Lost rpm, fuel, oil, water gauges in storage?

[outofcontrol]

So far I've checked that everything is grounded. (and that it's waaaaaay easier to get to the backs of the gauges by unscrewing the panel and tilting it back than standing on your head with a flashlight).
I' was kind of hoping that I'd find a loose connection or something obvious. I thought I could just start wiggling things around until it came back. nothing. I'm glad they all went out at once, makes me think it's an easy fix.
BTW, what a mess. I think it started out as a mess back there, then however many owners sticking there hands in there...sloppy taps, loose wires, mystery wires, etc.
I just have never dealt with gauges. Is there a fuse?

Thanks! -Kevin

[outofcontrol]

finally found my manuals and the fuse diagram (can't read fuse block) and the "guages" fuse was blown. hopefully it doesn't blow again quickly.

cheers!
-Kevin

[GlenCoombe]

The fact that the fuse was blown should be the first indication of a crossed or grounded circuit.

Take a look at the connector on the head lamp switch. Mine was melted and caused a connection that shorted out the dash lights.

Now the fun begins. The job Airstream did on the dash supports that the coaches where put together by technicians who spent more time assembling mobile homes than the high quality that Airstream alluded to in their advertising.

Given the opportunity in restoring an AS Moho I'd be going with a complete redo of the dash. Check this out for a look at what can be done.

[outofcontrol]

I like this one I found while searching for an answer:
http://www.airforums.com/forums/f311...ver-21077.html
there are 3 taps into the large yellow wire off the keyed ingnition switch. just hanging out there with exposed bare wire. I wiggled them and some other relay on the other side of the column started clicking. that relay is just hanging there by the wires. I have no idea what it's for. If I fixed every single issue with this coach, I'd be building a whole new one. I'm just trying to keep up with the important stuff for now.

[outofcontrol]

Well, problem not solved.
it's dark out, and I was moving the rig. I think the fuse blew when I turned on the lights. I'm going to sacrifice another fuse to be sure. Now that I think about it, the dimmer switch always made the needles jump around...

thanks for the tip.
-Kevin

[GlenCoombe]

Kevin, keep the same value fuse, don't be tempted to increase it.

Sounds like the rheostat portion of the headlight switch that controls the brightness of the dash lights. Start at the switch and work outward.

A good place to start would be with the dimmer set all the way out on the dimmest value and then increase to the fuse tolerance.

Let us know what you find.

[outofcontrol]

Well, I started looking up the part for the headlight switch and it looked really really familiar. Then I remembered the I replaced the switch 3 yrs ago in an attempt to get the dimmer to work better. Also (it all started coming back to me) that the needles would kind of jump around while you adjusted the rheostat (dimmer).
So my guess is that one of the backlight wires is touching/rubbing one of the signal wires?

I'm going to have to pick up more fuses, because I'm all out now. Is this the right way to trouble shoot this? I'm planning next to trace the dimmer/backlight wires from the headlight switch to the gauges, hoping to find a short? is there an easier way? a more technical way?

By the way, thanks for the ideas... it helps to have some sanity to bounce some ideas off.

-Kevin

[bkahler]

Originally Posted by outofcontrol

Well, I started looking up the part for the headlight switch and it looked really really familiar. Then I remembered the I replaced the switch 3 yrs ago in an attempt to get the dimmer to work better. Also (it all started coming back to me) that the needles would kind of jump around while you adjusted the rheostat (dimmer).
So my guess is that one of the backlight wires is touching/rubbing one of the signal wires?

I'm going to have to pick up more fuses, because I'm all out now. Is this the right way to trouble shoot this? I'm planning next to trace the dimmer/backlight wires from the headlight switch to the gauges, hoping to find a short? is there an easier way? a more technical way?

By the way, thanks for the ideas... it helps to have some sanity to bounce some ideas off.

-Kevin

Kevin,

Don't feel alone, you're not the only one that is having problems with the gauges. My oil pressure sender stopped working and replacing the sending unit didn't fix it. My tach needle jumps around which likely indicates a loose connection and the voltage meter reads low when the lights are on indicating most likely a failing contact in one of the switches.

I think you're on the right track in looking for loose connections and frayed wires. Thats where I'm gonig to start looking and then proceed from there.

You should also be aware that all of the dash wiring goes through the ignition switch and it appears that the total amp load that is running through that contact is greater than the rating of the switch. One forum member had his switch fail because of this and I think that is the probable cause for my own low dash voltage readings.

I don't know of any better way to troubleshoot the dash wiring that what you're doing right now.

Good luck!

Brad

[Mike Leary]

I agree with Brad, the wiring under the dash is crazed, and a hamhand previous owner makes it worse. When I turn on my markers, the temp gauge jumps 10 degrees. If I was not having so much fun on the road, I'd rip the dash apart, also.

[ScrapIrony-2]

Yep
Anyone who has pulled the dash loose knows that the wiring is a nightmare...you kinda pray that when you put the board back up that nothing happens...problem is, that you pulled the dash loose for a reason...a wiring problem...oh, yeah, a problem that well-wishing and duct/black tape won't fix...so far, we're still running, and that keeps me happy...but worried...mike

[GlenCoombe]

With nothing but time on ones hands this rats nest could be made right. Just look at what Chaplin Kent did with his "Chummy" and you know it's possible.

The main problem is that you have to map everything prior to taking it apart.

So if you do the job why not replace the fuse block in the glove box while you're at it?

I'm going to replace my steering wheel this winter and think that may be a good time to drop the column for better access to the mess. How deep may depend upon how much time I think I have to devote to rewiring vs. how long I can afford to be off the road.