Magnet18's 1983 310

[Magnet18]

part 2

[cole3444]

Magnet18,
I was wondering if you took the vacuum system out of your 310. I am trying to figure out how it works in my 310, can't find a switch so I was wondering if the hose activates the vacuum when the hose is plugged into the fitting on the wall. Anyone can chime in on this if you have any clue on how it operates. Thanks Jim

[Magnet18]

Originally Posted by Isuzusweet

There could be water in the pump area due to the way the water inlet hose is fastened to the water tank. The inlet hose is on the outside of the water tank inlet pipe, instead of the inside of the water tank inlet pipe; so here's what happens if you fill your tank; the water runs down the inlet hose and if there is a poor connection to the inlet pipe of the tank, it will leak out, (at least that what happened to mine). I did try to better fasten the inlet hose with limited luck.
The way to make sure that water gets into the tank and not around it is to cut a hose end off and thread the hose directly into the tank, and then fill it. I have two sections of hose, one with a funnel if the potable water fill hose is too big to thread in, and one with a hose end that I can attach to my garden hose.

That could be and probably is also something to look at, but not this time. We're talking about a week after it was last filled I noticed this. I saw drips coming from at least the low point drain on the high pressure side... I forget if it was hot or cold. Upside, didn't make a huge mess, and the wood under there is still solid.

I do have a long piece of hose and an adapter so I can feed it all the way into the tank and bypass that span between the outside and the tank

Your airbags should be automatic......do you mean your air compressor switch?

Yea, that is indeed what I meant. I guess it runs more than just the bags. Has a swell little adapter coming off it for filling tires and stuff too.
One of the wires burned out because airstream used wires too small to carry the load of the pump, need to reroute with thicker wire, or add a relay.

Your front door hinges could very well be pooched. I have done mine, not an easy job; just make sure you make a backer plate behind the hinges with tapped holes for the hinge screws, so you never have to remove the interior again. Also remember that the hinge with U for upper hinge is actually the lower hinge and L for lower hinge is actually the top hinge.

I think the hinges are OK, thankfully. I will take a close look. What I notice the striker plate wiggles and is loose, therefore when you try to close the door it moves all the way back (towards inside). A firm push from outside closes it just fine, inside you just can't get it that last little bit. And the plate on the door that has the handle has a crack from years of trying. The adjustment screws are stripped of course. Tig weld? Epoxy? We'll see. The right thing to do it probably get at that area so I can put in a new doorbell switch (the current one works intermittent), and fix the opened/closed sensor for the deadbolt. but that looks like a pain.

280 miles eh! Wow, thank God I bought a diesel.

Yea, we filled up about every 150, needle hits 1/16th at 180. I got good at maneuvering though, trial by fire. Most places don't have nice easy pull throughs for gas, had to hit at least 3 regular pump islands. I lived, no backing up needed. There's plenty of room up under there for aux tanks, I'll make an upgrade of some sort, would like 500 miles, so I can hop between easy-access flying-j's!

Diesel would have been nice, but oh well, can't have everything. On the upside, I have enough horsepower to blow down the interstate at 80 with the tanks full and the jeep in tow, engine barely breaking a sweat!

This engine was at least a $12,000 install job by the invoices I found, under warranty for 2.5 more years I think, it's not going anywhere soon. I'll swap in a diesel if it gives out after another 150,000 miles. Only 144,000 to go!

If you want to see a subfloor horror show about the pump area:

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f311...me-106269.html

Post 40 is about the hinges:

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f311...s-97332-3.html

Cheers
Sidekick Tony

Thanks for the posts, always good to know what lurks behind the riveted walls!

I was careful to check the problem areas on this one, fortunately my sub-floor is in good shape I think... Good enough, anyway. Definitely ain't going through that anytime soon. Maybe when my foot goes through the floor.

[Magnet18]

Originally Posted by cole3444

Magnet18,
I was wondering if you took the vacuum system out of your 310. I am trying to figure out how it works in my 310, can't find a switch so I was wondering if the hose activates the vacuum when the hose is plugged into the fitting on the wall. Anyone can chime in on this if you have any clue on how it operates. Thanks Jim

I didn't take it out, but yes, when the hose is stuck in it switches the motor on.

I have the original manual to my vacuum unit as well. Not on me, but next time I'm at the airstream I can take pictures.

[Magnet18]

Lastly for tonight, I had been digging around every now and then trying to find the first picture I ever saw of one of these motorhomes (thus alerting me to their existence)

I finally found it today, congratulations Mayco, yours was the picture that sparked the fire. Right here on this thread http://www.airforums.com/forums/f311...er-171428.html


(don't know why it took me weeks to find it, I posted in it!)

[mayco]

Hehehehe, yaaaaaaa that's a good spot right there. Lyons Colorado, small little town with the campground right on the St Vrain river. Beautiful!

[mayco]

Originally Posted by cole3444

Magnet18,
I was wondering if you took the vacuum system out of your 310. I am trying to figure out how it works in my 310, can't find a switch so I was wondering if the hose activates the vacuum when the hose is plugged into the fitting on the wall. Anyone can chime in on this if you have any clue on how it operates. Thanks Jim

Cole, on my '82 the switch is just above the wall plate where you insert the hose. Next to the bathroom door.

[tevake]

Yep, Mike and Lynn's travels and adventures are an inspiration for sure.
Not with out challenges but many more smiles had.

Nice looking coach you found, nice first trip too, congrats.
Great touring machines!

Cheers Richard

[ontheroadagn]

Hey Magnet18,
I see Q-jet carb, and old intake and exhaust manifolds in pictures. What fuel system and (I assume) headers went back on? I have a slight exhaust leak at start up that goes away after warms up. Exhaust gasket starting to leak. Thinking about going with headers when I go to fix it. I'm not sure what headers to look for?
Thanks, Dave

[Magnet18]

Edelbrock intake manifold, other than that, I'll be honest, no idea. Looked at so many things and learned so much about this thing so fast that I probably asked, mentally checked the "not a problem" box, and promptly forgot. I'll try to remember to snap some pics.

I do know the previous owner hand honed all the mating surfaces while the shop worked on the engine. He knew what he was doing, no leaks.

[Magnet18]

Found the leak, this guy here. Guessing it is the hoseclamp area that has been modified, rather than the stock plastic.

Plumbing is not my forte. The hose clamp is not getting any tighter. Suggestions for an easy fix?

[Smartstream]

That old tubing is marginal at best but the fittings are really prone to failure. PEX tubing is the current best choice used with brass fittings. I don't know if fittings are still available for the old tubing.

The best suggestion is to replace the entire system. You can buy a good crimping tool for $50-$75 and the PEX and fittings are reasonably priced. You can even buy color coded PEX to identify hot and cold water. Pex is easy to work with, just requires a little planning. When you are finished you will know so much more about your coach. That education is priceless.

[Isuzusweet]

Totally agree with Dan; the leaks are just starting with that old plumbing. Not too bad on the drivers side to replace everything, with just the shower being the most difficult. There should be access to the shower tap once you pull the icebox freezer, should you have it.

I used the Wirsbo/Uponer PEX-A system myself as it seemed to me to be the most foolproof/leakproof system. You should be able to rent the tool from the PEX -A supplier for a nominal charge. You will have to go PEX-A to brass fitings for some connections, but I didn't find it a problem.

Tip: try and construct as much of the system before installation, as working in tight spots can be trying.

Cheers
Sidekick Tony

[Magnet18]

How do you get the drawers out in the kitchen? Tried for 15 minutes, I'm stumped, trying to install some latches but I can't get a drill in there


re: plumbing, will upgrade the whole system eventually, but right now I'm just going to patch the single, tiny leak from the previous owners plumbing, and limp everything else on for another year or so.

Steve recommended another type of clamp, so I have that arriving today, and if that doesn't do it i'll replace that clear tubing.

Has anyone ever sketched up a drawing of how all the plumbing is run in a 310?

[bkahler]

Here's a couple of links to the 310 service manual and the 310 owners manual.

I believe there are drawings of how the plumbing is arranged. Same for the electrical. None of it is overly detailed but there's enough information to help.

The drawers do come out but it's been so long I don't remember how

Brad

[mayco]

Those drawers can be a real pain, the slides are cheap and they come loose in the back. Try lifting on he front of the drawer while you pull outward. I put new glides on mine, big improvement.

[Magnet18]

Originally Posted by mayco

Those drawers can be a real pain, the slides are cheap and they come loose in the back. Try lifting on he front of the drawer while you pull outward. I put new glides on mine, big improvement.

That was the trick, thanks! Always something simple that holds me up.

I agree, new slides would be good. Someday. Pics in your thread?

Originally Posted by bkahler

Here's a couple of links to the 310 service manual and the 310 owners manual.

I believe there are drawings of how the plumbing is arranged. Same for the electrical. None of it is overly detailed but there's enough information to help.

The drawers do come out but it's been so long I don't remember how

Brad

Thanks! Section D has it.
What confused me still confuses me though, which is where it shows one line running back to the city water inlet, I have two running that way.



Also fixed the sagging curbside closet drawer, not sure why there was no support there

It's a redneck fix, but there's plenty of down-force and no lateral, should be fine

[Magnet18]

Originally Posted by Magnet18

What confused me still confuses me though, which is where it shows one line running back to the city water inlet, I have two running that way.

Nevermind, no I don't, ignore me



Despite a better clamp and aquarium sealant for good measure, the pipe still leaks. Woke up to a puddle of ice/slush down there. Time to install a heat source and redo all the plumbing down there.

Tonight

$250 of pex supplies and some Starbucks coffee, here we go

[mayco]

Originally Posted by Magnet18

That was the trick, thanks! Always something simple that holds me up.

I agree, new slides would be good. Someday. Pics in your thread?



Thanks! Section D has it.
What confused me still confuses me though, which is where it shows one line running back to the city water inlet, I have two running that way.



Also fixed the sagging curbside closet drawer, not sure why there was no support there

It's a redneck fix, but there's plenty of down-force and no lateral, should be fine

Here are the slides I used
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

[Swillv8]

Pec is pretty damn nice stuff, recently replumbed my entire house 2800sqft 2.5storey with basement, 2 kitchens, 3.5 bathrooms, 2 laundry set-ups, would have sold the house before replacing a tap if I had to solder copper lol