But these right angle bulbs maintain the same height (optical focal point) as standard 1156/57
Right Angle 30 LED bulb
30-LED 12VDC replacement bulb
15mm Single Contact 1156 or Dual Contact 1157 Bayonet Base
35 Degree Viewing angle LEDs are aimed 90 degrees from the base
1.92" long from contact to top of LED housing, LED housing is 1" diam. x 1.25" long:
No mention of a direction option and I doubt there was a "standard". Either half the applications are 180 degrees off or, maybe the bulb rotates? Probably too long (1.25") to be used in the marker lights and even the 1-1/2" square "bulbs" are probably too big for marker lights. Although they'd probably work dandy for the ceiling lights if secured with a dap of RTV silicon sealant.
I spent $160 on a large sampling of bulbs after I read their return policies. They actually recommend doing this. I bought some with wide angle and directional LEDs (110 deg and 15 deg). I can sit there and measure and measure and scratch my head for hours. it's so much easier to have a whole box of different stuff to try out. It's so much easier having it in your hands.
I looked at the right angle bulbs, but I think someone else here tried that, and they faced the wrong way. Plus, I wanted something that performs like the airstream factory ones that they sell, with a large array, where you can see the pattern in the stock lens.
I'm going to keep buying several samples for interior lights as they blow out. Yes, I'll spend a few dollars sending stuff back and forth, but it's cheaper than driving to a truck parts store. Yes, I think silicon sealant would work perfect. not only do the LEDs last forever, but they draw about 1/15th the load of regular bulbs.
[quote=bhayden]But these right angle bulbs maintain the same height (optical focal point) as standard 1156/57
I bought four of the right angle bulbs and they do face 180 degrees from what is needed. They or the reflector can't be modified either. Also. they are far from center in the reflector and need to be extended which I did by buying another socket and placing it into the original socket. That turned the bulb 180 degrees and raised it to the center, but then I was not satisified with that small a bulb. Didn't look right.
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Kevin, how visible is the difference between running light and brake light, running light vs. turn siginal?
My first prototype from China was dismal and I'm not sure I'm going to continue my quest if you've found something workable out of the box.
My thoughts would be to go all white light LED's as the lens will take care of color and the white light is more of a visable spectrum.
I've been eyeing similar at my local truck wash. Now you've got me wondering....
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Glen Coombe AIR #8416
1984 28' Funeral Coach
Golf Professional Sales Rolling Showroom
"I'm not an expert. But I did sleep in an Airstream last night."
Glen,
Try these links, and tell me if it works: you might have to R-click, "save target as..." I made these vids as a reference for myself, never intending on posting them to the web. But I think they pretty well illustrate how these LED's perform. The camera is slow to catch the digital effect of the flashing; it's very OFF/ON. And they truely look different in person. When I was touching the wires with the hot leads, I nearly blinded myself when I touched the brighter "brake/turn" wire. Superbright.com claims they are the same brightness as regular bulbs, but I think differently. Maybe it's because the LEDs are always operating at their max brightness, while an old bulb fades in and out, so there's lots of "glow" time.
I thought the same thing about using white LEDs, but as I read more and more, I learned otherwise. This page answers quite a few questions about using LEDs:
Which Color LEDs should I use ? For best results the LED color should be the same as the lens color. As an example: a red lens will filter out all but the red portion of the light so if the light is all red, none or very little light will be blocked by the lens. The light from a White LED contains very little light in the red portion of the visible spectrum so most of the light would be filtered out by a red lens.
I also did the running lights first. I bought them off Ebay from a company that is actually about 2 hrs. south of me in Oregon. $72 for 7 amber, 5 red. Cinch to install. I didn't have to grind any material away, I used new screws for the ground screw, and soldered the hot wire.
I also bought some amber front turn signal LED bulbs.
This wasn't so clean of an install. I should have used the stock housing and just bought some screw in LED bulbs because they point straight out the top of the regular bulb.
When I drilled out the stock housing, the plastic around the sides and back was so brittle and thin that it was breaking everywhere.
I bought two types of the PT series lights; one with a plastic flange, and one without. I trimmed away a little of the broken plastic "valance" (I don't know what it's called on the airstream) and wedged it in there.
It's not super clean and factory looking, but any joe would never know. I'm going to buy some 1157-A24 Amber replacement bulbs and use the stock housing- I think...or I might just leave it.
Either this coach got into an accident in the front right, or the plastic in that area is just weak and old. It's brittle, warped, old---kind of like me... I think I'll keep it.
ST-R61 Truck Light - Red LED
Truck Stop/Tail/Turn Light with 61 Super RED LEDs
12 VDC, Four inches diameter
DOT SAE Approved
Grommet, Flange and Plug sold separately below
$ 24.95 http://www.superbrightleds.com/cgi-b...?product=TRUCK
It ends up being about 1/4 - 3/8" behind the AS lens. (tip of individual LEDs to the back surface of the AS lens.)
After I pryed off the lens of the new LED light, I trimmed the housing on the coach so that the first lip of the LED light fit snugly. It was so close to fitting already, that you could force it into place, but it deformed the coach fixture. As I was trimming the AS housing, I test fit the AS lens a few times because I wanted the center of the LED array to be in the center of the AS lens. Then I took some safety wire (motorcyce racing stuff - stainless steel wire) and drilled a couple small holes in the AS housing. I wanted to keep the LED light in place with the wire. I thought about zip-ties, and just stuffing something behind the LED light, but the safety sire worked pretty well. If you were really bent on making it perfect, you could make a 4x4 of sheet metal, cut a hole the same size as the LED, put it behind the LED, and use the lens screws to hold everything in place. I also thought about silicon. Also, The small gauge wire I have doesn't interfere with the rubber seal under the AS lens. If you look closely at one of the pictures I posted at the begining of this thread, you can see the wire and the drill holes I made. You might have to click on the thumbnail and look at the full size image to see it.
Another thing that made the mounting process easier was to remove the middle "back-up light" fixture so you can slide your hand behind the LED light. You'll want to take out the back up light fixture anyway to hook up the wires. since they are all hooked up with wire nuts, you don't even have to cut anything. I like to solder things, but since that's the way AS did it, and it's easy to do and and undo for testing, I ended up just using the wire nuts again.
There's probably 50 ways to do this, but considering the tools I had at the moment, how much time I wanted to spend on it, and the end result; this worked pretty well for me. I already had the wire and tiny little drill bits too. You can use a cig. lighter, heat up the wire red hot, and just push it through the AS housing plastic if you want.
The basic problem is that you have a round peg in a square hole; so you have to get creative.
Howie, it looks like you are pretty good mechanically. You'll have no problem making these lights work. I'm giving some of the discription here for guys in internet land that might be looking for the "bolt on" solution. It's pretty close to "bolt on" but getting the lights mounted in the AS fixture solidly took some tinkering.
I'm mixing up my term in this last post, but for some reason I can't edit it. maybe because I'm on a different computer at work.
AS housing = The grey plastic thing that holds all three fixtures.
AS fixture = OEM Lens, reflector, socket, bulb, screws.
LED light = new part including LED lens, circuit board, LEDs, LED body.
I just realized that I am getting obsessed with this LED conversion, I need to get to work!!!
along with the other led stuff...before started here new....
being anal, i'd be great if you asked a moderator to move these posts over there too, so we don't have 2 search multi threads for this info.....
just a thought
the round reds you are using look to fix nicely in the older housing.....
i saw those in a TA truck stop last month and wondered if they'd work...
i really like the marker lights toooo......
i've got the tear drop shaped markers which leak regularly and go through bulbs quickly.....
have you seen any of the superbright tear drop shaped marker lights?
since the international rally is in oregon,
you might have lots of folks who'd want your bright light upgrade!
regards
2air'
__________________ all of the true things that i am about to tell you are shameless lies. l.b.johnson
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Kevin, thanks for all the fine work today. I hope you're the boss where you work! I believe that you've solved the problem for a lot of us.
I've already got the markers changed out to the double bull type you used.
I'm going to see what I can come up with for a mount to as you put it "put the round peg in the square hole."
This is a very easy fix for a very common problem and you've done the best to show us how.... thanks.
__________________
Glen Coombe AIR #8416
1984 28' Funeral Coach
Golf Professional Sales Rolling Showroom
"I'm not an expert. But I did sleep in an Airstream last night."
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