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Old 06-16-2006, 05:42 PM   #29
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I found it!!

Was in Tractor Supply yesterday and found the perfect LEDs for the tail lights. They are submersible boat trailer lights, but when you take off the lens there is the led plate that fits perfectly in the motorhome tail lights. It is only screwed in and comes right out. It also includes the white license plate illumination lights which I removed to use elsewhere. They cost $18.95 each, but you can buy a pair cheaper.

http://www.mytscstore.com/detail.asp...productID=8858
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Old 06-16-2006, 06:47 PM   #30
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Cooperhawk

How about a center to center measurement on the screw holes since Tractor Supply does not post specs on the light.

At first glance they look like a direct replacement for the trailer lights. Hope the measurement comes in to conferm that.
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Old 06-16-2006, 08:01 PM   #31
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Talking

Sorry. I had to get off line before as severe weather was moving in. I will get you the measurements. For the Motorhome I will remove the reflector pan and drill four small holes in the light molding frame and attach the led to the rear of the frame centered in the opening. then re-install the original red lens. The led cluster is small enough that it does not interfere with the red lens mounting holes but the circle is identical with the circle on the original lens. The lens that comes with the light cannot be used as the Airstream lens is curved and it is not. It looks like a very good match and when I applied 12 v. to it, it really lit up and when I applied voltage to the brake/turn lead, it REALLY lit up. Glencoombe, it looks like this is what we wanted.
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Old 06-16-2006, 08:16 PM   #32
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Okay, went out to my shop and got one of the lights. The red lens that comes with the light is not curved. From screw hole to screw hole it measures 3 and 3/4 inches. The LED is rectangular and measures 3 and 5/8 wide and 3 and 1/16 high screw hole to screw hole. The LED is 1 inch thick at it's thickest point. There are 12 diodes in total. They all brighten when brake/turn voltage is added.
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Old 06-17-2006, 12:39 AM   #33
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WOW. Good job coop'

that looks like easy. and cheaper too. almost "bolt on" or "plug and play".

-K
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Old 06-17-2006, 06:19 AM   #34
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I believe that the problem has been solved. If you look at this post and at the other current LED thread running we now have two options...very cool indeed.
I'm going to visit a TS store this week as I travel in NC.
Coop' how is the brightness? Are these red LED's? Need to see a post with side by side comparrison if possible.
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Old 06-17-2006, 09:15 AM   #35
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Haven't done the installation yet as I need to procure the signal flasher first but I hooked them up to 12 volt and they were very bright and yes they are red. Looks like a very easy install.
Tell me again what signal flasher I need?

There are also four white LEDs on the side to illuminate the license plate and they are just screwed on and come right off. I would guess they could be used in a step light or somewhere else.
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Old 06-17-2006, 04:47 PM   #36
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Talking Installed!

Went to Carquest this AM and purchased the digital led flasher. I may not need it however as they work okay without it so far. Probably enough draw from the front signals and mirror signals. Time will tell.

I installed the led's. I had to trim the cornor off of one but otherwise they went right in. I tried a small screw on each cornor to fasten them but that held the lens away from the frame far enough to leak, so I used small pop rivets and fastened them behind the light frame. All are assembled now and work great.

They are brighter than the 1157 bulb lights and when the brake or flashers light up it hurt my eyes to work on them so I had to turn them off to finish the job. They look nice.
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Old 06-17-2006, 04:51 PM   #37
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additionally

My computer won't let me edit for some reason. the top picture is of one led wired for clearance and one for brake just to see the contrast. Number three and four are the old versus the new lit up as clearance lights only. Quite a difference.
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Old 06-18-2006, 09:08 AM   #38
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LED sources

I was at a local (Big Boy Toy Store), (Fleet Farm) last night and found the Blazer lights there as well. Same price as Tractor Supply. Bought two more. At Car Quest they wanted $75.00 for a set of similar lights. Twice as much.
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Old 06-20-2006, 09:23 AM   #39
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White LEDs

When I bought the last two tail lights, I bought the more expensive model that says 7 function just to see the difference. Well, the difference is that along with the side illumination lights, (which turned out to be red by the way), there was a larger array of white LEDs that lit the liscense plate. I removed them and have epoxied them into my door light. They give a lot of light, but if I need more, I can still use the 12 volt bulb that was there originally.
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Old 06-20-2006, 10:37 AM   #40
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I purchased 4, 61 lamp LEDs from LED-R-US.com and just installed one in the left outside fixture.
I opened the light by turning it on my lath and removed the board. Once the board was out I filed flats on all 4 sides just down to the copper foil on the board. This may have been a bit of over filing as I then had to insulate the edges of the board with electrical tape to insure the board would not short to the housing. I placed the original metal fixture in a vise just grabbing about 3/16 of the edge. Then used a small ball peen hammer to flatten the inside edge of the fixture on all 4 sides in about 1/4 in. The fixture then accepted the board. I padded out the sides of the board with additional tape to just get a snug fit with the board recessed about 3/16 inch. This was enough to clear the lens when placed over the board. I secured the board into the fixture with contact cement and once that set I put a dab of hot glue between the board and the flat edge of the fixture, to act as a standoff, to insure the board could not come forward it the contact cement ever gave way. Do not rely on hot glue alone, as from my kayak building I have learned, the best feature of hot glue is that it does not work over time.
I have only installed one light because I was not overly impressed with the side projetion and want to see things tonight before I go any further.
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Old 06-20-2006, 12:34 PM   #41
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Looks like we have 3 ways to skin this cat now.

See, all it takes is a little tinkering.

I'm wondering how these bare curcuit boards hold up to the elements?

Howie, is there a protective layer on the board? I don't know about the rest of the country, but we in the PNW have about 9 months of drizzle, and moisture will get in there, no matter what you do.

Those water-proof boat trailer lights are obviously water tight, but was that a function of the lens and housing?

I don't really know how these LED circuit boards hold up...Well, the AS factory solution is a bare board isn't it? But maybe the newer lens/fixture has better protection to the elements?

Good job anyway gents. I guess we'll be the guinea pigs for this long term test. And if they short out with rust, we'll just figure out how to protect them on the new set.

-K
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Old 06-20-2006, 01:48 PM   #42
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The boards may have a light clear coat on them, not sure. I did seal the board into the can by taping over the old light fixture hole, sealing the wires as they came through with RTV, and then overcovering that with fiberglass held in place with contact cenment. I have not sealed the lens to the can yet as i am not sure I am done experimenting. Once satisfied I will seal the lens to the can with RTV.

What I am looking for now is a sequencer to run three stop lights. I am going to replace the backup light lens with a tail light lens and make a third tail light and sequence them when turning. If I find what I want it will sequence the stop lights when first turned on and sequence the turn signals each time the flasher turns on. That may be a tricky circuit but I hold someone has made it.
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