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Old 10-23-2010, 10:31 AM   #1
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Leveling Jacks

I recently installed Power Gear leveling jacks on my 79 MOHO/28' Airstream. It was a major undertaking as we had to pull the fuel tank and propane tank to gain working access to the frame. Mounting the jacks was not to bad with a few support brackets we fabricated. The pump and resorivoir mounted somewhat easy and power connections where straight forward. The toughest problem was the controller. I bought the used parts on ebay and the controller did not work. I researched many blogs and sites and found out you can do the same work as the controller with momentary switches and relays. I built a control replacment panel that has the same functions for extending and retracting the jacks both rear independently and front as a unit since my kit was sit up that way.
Recently we went our our first outing with the moho and the jacks did thier job, set up in a few minutes verses hand screw jacks.
If I was to do this again I would not use Power Gear as they do not communicate with you unless you are a dealer and I had to buy any parts thru a dealer who normally charge retail plus plus. If anyone is interested in this I can post photos and more descriptions of this. This conversion is not for the weak hearted and more for the person who does most of thier own fabrication and work.
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Old 10-24-2010, 11:34 AM   #2
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1977 28' Argosy 28
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Hi Chris
I am going to be moving the jacks from sob mh to my Argosy.The wheel bases are different so I am wondering where to place the jacks on the frame. How or where did you place them?
Thanks
Jo
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Old 10-24-2010, 08:18 PM   #3
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I would like to move mine back behind the drive wheels, in front of the tag and a bit wider so that it could be used to level a little bit. I would like to see where you placed yours and how you did it.
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Old 10-24-2010, 10:15 PM   #4
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1982 28' Airstream 280
Port Angeles , Washington
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Originally Posted by Gypsy Jo View Post
Hi Chris
I am going to be moving the jacks from sob mh to my Argosy.The wheel bases are different so I am wondering where to place the jacks on the frame. How or where did you place them?
Thanks
Jo
I put HWH jacks under our 280 and if you go to the HWH site they have mounts for the P-30. They are a direct bolt on unit. I had to drill a few mounting holes and they fit great. They were about $200 - $250 for four mounts if I remember correctly. The front jacks are just behind the A-frame where the frame makes a little S turn and the rear jacks are right behind the axle.

Cheers, Dan
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Old 10-25-2010, 09:45 AM   #5
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With your rebuilding knowledge of power gear hydraulics maybe you can describe why they make the front work together rather than separate. I have found on very uneven ground when I deploy front then rear as handbook says, if I have to level rear by adding more to a single rear jack, one of the front doesn't touch, defeating the stabilizing effect. does yours do this or is there a malfunctioning valve?
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Old 10-25-2010, 11:08 AM   #6
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1982 28' Airstream 280
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With your rebuilding knowledge of power gear hydraulics maybe you can describe why they make the front work together rather than separate. I have found on very uneven ground when I deploy front then rear as handbook says, if I have to level rear by adding more to a single rear jack, one of the front doesn't touch, defeating the stabilizing effect. does yours do this or is there a malfunctioning valve?
If you exceed the length of the rams one won't reach the ground and the rigidity of the frame will be tested. You need to find more level ground or put some blocks under the short jack.

You could tie the front jacks together by connecting one valve to a T and then to both jacks. Plug off the other front valve and don't use. You will be limited in travel in front as one jack goes down the other will go up as necessary but if you pump enough oil to fill both jacks they will both extend and not have room to balance each other. You will just have to experiment until you get them set the way you want. I have thought about doing this but for now I just look for a level spot.

Cheers, Dan
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Old 10-25-2010, 11:29 AM   #7
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Dan,
Thanks for the info. The mounts on my sob are welded to the frame so having bolt on would be great. I need the springs also the hwh site probably has those too.
Jo
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Old 10-25-2010, 09:17 PM   #8
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Gypsy Jo
I locate my jacks as follows on my 28 foot 79 MoHo. Front just back from the front wheels for clearance from suspension, exhaust, propane tank and misc items. I did not have much choice up front. I have adaquate clearance for front jacks. I did have to build an adapter plate but that is basic metal fabrication. I did drop the propane tank and gave it a good sanding and repainted it. The rear jacks are just behind the rear wheels on the frame. I did have to drop the fuel tank to work out the plumbing and related installation at the same time I cleaned and painted the fuel tank. I did make adapter plates for the rear. One thing I did figure out is if you overstend the air bags it has a tendancy to fowl up the rear air bag bars, I only jack up the rear just above ride height, lesson learned from experience. I do have photos but have not figured how to post photos, if someone would tell me I can post photos.
DaveFL
I wondered about that also. My research is as follows. I also have a diesel pusher and it only uses 3 jacks, two for the rear and one for the front. It seems the rear can handle the side to side action and the front is like a monopod. This seems to work fine. The pump assemly that I have has 4 ports, two for the back one for both front jacks in unison and a dump port for retracking. My mo is if I have leveling issue on the front jacks I will carry a few 12 x 12 wood blocks and adjust the odd side to get the front jacks to work from a common point. I did see a system with 5 ports but I had to work with what I had. I normally do the rear first getting it set then bring the fronts down to see how uneven the ground is and add blocks as needed to balance the front so it extends balanced. I only do the rear first to not overextend the air bags. I suggest you see what is best for your particular installation.
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Old 10-26-2010, 09:34 AM   #9
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No air bags in my rear end only leaf springs and a torsion bar, do have the front ones inside coil springs and front torsion bar. When I talked to PO he said front used first to prevent torque cracking front windows. I now do front just till they touch ground, then the back making sure each side touches then do the front again. With one button for front I figured they must have an equilizing valve to put equal pressure on both, it must not adjust if back lift changes one side. When we were at AS factory I met an AS'er there to change out cracked front windows in his diesel pusher. Said it would be the third time they have been replaced.
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Old 10-27-2010, 02:05 PM   #10
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Chris
Try this to learn how to post pics, http://www.airforums.com/f138...ics44928.html

On the jacks, the mh I am taking them off of is a 30' but it has a shorter wheel base than my Argosy 28'. Just wanting to make sure that I won't put jacks to far apart or if that even makes a difference.Stress on the frame or anything else I might need to worry about.
I need to drop my lpg tank and paint it too but right now I have too many other things going on.
thanks
Jo
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Old 10-29-2010, 12:44 PM   #11
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Gypsy JO
I suggest you get as close to the front and rear wheels as you can reasonable as the frame is desiged to take axle loading from these points. I never take the wheels off the ground with the jacks normally. I just posted some photos on the site under Ranchmink, leveling jacks as a FYI. I did use emeron on the LPG/fuel tank as its a tough paint that will take more abuse. Let me know if can't find the photos I can send them to you.
DaveFL
I agree on the pusher, I have Safari and have a mono pod jack up front which keeps the front always in align. I have been told the same on windshields. My classic 79 does not appear to flex much in the front.
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Old 11-02-2010, 09:55 AM   #12
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Chris,
Saw the pics. Thanks.I have not heard of emeron where do you get it at?
Jo
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Old 02-18-2011, 08:26 PM   #13
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Imron

Any auto paint supply place can sell it to you. It is a two part paint like an epoxy. Motorcycles like it because it does not care about gas spills. Expensive, but tough.
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