I've enjoyed this thread - I put it aside and saved it for when I had time to utilize it. A question - my AS is a Safari, which doesn't have the fancier light fixtures you show in yours. Mine are the ordinary RV fixtures, using the automotive-type bulbs (the number of which I don't have in front of me. Anyway, wound one light strip be sufficient for reading, or do you think it would require two of the LB3x6 strips per fixture? Put another way, Do you think one strip equals the output of one bulb?
Nice job.
Pat
I'm wondering the same thing, and there doesn't seem to be an easy way to compare "apples to apples"...but it seems to me that since they have a substitute 1157 bulb that has 24 LEDs in it, and these strips have only 6....they'd be about 1/4 the brightness...but since I don't know how bright the 24 LED "bulb" light is compared to an actual 1157 bulb...
it would be neat if they were bright enough. looks like those strips would fit nicely in the 70's vintage overhead light fixtures, which take 6 bulbs, and suck copious amounts of power. But no point if they don't throw enough light to see.
I found that the 36-LED overhead light (P/N PCB-W36) from superbrightleds.com was not anywhere near as bright as the incandescent bulbs in the original fixtures, and at $20 each I'd need to pay $60 per fixture to get about 1/3 as much light - and very very cold blue light at that. I know other companies have warm white LEDs and I plan on trying some of those, but I think I'm going to use compact fluorescents in the overhead lights instead. The price/performance for the LEDs for general lighting just isn't there and I like CFs just fine. I may use LEDs in the kitchen counter lighting to replace G4 halogen bulbs.
On the other hand, I found the 24-LED amber PCB light worked great in the teardrop marker lights outside:
(Please ignore the sealant mess, scratches, unshaved rivets, etc). Just a little brighter than the bulb was, but with a much greater angle of view (i.e. actually visible from directly behind the trailer), since the bulb mount inside the lens was removed. Mounting them is more problematic, as the PCB gets in the way of the hole for the original screw in the lens. I used indoor mounting tape (the white foam kind) to mount the PCB, and then used clear silicone to fill the screw hole in the lens and attach it to the base. I haven't been back since doing that to see how strong the bond is there, whether I'd trust it at 70mph. If that doesn't look good, I'll have to figure out a plan B - perhaps drilling a new screw hole in the lens that won't interfere with the PCB, or using epoxy glue to attach the lens - the problem there is clamping though. I plan on replacing all the bulbs in the exterior lights with these LEDs if I can get it to work.
I also got a reading lamp, the 19-LED white 1156-base bulb from them. It's too cold for me, but I think it gives enough light to use in the reading lamps, so I'll look for a warm-white version elsewhere.
Show some photos of your inside lights your thinking swapping over to LEDs.
I could answer questions better, if not the same as ones shown on first page.
Main thing to remember is LEDs are directional...light goes straight out when compared to bulbs.
LEDs = 15^
Bulbs = 360^
So if socket is sideways, LED would just hit the side of light fixture, with very little getting out where you want it.
Tail lights are good example, I had to use LEDs mounted on boards to face out.
The 6 LED strips compare with a flouresenct of same length.
I used 6 x 6 strips in one by stove for more light than flouresencts had.
Used only 2 in bedroom for a soft light...perfect glow without blinding sleepers.
Bathroom example is good to show how bright the strips are.
Mirror is removed in the photos, and light is bright, lights sink, counter and floor very well.
I was interested enough that I went ahead and bought a couple of the 1156-PCB-W36 White LED Lamps (these are the flat ones) to try in the fixtures over the front couch, and 6 of the light strips to play with in other places.
I'll let you guys know how it comes out. Once I get happy with how this works, then I may just upgrade a few at a time to reduce the sticker shock.
Chuck, I saw some on that site that were angled 90 degrees from the socket - that is, they would fit into each bulb's socket but would point down.
Pat
yeah, I saw those. there's a disclaimer with them: "These bulbs are not suitable for overhead lighting in campers or other applications that require long on-times". Plus, they're 15 bucks...EACH!
Quote:
Originally Posted by klattu
Think how low your battery power bill will be after going to LEDs too
yeah, well, that's all fine and good, but if they're not bright enough...and I still wonder...I can already save electricity and not see what I'm doing by just leaving them off.
fwiw, the switching on this fixture is a 3-position jobby: a, b, a+b. a=the two inner bulbs; b=the 4 outer bulbs. a+b=all six bulbs.
I was thinking "1 strip per bulb"...and that would be expensive enough. But If I need to use 2 to rival the light from a conventional bulb...what is it Larry the Cable Guy says? "GOOD LOWRD!!"
I could probably hire some SOB owner to stand there and hold a flashlight for me for less $$$.
I think I'd do a replacement with 12V fluorescent tubes or CF bulbs, if there's enough space to get that inside the fixture. For example I think you could dismantle a Thin-lite fixture and install all the parts under the diffuser there - maybe find one with a broken or faded diffuser. I have a couple of Thin-lites I think I'll probably find a similar use for - I don't like the fixtures, but the bulbs & ballast are fine.
My 1964 has 3 of those incandescent bulbs in a recessed fixture with a diffuser over the top, but all my diffusers were so aged & cracked as to be no good anyway. I plan on replacing the whole fixtures with some that have standard Edison-base bulb holders, or converting fixtures that used other kinds of bulbs, and then installing 12V CF bulbs in those. This place seems to have the best prices on those although they only stock 13W and 23W versions (equivalent of 60W and 100W incandescent).
But for reading lights very directional is OK, and very low-power desirable so I may pick up some warm white bulbs, maybe some like these. (I think those are the same bayonet base as in my reading lamps.) And for counter lights, I have some fixtures from Ikea that take G4 halogen bulbs that I may replace with something like these, although each 3-lamp fixture would still be $75 or so. Ow. Maybe I can live without counter lights when not on shore power and stick with 30W of halogens.
Anybody have any recommendations on replacement LED clearance/marker lights. I have the double bull version.
Marshall, try LED R US ~ LED Lights, Mounts, Bezels, & Truck Parts and you will find the bullseye red and amber clearance lights. I replaced my 2 front amber lights and 2 corner red lights with their product. I will replace the center 3 clearance lights this summer. You have to modify the base slightly for the negative wire which I did with my dremel tool but they look fantastic and bright. I also replaced my front white 2 bulb bullseye light which looks over my hitch with one of their bullseye clearance lights. Much more light.
__________________ Craig
AIR #0078
'01 2500hd ext. cab, 8.1 litre gas, 5 sp. Allison auto
3.73 rear end
Mag-Hytec rear diff cover
Amsoil Dual by-pass oil filtration system
Amsoil synthetics all around
265 watt AM Solar, Inc. system
I ordered some lights and the good news is that they were shipped quickly and arrived Sat am. I wanted to try the square array (similar shape to what Klattu used for tail lights) over the front gaucho, as that is where we spend a lot of our evenings - reading. Bad news is that the light output is not nearly sufficient for any indoor use aside from a nightlight for a bathroom.
Bad news is that the light output is not nearly sufficient for any indoor use aside from a nightlight for a bathroom.
Oh, well. I'll find some use for them I guess.
Pat
Your situation is very common...although LED lamps can replace conventional lighting, many manufacturers of lower cost LED lamps do a poor job of producing a lamp with useable light. Quality LED lamps that DO put out enough light to do the job are available, but at a premium price that many are unwilling to spend. The Department of Energy (DOE) is currently working with state agancies to accelerate commercially viable, energy efficient, cost competitive LED lamps for the consumer market. Keep your eyes open and keep searching the NET and soon you will have more options. Don't let a few poor performing LED lamps turn you off.
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