Peter, I know mine heads that direction. Ill check it out. If thats the case then the only draw on the headlight circuit would be the switch which is nill
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Old 10-01-2015, 09:33 AM   #187
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Had a strange thing happen when we got home from camping last weekend. I was checking all the levels on the control panel after we got done unloading and my fresh water tank showed that it was empty. Ive been keeping track of how much fresh water we use on a 2 or 3 day trip, just a rough estimate. I was surprised it was empty. It occurred to me that I had seen some water dripping near the rear outside storage drivers side while we were camping but at the time thought it was just some condensate from the AC. Well went out and looked again in the drive and it was still dripping and thought uh oh, somethings up. Went to snooping and found that a plastic plug in the fresh water tank on the wall side near the bottom was leaking. I had to dismantle the queen bed and remove the deck it sits on to get to the plug. Gained access and reached down to see if the plug was loose with my hand only, and the square wrench end of the plug was broken off and barely hanging on to the rest of the plug. I just touched it and it broke completely off and what water was left in the tank came rushing out onto the floor next to the tank. I have no idea when or how that plug got damaged, I would guess it was over tightened at some point. Either when new or along its life sometime but what made it fail now is a mystery. Got everything cleaned up and was able to use an easy out to get the threaded portion of the plug out......thank god. I did NOT want to have to pull that tank. Replaced it with a brass plug and no drips, no leaks, no mess. Odd though. Wonder why it failed how and when it did. I wonder if freezing has anything to do with it? Dunno. Everything is good to go though but still kinda puzzled........

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Old 10-01-2015, 12:24 PM   #188
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Just a note, I was reading about what type of thread sealer to use on the plug when I reinstalled. I guess on polyethylene tanks you are supposed to dry fit the threaded fittings. I had planned on using teflon tape or sealant but from what I read its a dry fit. Good to know.

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Old 10-01-2015, 01:24 PM   #189
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Just a note, I was reading about what type of thread sealer to use on the plug when I reinstalled. I guess on polyethylene tanks you are supposed to dry fit the threaded fittings. I had planned on using teflon tape or sealant but from what I read its a dry fit. Good to know.

Mike
I didn't know that, I believe I used teflon tape on my water tank. Fortunately I've not filled it with water yet so I still have time to see what I might have done wrong!

Brad
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Old 10-14-2015, 03:44 PM   #190
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Been working on the cab heat the last couple days, in prep for winter travel in Dec.. Got all my push pull cable controls adjusted and lubed and made sure the heater valve was opening and closing properly. On to dealing with Airstreams design for the passenger side heating.......not sure what they were thinking but they didnt think very long about it. On my 310 there is a separate push pull cable that controls a duct flap behind the kick board in front of the passenger seat. Two holes cut in the kick board and no duct work, the heat just dumps out of the plenum behind the board and I guess they just hoped a bit would travel through the holes out to the passenger seat. So even when the cable pulled the flap all the way open there was little to no heat making it out from behind the kick board. Is that the factory design on these?????

I ended up making a duct tube out of some reflectix that I had on hand, big enough to slip over the duct flap mechanism and still allow it to open and shut all the way. Ended up being a 4" diameter tube. I secured it the best I could to the plenum with duct tape and it flexed enough to run it out through the kick board.
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I stapled the reflectix to the kick board and made sure it hadnt collapsed while getting the kick board reinstalled, tested and BINGO, got great air flow now blowing straight out to the passenger seat.

Ordered a 4" vent cover with damper and about a 3" extension that slipped into the reflectix.

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Muy bueno, worked out great. So are all the Classics designed this way? It was certainly an after thought on my 310 or had been modified by some previous owner.


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Old 10-14-2015, 04:09 PM   #191
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....On to dealing with Airstreams design for the passenger side heating.......not sure what they were thinking but they didnt think very long about it. On my 310 there is a separate push pull cable that controls a duct flap behind the kick board in front of the passenger seat. Two holes cut in the kick board and no duct work, the heat just dumps out of the plenum behind the board and I guess they just hoped a bit would travel through the holes out to the passenger seat. So even when the cable pulled the flap all the way open there was little to no heat making it out from behind the kick board. Is that the factory design on these?????
I don't believe so. Certainly not by 1989, but I am guessing yours has been modified by some PI (same as a PO, but with more negative IQ connotations). Mine has a wide grille about the same size as the flap behind it, and that is set in a particle board partition in front of the flap. What happens is that leaks from the windshield will saturate the PB and it starts to disintegrate, and I presume someone decided the holes would work, since maybe the grille was rusty, or they destroyed it in removing the board, or wanted less hot air coming out in the footwell.
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Old 10-14-2015, 04:23 PM   #192
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That makes a lot more sense
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Old 10-14-2015, 08:23 PM   #193
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My 280 is set up just like yours. I guess that was one of Airstream's better ideas back in the early classic years.
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Old 10-14-2015, 08:57 PM   #194
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My 280 is set up just like yours. I guess that was one of Airstream's better ideas back in the early classic years.
Dan... I assume you mean like Mike's 1982 holes and not like my 1989 grille?
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Old 10-15-2015, 01:04 AM   #195
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Yes, sorry I wasn't clear. Mike's coach and mine are both 1982 vintage and they share many of the same fine features. Fortunately it doesn't get quite as cold out west so heater mods are pretty low on my things to do list.
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Old 10-15-2015, 04:04 AM   #196
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Well Dan that mod worked out pretty good. The Reflectix had just enough flex in it to shape it around the vent flap and hold its tube shape to poke out the kick board. (and I had it left over from cutting pieces to cover the windows). Now at least the DW wont be complaining about being cold going down the road. Maybe.

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Old 10-15-2015, 05:28 AM   #197
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My 310 has GM 82 title, but the Airstream vin is 83. What amazes me is that Airstream decided to make changes to the 310 model sometime in 83, by using the new dash, dog house, battery compartment and the heater outlet panel. Normally you will only see those changes when models change
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Old 10-15-2015, 05:34 AM   #198
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The more I learn about the '83 compared to the '82 there were quite a few changes. Many upgrades in my opinion. Dont the '83s also have the slide out battery tray? Do the '83s have the tambor doors on the overhead cabinets?
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Old 10-15-2015, 05:47 AM   #199
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The more I learn about the '83 compared to the '82 there were quite a few changes. Many upgrades in my opinion. Dont the '83s also have the slide out battery tray? Do the '83s have the tambor doors on the overhead cabinets?
yes they have the slide out battery tray, which I prefer. Tambour in Front and wood doors in the rear bedroom. They just ran out of stuff and started to use the new.
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Old 10-15-2015, 06:30 AM   #200
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On my '82, I have overhead cabinets on both sides in the rear plus the one on the very back. Tambour doors on all. It was originally the rear lounge model but I converted to an east west queen. Had to for sleeping with a funky back. Kids are up and gone also so not too worried about the extra seating. Sure would like to have the wooden overhead cabinets like the 345......
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