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Old 10-06-2016, 09:12 AM   #15
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1982 31' Airstream 310
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Kyote, Ive read good reviews on Progressive Dynamic products. Unless you plan on adding a great deal of electronics to your rig, or some solar power system, I personally dont think you need anything too fancy when youre selecting your new converter. Make sure that whatever you choose is at least a 3 stage converter to protect your batteries from frying due to overcharging. The PD converter in your link looks like it includes a new 12v distribution panel also. Many folks like to upgrade that panel so you can use modern blade fuses rather than the old glass type fuses.

I installed a PowerMax 45 in my 310 and its done a fine job so far, been in now for two years. This type of a converter is pretty much a plug n play install.

https://www.amazon.com/PowerMax-PM-4.../dp/B004YJ3WEO

Mike.
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Old 10-06-2016, 10:01 AM   #16
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I do want to add about 400w solar, like this

https://www.amazon.com/WindyNation-4...=rv+solar+400w

So, it sounds like the PD4000 converter would be a good fit

I'd much rather tackle just about anything in the coach other than electric. but, there are some videos that make it look pretty simple

thanks, Mayco
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Old 10-06-2016, 03:15 PM   #17
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The PD4000 should work. You can buy a new one for around $175 so if you want a new one instead of used it wouldn't cost that much more.

Personally I like the Progressive Dynamic products.

Brad
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Old 10-13-2016, 10:29 PM   #18
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Kyote,

If you're going solar, beyond 100w for battery upkeep, I have a few recommendations.

1. Get an MPPT charger to maximize the use of your solar cells.
2. Research, and build your system on your own, much cheaper than bundles, and better quality parts.
3. Recommend using the AM Solar kit for affixing your panels on your rounded rood, yes they are $80/ solar panel, but they account for our rounded roof.
4. Consider upgrading your coach's power cell to maximize storage of all that energy. Many more options than just car batteries or deep cycle marine/rv batteries.
5. Consider adding an inverter for 120VAC on the go. If getting an inverter, consider install locations within 3ft of the coach batteries.
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Old 10-17-2016, 01:53 PM   #19
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Finally got around to changing the fuel filters with help from Mayco's explanation in the Turbo working thread.

What else should I be looking at now that I have cover off? I think I saw that a lube point for the water pump was mentioned in a thread. The top radiator hose looks ragged, but doesn't seem to leak. The belts look surprisingly good, not cracked or brown and dry.

I'm posting a photo of the engine, FWIW

Also, a photo of the Racor filter I replaced. It is the same beige plastic as the twist handle. Any chance it is OE? I ask cuz I really don't know if it the coach has 23k or 123k miles. The tranny filter looked to be OE.
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Old 10-17-2016, 02:22 PM   #20
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I would inspect the fiber hose that connects your turbo to the air filter. There is a section about 12" long that connects your hard pipe from the air filter. Its buried in there on the turbo side of the motor. It is a BEAR to change (for me) but you want to make sure there are no cracks or holes in it or you risk ruining your turbo. I ended up using a silicone tube cut to length by NAPA. Just bring in your old hose or measure your ends.

There is a grease zerk on the top if your water pump. Some folks get to it from the wheel well I think, I was able to lay on top of the motor to get at it. Very tight space. I used a pneumatic grease gun with a rigid feed tube and it worked real well. Luckily, once youre sure youve greased it well, it wont need it again for quite some time
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Old 10-17-2016, 10:05 PM   #21
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Kyote, make very sure you have the proper metric belts on your diesel. If your belts measure 17mm (over 5/8") across the top and sit up high in the pulley grooves; you're good. If the belts only measure Imperial 1/2" and sit very low in the pulley grooves, they are the Gates replacements they hand out at aftermarket stores and it's only a matter of time until they fail. Buy the proper Isuzu metric belts to replace them now.

Mayco has a thread with proper numbers. I have a spare set as well I could get the numbers from.

A belt coming apart does all sorts of unwanted damage, (ask me how I know).

Cheers
Tony
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Old 10-18-2016, 06:02 AM   #22
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The metric belts I used are SPB1280, bought from Vbelt Supply.

http://www.vbeltsupply.com/
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Old 10-18-2016, 03:01 PM   #23
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Ahh.....the old Imperial 1/2" measurement.....always good to know....unfortunately for me the previous owner mis-aligned the pulleys somehow, another item to be corrected over the winter. Regards, Bob
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Old 10-20-2016, 10:09 AM   #24
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thanks for the input folks

first photo is the belts, and AC belt to the right. they fall at 3/4" on the tape, just about where the metal bit ends. look good?

second is the water pump with the radiator hose coming off the top, correct? felt all around it but not finding the grease fitting.

third is the hose running from to the Turbo as Mayco mentioned. Don't know what the inside looks like, but looks good right?

fourth is the turbo's fans? should I clean off the dirt and dust? not really sure how it works to be honest
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Old 10-20-2016, 10:18 AM   #25
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incidentally, I don't seem to have an oil leak anymore from the spinning cylinder thingy (technical language) on passengers side, just forward of the little pump (I can get a photo up later). This stopped after I changed the fuel filters, which were very dirty.

But, I do have whitish smoke coming out of the hose from the top of the engine, down the passenger's side. is this normal? The smoke from the tailpipe has changed from blue/black to white when cold and clear when warmed up at idle. Oil change is next now that it doesn't seem to be leaking anymore.

some photos of the interior, excuse the mess
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Old 10-20-2016, 04:27 PM   #26
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From best I can tell from your picture, your belts look like they are riding pretty good on the pully. Technically they should be 17mm at the top and I believe 13 mm deep. Most important is that the top of the belt is not below the top of the groove in the pully.

The water pump grease zerk is in between the front of the block and the pump. There is only about an 1.25" clearance to get in there to access. Its there. Might have to push some hoses out of the way to see it.

Your turbo intake hose may be just fine but hard to tell from the pucture. Clean it up the best you can and do a visual and reach in there and feel for any cracks in the hose. They could be hiding on the block side of the hose.

Order yourself a set of replacement belts to have on board, could save your butt should you lose one on the road and they are cheap insurance. A pair of belts from Vbelt Supply is about $20.

Youre doing great, keep poking around in there so you get to know that motor better and better.

Good looking interior, looks like its in good shape!

Not sure about the "oil" leak you refer to. Maybe a better picture would help. I think it may be more likely a fuel leak from your description but see if you can snap a pic of where it was leaking.

Have you cleaned you air filter yet? Should be one of your next maintenance items. Its a KnN filter so you may want to google how to properly deal with cleaning and oiling those filters if youre not already familiar. Restricted air intake can change the color of your exhaust when starting cold. There are plenty of diesel experts here that will explain that much better than I.

Keep on rollin there Kyote, youre moving right along. When I first got my 310, I just replaced everything I could think of so I had a baseline to work from. Now I know exactly what, when, and how all the maintenence items were last replaced. Ive also kept a log on every item with part numbers so I can refer back. Thats helped me out quite a bit with my rapidly deteriorating memory.

Mike
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Old 11-22-2016, 11:36 AM   #27
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what diesel oil are people running? 15w-40? any additives?

If so, can I run it in my Onan 6.5 genset too? I just put regular 10w-40 semi-syth in, but thinking for the future.

should I be worried about the ultra-low sulfur diesel that is common now? should I be adding sulfur? or maybe a regular conditioner like Howes?

thanks!
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Old 11-22-2016, 01:45 PM   #28
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Oil: I run 15W-40 shell rotella in my coach, I add liquid moly antifriction during normal operation. On the last run before an oil/filter change I run a can of seafoam in the oil to clean out the engine, and then drain the oil for the change.
-Generator: Do what the manual says. It should have a temperature chart for different weights, and assess using the same based on conditions. I would imagine you would be fine with 15W-40 based on camping season, but you need to answer for yourself.
-Differential: Often forgotten, but on a 6 month/ 20k miles recommended change cycle. You can stretch that out to five years/100k miles with certain synthetics. Up to you
-Lube: Remember to lube all of your zerk fittings, and more importantly, know where they are, and make a chart so you don't forget. I say this because I did a lube job on mine, and forgot about two fittings. Just hoping to share a lesson learned from my own mistakes.

Fuel: I add either lucas fuel injector cleaner, 1 oz of 2-cycle oil to 1 Gal of diesel, or nothing at all. It's about every third tank I add something

We do put a lot of miles on our coach. 20,000 last year, with 18,000 and counting this year, and another 3.8k planned in the next couple weeks.
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