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Old 06-14-2016, 09:59 PM   #29
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I completed the install today. I went in through the fan as planned, and routed the wires up to the front and into the charge controller. Hooked it up to the 30A surface mount breaker, and then into the battery. She's Alive!!!!

Still need to adjust the back PV panel to ensure there is a down force though. Totally forgot about that until just now.
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Old 06-15-2016, 05:58 AM   #30
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Very nice install, are you adding more batteries to catch all that power?
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Old 06-15-2016, 06:55 PM   #31
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Martin,

I have 2x 6v L16 batteries with 470 Ah each. They are in series to make a 12V battery, and therefore deliver the 470Ah. The standard RV deep cycle is 55-65Ah, so it is the equivalent 6-8 batteries.
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Old 06-15-2016, 11:17 PM   #32
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Actually, 2 6v batteries being run at 12v have the same amp hour rating as one at 6v...you don't double the ah.
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Old 06-15-2016, 11:18 PM   #33
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Like you say 😀
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Old 06-15-2016, 11:41 PM   #34
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Martin,

I have 2x 6v L16 batteries with 470 Ah each. They are in series to make a 12V battery, and therefore deliver the 470Ah. The standard RV deep cycle is 55-65Ah, so it is the equivalent 6-8 batteries.
Not quite. Actually, the 'standard' Interstate deep cycle 12VDC batteries that Airstream provides in every new trailer are group 24 size with an 80 amp/hour rating.

The spiral AGM types like Optima in the 'equivalent' of the group 24 size are rated at 55 amp/hours.
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Old 06-16-2016, 07:56 PM   #35
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Lewster/SebasSF,

Thanks for posting regarding the batteries, but I would have to say you are incorrect due to a misreading of my post. "2x 6v L16 batteries with 470 Ah each." I placed them in series giving me 12V at 470Ah. Thus doubling Volts, and not Amp hours, as stated above. I rechecked my specs and it turns out I was mistaken on one thing: my batteries are rated at 483Ah

Even at 80Ah my 2x L16s do what six of those interstate 24 size would.

Did quite a bit of research on the L16's. But I am already eyeing the bolqon lithium battery equivalent for the ability to consume 80% of the Ahrs without damaging the batteries (329Ah of 416Ah) compared to my current lead acid's 50% (241Ah of 483Ah). Another bonus is the lithiums do not suffer from the Peukert effect, thus they do not lose a lot of their Ahrs due to a high current draw.
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Old 06-16-2016, 08:33 PM   #36
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Lewster/SebasSF,

Thanks for posting regarding the batteries, but I would have to say you are incorrect due to a misreading of my post. "2x 6v L16 batteries with 470 Ah each." I placed them in series giving me 12V at 470Ah. Thus doubling Volts, and not Amp hours, as stated above. I rechecked my specs and it turns out I was mistaken on one thing: my batteries are rated at 483Ah

Even at 80Ah my 2x L16s do what six of those interstate 24 size would.

Did quite a bit of research on the L16's. But I am already eyeing the bolqon lithium battery equivalent for the ability to consume 80% of the Ahrs without damaging the batteries (329Ah of 416Ah) compared to my current lead acid's 50% (241Ah of 483Ah). Another bonus is the lithiums do not suffer from the Peukert effect, thus they do not lose a lot of their Ahrs due to a high current draw.
Seems plenty of capacity to me!
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Old 06-18-2016, 12:04 PM   #37
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Vycan, Can you be more specific with the details of your batteries? Who is the manufacturer of the L16 batteries. Dimensions? weight? Cost? Will they work properly with a charge controller and boondocker set up for lead acid batteries?
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Old 06-18-2016, 01:28 PM   #38
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Click on the hyperlink of my last post where it says "483Ah." It links to all the details you need. It will work with any charge controller configured for Flooded Lead Acid.
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Old 06-19-2016, 05:32 PM   #39
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Finalized pictures of the install. This shows the routing of the cables into the vent, the wires from the vent to the side of the motorhome, and then down along the next window valence forward and to the wiring tracks behind the jack-knife couch.

The next pick is the BUS fuse block at the (+) terminal of my power cell showing the 300A fuse for the inverter/charger, and the 30A fuse for the solar charge controller.

The dash controls with the kickboard out showing the wonky angle of the charge controller, and you can see the surface mount 30A circuit breaker for the charge controller at the bottom left. This circuit breaker is likely redundant due to the fuse at the (+) terminal, but everything I researched recommended both. The controller is secure, and the angle is explained in a previous post.

Followed by the kickboard installed. At my co-pilot's finger tips are the ability to control the leveler, charge our cell phones, observe the engine battery voltage, manipulate the inverter/charger, and observe the solar charge controller.

If anyone has any questions, PM me, it was surprisingly easy, but I took a long time to research, did several rehearsals, mock ups, and a dry-run running the interior wire. Not for those easily frustrated, but if you enjoy challenges, I would recommend doing it yourself. I called several RV places to get a quote for this exact install with all the equipment selected, and received quotes from $7-12K. Doing this install yourself will save you a significant amount of money.
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Old 11-30-2016, 02:52 PM   #40
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Update:

Very happy with the system. Have 120VAC from inverter while rolling down the highway for kids to watch tv, maintain the fridge without consuming propane, and get primary charge from alternator. The solar will give us power all night for fridge 1x propane heater and lights. We can even use the induction cook top to cook during the day.

What I would do different: I would use victron systems because I prefer their interface. However, the magnum family works together very nicely. I find the magnum's remote interface is cumbersome by comparison.
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Old 12-02-2016, 12:43 AM   #41
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Nice work! After over 10 years in the solar industry, I have still nor figured out how to make solar run anything all night🙂
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Old 12-02-2016, 08:31 PM   #42
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Lol... as in stored power from previous day smarty pants!
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