OK...so many have asked for part numbers...
Tail/Stop lights with a Red lens use
#1157
LED #1157-PCB-W36 White LED Lamp
These are the square lights on a board
I was under the impression you should use red LEDs with red lenses rather than white LEDs with red lenses since the red lense would filter out the white LED leaving a dimmer light output? The rest of your choices seem to follow that line of thought.
__________________ Craig
AIR #0078
'01 2500hd ext. cab, 8.1 litre gas, 5 sp. Allison auto
3.73 rear end
Mag-Hytec rear diff cover
Amsoil Dual by-pass oil filtration system
Amsoil synthetics all around
265 watt AM Solar, Inc. system
I was under the impression you should use red LEDs with red lenses rather than white LEDs with red lenses since the red lense would filter out the white LED leaving a dimmer light output? The rest of your choices seem to follow that line of thought.
Dang....is tough to keep this straight without photo,
Red LEDs are much brighter than White at this time,
no matter which lense you use.
I'm really not sure if
White thru Red , or
Red thue Red is better.
I used Red thru White (center of backup lens) for a different look.
Dang....is tough to keep this straight without photo,
Red LEDs are much brighter than White at this time,
no matter which lense you use.
I'm really not sure if
White thru Red , or
Red thue Red is better.
I used Red thru White (center of backup lens) for a different look.
You are headed in the right direction.
Red LEDs are in general much brighter (more lumens per watt), and are available in different shades of red (wavelengths). The LED wavelength should match the color of the red lens cover to maximize the effect. A good red LED wavelenght to match the other red lamps is approximately 618nm. The lower the number the more red/orange and the higher the number the red/red. 590nm is amber or yellow/orange and 650nm is red/red.
White LEDs are actually Blue LEDs with a phospher coating to create white light. The coating does cause the color shift but also decreases the light in terms of perceived brightness. That is why some many white LEDs have a blue tinge to the eye.
Any colored lens decreases brightness, even when you match the colors like red LEDs and red lenses. At this time the most effecient set up is to use Red LEDs behind Clear Lenses. The optics in the lens is another area to be considered to stay legal in terms of how the light is ejected from the lamp assembly. Please be advised that many LED conversions are not legal in most states because they don't meet the standards related to either the brightness required, and more likely, the direction the light ejects. Just remember that even though the LED conersion may look 10 times brighter, it may not meet the standards. Of course this would only be a problem if you were rear ended and the persons insurance company who hit you was smart enough to inspect your lights.
I don't mean to discourage anyone from converting to LEDs, I just want to let you know that when you modify safety lighting on your AS or TV, it is important to remember that the original manufacturer followed guidelines that are important for safe traveling.
Interior lighting is another story, the standards inside are almost non-existent because it is low voltage. As an example, try and find a UL label on a standard light bulb...there isn't one.
Have fun experimenting and lighting up your Airstreams.
Most every hi dollar car on the road today has LED tails.
Owner Operators of the 18 wheelers are going to LEDs too.
You can even buy LED trailor lights at Wally World.
Marker lights too.
I've enjoyed this thread - I put it aside and saved it for when I had time to utilize it. A question - my AS is a Safari, which doesn't have the fancier light fixtures you show in yours. Mine are the ordinary RV fixtures, using the automotive-type bulbs (the number of which I don't have in front of me. Anyway, wound one light strip be sufficient for reading, or do you think it would require two of the LB3x6 strips per fixture? Put another way, Do you think one strip equals the output of one bulb?
Standard flashers will see the lower amp draw of an LED as a burnt out bulb and will go into fast-flash mode to alert you of a 'problem' Electronic flashers will not do this and will flash either a filament bulb or LED at the set rate of the flasher.
I've enjoyed this thread - I put it aside and saved it for when I had time to utilize it. A question - my AS is a Safari, which doesn't have the fancier light fixtures you show in yours. Mine are the ordinary RV fixtures, using the automotive-type bulbs (the number of which I don't have in front of me. Anyway, wound one light strip be sufficient for reading, or do you think it would require two of the LB3x6 strips per fixture? Put another way, Do you think one strip equals the output of one bulb?
Nice job.
Pat
Are the type you have square with a single bulb?
Problem with LEDs are that their directional...they send light out like a spot light, not in all directions.
So they must point in the direction you want light, even if is thru a cover.
I used LEDs in the gold piviting lights under cabinets, but not in the small lamp. (see photo below)
Wanted the warm glow of bulbs in there. (LEDs are a very cold white)
So if bulb is in your fixtures side mounted, LEDs will not be so good.
Oh...wait, your wanting to do away with socket and use strips?
Yes, they will point down, and thru cover will look like many small bulbs.
For reading, put in as many as three
For just working light, one or two.
Is very easy to add strips as you decide amount of light you want.
They plug in end to end and come ready to extend.
You can stuff fixture and never reach amps of one bulb.
See the one in bedroom, I only used two for a softer light.
Wanted the warm glow of bulbs in there. (LEDs are a very cold white)
Klattu, it is great to see folks getting into alternative lighting. This may be helpful.
In the past most white LEDs were very cool white because of the blue/phospher conversion, now, LEDs are available at lower color temperatures. They range from about 8000 degree kevin (very, very cool, blueish) to about 2800 degree kelvin (very warm' yellowish). Most common are about 5000 degree kelvin (daylight). When purchasing LED lamps, most suppliers can tell you what color temperature is available. If you want to match your original lamps, use 3500 degree kelvin.
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