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Old 06-15-2006, 10:22 AM   #21
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Running lights too...

I also did the running lights first. I bought them off Ebay from a company that is actually about 2 hrs. south of me in Oregon. $72 for 7 amber, 5 red. Cinch to install. I didn't have to grind any material away, I used new screws for the ground screw, and soldered the hot wire.
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Old 06-15-2006, 10:41 AM   #22
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OK, that's sweet...actually being seen at night - what a concept. I'm now on a quest to do this.
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Old 06-15-2006, 10:42 AM   #23
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I also bought some amber front turn signal LED bulbs.

This wasn't so clean of an install. I should have used the stock housing and just bought some screw in LED bulbs because they point straight out the top of the regular bulb.

When I drilled out the stock housing, the plastic around the sides and back was so brittle and thin that it was breaking everywhere.

I bought two types of the PT series lights; one with a plastic flange, and one without. I trimmed away a little of the broken plastic "valance" (I don't know what it's called on the airstream) and wedged it in there.

It's not super clean and factory looking, but any joe would never know. I'm going to buy some 1157-A24 Amber replacement bulbs and use the stock housing- I think...or I might just leave it.

Either this coach got into an accident in the front right, or the plastic in that area is just weak and old. It's brittle, warped, old---kind of like me... I think I'll keep it.
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Old 06-15-2006, 11:30 AM   #24
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Outofcontrol

In your vids, what was the light assembly and or part number that you finally ended up using? How far behind the lens did you mount the board?
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Old 06-15-2006, 12:35 PM   #25
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ST-R61 Truck Light - Red LED
Truck Stop/Tail/Turn Light with 61 Super RED LEDs
12 VDC, Four inches diameter
DOT SAE Approved
Grommet, Flange and Plug sold separately below
$ 24.95

http://www.superbrightleds.com/cgi-b...?product=TRUCK

It ends up being about 1/4 - 3/8" behind the AS lens. (tip of individual LEDs to the back surface of the AS lens.)
After I pryed off the lens of the new LED light, I trimmed the housing on the coach so that the first lip of the LED light fit snugly. It was so close to fitting already, that you could force it into place, but it deformed the coach fixture. As I was trimming the AS housing, I test fit the AS lens a few times because I wanted the center of the LED array to be in the center of the AS lens. Then I took some safety wire (motorcyce racing stuff - stainless steel wire) and drilled a couple small holes in the AS housing. I wanted to keep the LED light in place with the wire. I thought about zip-ties, and just stuffing something behind the LED light, but the safety sire worked pretty well. If you were really bent on making it perfect, you could make a 4x4 of sheet metal, cut a hole the same size as the LED, put it behind the LED, and use the lens screws to hold everything in place. I also thought about silicon. Also, The small gauge wire I have doesn't interfere with the rubber seal under the AS lens. If you look closely at one of the pictures I posted at the begining of this thread, you can see the wire and the drill holes I made. You might have to click on the thumbnail and look at the full size image to see it.

Another thing that made the mounting process easier was to remove the middle "back-up light" fixture so you can slide your hand behind the LED light. You'll want to take out the back up light fixture anyway to hook up the wires. since they are all hooked up with wire nuts, you don't even have to cut anything. I like to solder things, but since that's the way AS did it, and it's easy to do and and undo for testing, I ended up just using the wire nuts again.

There's probably 50 ways to do this, but considering the tools I had at the moment, how much time I wanted to spend on it, and the end result; this worked pretty well for me. I already had the wire and tiny little drill bits too. You can use a cig. lighter, heat up the wire red hot, and just push it through the AS housing plastic if you want.

The basic problem is that you have a round peg in a square hole; so you have to get creative.

Howie, it looks like you are pretty good mechanically. You'll have no problem making these lights work. I'm giving some of the discription here for guys in internet land that might be looking for the "bolt on" solution. It's pretty close to "bolt on" but getting the lights mounted in the AS fixture solidly took some tinkering.

-KM
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Old 06-15-2006, 02:10 PM   #26
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I'm mixing up my term in this last post, but for some reason I can't edit it. maybe because I'm on a different computer at work.

AS housing = The grey plastic thing that holds all three fixtures.
AS fixture = OEM Lens, reflector, socket, bulb, screws.
LED light = new part including LED lens, circuit board, LEDs, LED body.

I just realized that I am getting obsessed with this LED conversion, I need to get to work!!!

-Kevin
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Old 06-15-2006, 02:24 PM   #27
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hi outofcontrol and others

nice work with the leds and of course the pix help so much...

i see you posted a few bits in this thread

http://www.airforums.com/forum...?highlight=led


along with the other led stuff...before started here new....

being anal, i'd be great if you asked a moderator to move these posts over there too, so we don't have 2 search multi threads for this info.....
just a thought

the round reds you are using look to fix nicely in the older housing.....
i saw those in a TA truck stop last month and wondered if they'd work...
i really like the marker lights toooo......

i've got the tear drop shaped markers which leak regularly and go through bulbs quickly.....

have you seen any of the superbright tear drop shaped marker lights?

since the international rally is in oregon,
you might have lots of folks who'd want your bright light upgrade!

regards
2air'
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Old 06-15-2006, 04:42 PM   #28
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Kevin, thanks for all the fine work today. I hope you're the boss where you work! I believe that you've solved the problem for a lot of us.
I've already got the markers changed out to the double bull type you used.
I'm going to see what I can come up with for a mount to as you put it "put the round peg in the square hole."
This is a very easy fix for a very common problem and you've done the best to show us how.... thanks.
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Old 06-16-2006, 04:42 PM   #29
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I found it!!

Was in Tractor Supply yesterday and found the perfect LEDs for the tail lights. They are submersible boat trailer lights, but when you take off the lens there is the led plate that fits perfectly in the motorhome tail lights. It is only screwed in and comes right out. It also includes the white license plate illumination lights which I removed to use elsewhere. They cost $18.95 each, but you can buy a pair cheaper.

http://www.mytscstore.com/detail.asp...productID=8858
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Old 06-16-2006, 05:47 PM   #30
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Cooperhawk

How about a center to center measurement on the screw holes since Tractor Supply does not post specs on the light.

At first glance they look like a direct replacement for the trailer lights. Hope the measurement comes in to conferm that.
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Old 06-16-2006, 07:01 PM   #31
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Talking

Sorry. I had to get off line before as severe weather was moving in. I will get you the measurements. For the Motorhome I will remove the reflector pan and drill four small holes in the light molding frame and attach the led to the rear of the frame centered in the opening. then re-install the original red lens. The led cluster is small enough that it does not interfere with the red lens mounting holes but the circle is identical with the circle on the original lens. The lens that comes with the light cannot be used as the Airstream lens is curved and it is not. It looks like a very good match and when I applied 12 v. to it, it really lit up and when I applied voltage to the brake/turn lead, it REALLY lit up. Glencoombe, it looks like this is what we wanted.
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Old 06-16-2006, 07:16 PM   #32
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Talking

Okay, went out to my shop and got one of the lights. The red lens that comes with the light is not curved. From screw hole to screw hole it measures 3 and 3/4 inches. The LED is rectangular and measures 3 and 5/8 wide and 3 and 1/16 high screw hole to screw hole. The LED is 1 inch thick at it's thickest point. There are 12 diodes in total. They all brighten when brake/turn voltage is added.
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Old 06-16-2006, 11:39 PM   #33
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WOW. Good job coop'

that looks like easy. and cheaper too. almost "bolt on" or "plug and play".

-K
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Old 06-17-2006, 05:19 AM   #34
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I believe that the problem has been solved. If you look at this post and at the other current LED thread running we now have two options...very cool indeed.
I'm going to visit a TS store this week as I travel in NC.
Coop' how is the brightness? Are these red LED's? Need to see a post with side by side comparrison if possible.
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Old 06-17-2006, 08:15 AM   #35
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Haven't done the installation yet as I need to procure the signal flasher first but I hooked them up to 12 volt and they were very bright and yes they are red. Looks like a very easy install.
Tell me again what signal flasher I need?

There are also four white LEDs on the side to illuminate the license plate and they are just screwed on and come right off. I would guess they could be used in a step light or somewhere else.
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Old 06-17-2006, 03:47 PM   #36
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Talking Installed!

Went to Carquest this AM and purchased the digital led flasher. I may not need it however as they work okay without it so far. Probably enough draw from the front signals and mirror signals. Time will tell.

I installed the led's. I had to trim the cornor off of one but otherwise they went right in. I tried a small screw on each cornor to fasten them but that held the lens away from the frame far enough to leak, so I used small pop rivets and fastened them behind the light frame. All are assembled now and work great.

They are brighter than the 1157 bulb lights and when the brake or flashers light up it hurt my eyes to work on them so I had to turn them off to finish the job. They look nice.
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Old 06-17-2006, 03:51 PM   #37
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additionally

My computer won't let me edit for some reason. the top picture is of one led wired for clearance and one for brake just to see the contrast. Number three and four are the old versus the new lit up as clearance lights only. Quite a difference.
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Old 06-18-2006, 08:08 AM   #38
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LED sources

I was at a local (Big Boy Toy Store), (Fleet Farm) last night and found the Blazer lights there as well. Same price as Tractor Supply. Bought two more. At Car Quest they wanted $75.00 for a set of similar lights. Twice as much.
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Old 06-20-2006, 08:23 AM   #39
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White LEDs

When I bought the last two tail lights, I bought the more expensive model that says 7 function just to see the difference. Well, the difference is that along with the side illumination lights, (which turned out to be red by the way), there was a larger array of white LEDs that lit the liscense plate. I removed them and have epoxied them into my door light. They give a lot of light, but if I need more, I can still use the 12 volt bulb that was there originally.
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Old 06-20-2006, 09:37 AM   #40
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I purchased 4, 61 lamp LEDs from LED-R-US.com and just installed one in the left outside fixture.
I opened the light by turning it on my lath and removed the board. Once the board was out I filed flats on all 4 sides just down to the copper foil on the board. This may have been a bit of over filing as I then had to insulate the edges of the board with electrical tape to insure the board would not short to the housing. I placed the original metal fixture in a vise just grabbing about 3/16 of the edge. Then used a small ball peen hammer to flatten the inside edge of the fixture on all 4 sides in about 1/4 in. The fixture then accepted the board. I padded out the sides of the board with additional tape to just get a snug fit with the board recessed about 3/16 inch. This was enough to clear the lens when placed over the board. I secured the board into the fixture with contact cement and once that set I put a dab of hot glue between the board and the flat edge of the fixture, to act as a standoff, to insure the board could not come forward it the contact cement ever gave way. Do not rely on hot glue alone, as from my kayak building I have learned, the best feature of hot glue is that it does not work over time.
I have only installed one light because I was not overly impressed with the side projetion and want to see things tonight before I go any further.
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