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Old 03-08-2015, 02:11 PM   #1
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1994 36' Classic 36 Diesel
Colorado Springs , Colorado
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Insulation and sound damping solutions

My rear deck behind the bed is made of particle board, and it is nearing the end of its life. I plan to remove it, and install a new one. Pending my decision to move the bed further to the rear, will determine the details of how I will approach this project.

However I wanted to pick your collective brains on the basic process I plan to use, and ask for assistance with sound dampening and insulation solutions. Based on the results of the rear deck, I will redo the engine compartment in the same manner.

Basic plan:
1. Pull old shelf to use as template
2. Cut paper and verify template using cardboard adjusting as necessary.
3. Use 3/4" plywood as the material for the shelf, sand for smoothness
4. Stain oak to match
5. Three coats of SPAR varnish for the shiny look
6. mask edges and place contact paper on the varnished side to work the underside
7. Spray rubberized undercoat to underside of the shelf
--------This is now the unknown-------

What I need assistance with:
1. Ideas for insulation and sound dampening of the shelf, and again for a reworking of the engine compartment.
2. Anyone's experience with composite or integrated thermal and sound dampening material

Ideas I am currently toying with:
1. http://www.summitracing.com/parts/th...FQmpaQodApoA_g
2. Making my own composite solution utilizing the rubberized undercoating, adding, 1" of sound absorbant foam, 8mm of aerogel, and topping it with a radiant barrier foil
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Old 03-12-2015, 10:32 PM   #2
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1936 20' Clipper
1947 22' Liner
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1989 37' Airstream 370
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Google a company called "Soundown" in Massachusetts. Their products are directed primarily at reducing noise transfer from the engine rooms of yachts.
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Old 03-13-2015, 08:33 AM   #3
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2007 30' Classic
Oswego , Illinois
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Here's my go to company:

Dynamat.com | Dynamat Sound Damping | Thermal Solutions

Several products for different uses
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Old 03-13-2015, 10:06 AM   #4
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2007 27' International CCD FB
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dznf0g View Post
Here's my go to company:

Dynamat.com | Dynamat Sound Damping | Thermal Solutions

Several products for different uses
I second this, I have used this in my Corvette, my Trailblazer and I did the back wall of our truck with it where the kids sit.
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Old 03-13-2015, 10:14 AM   #5
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I even used the 1/8" and 1/4" stuff in each and every honeycomb cutout on the inside of my Honda 2000i generator cases...part of the Romulan Cloaking Device. Yes, silent and invisible too!
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Old 03-13-2015, 11:48 AM   #6
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We used Dynamat

Laird used Dynamat to line the cabinet/shell before he installed a new furnace under our cooktop in the kitchen counter of our '74 Ambassador

It really muffles the furnace sound effectively. We are very pleased with the results. It's been about 3 winters since we installed the new furnace.

nancy mac
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Old 03-13-2015, 03:14 PM   #7
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Dynamat is good stuff, but they sure are proud of it. Lowes has a foil faced foam (say that fast 5 times) that is used to wrap ducting. Its about 3/16 to 1/4 in thick by 12 inches wide, and the adhesive is really good. I used it in my GMC Sprint with very good results. It is a small fraction of the cost of Dynamat, and works just as well.
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Old 03-13-2015, 03:55 PM   #8
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I've been using this and like the results.

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Frost-Kin...V516/100028603

Look at it before you blow a bunch of money. When I modified my bed I found a lot of air leaks and loose joints and seems. You will find that if you remove the rear shelf and cabinets. I use 3M 2 part products for panel adhesives and flexible gap fillers.

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They are pricy but if you are looking for professional results, they are the way to go.

I redid most of the 1/2" aluminum angle brackets with screws very near the edges that pulled out with 1" 18 gauge that I bent myself and screwed and glued. God help any future owner that tries to tear it out.

I'd live with the engine compartment insulation unless it's really messed up. The biggest sound improvement I did was to shoot that 2 inch gap between the inner engine compartment and the outer plywood. I used great stuff and it got pregnant. Expanded an pouched the sides out a bit. I would put two layers of carpet pad and fill the gap between with expanding great stuff with a long tube to reach all the way to the bottom. Do one bead at a time and let it expand and cure before the next pass.

That made a world of difference. Not that noticeable from up front but now Ann likes the take naps and read in the back when we are on the road.
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Old 03-13-2015, 11:33 PM   #9
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Dynamat is relatively inexpensive, very easy to apply (almost therapeutic), and very effective at eliminating tinny rattles and high frequency vibrations. It's also a quick way to seal up drafty cracks and crevices; but comparing it to 2lb/ft2 multi layered vinyl mass dampening products is like comparing scotch tape to duct tape.
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Old 03-14-2015, 06:49 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BoldAdventure View Post
I second this, I have used this in my Corvette, my Trailblazer and I did the back wall of our truck with it where the kids sit.
We've used Dynamat as well - so far in the cab roof (with a radiant barrier layer over it for additional insulation) and rear wheel wells of our 2007 Interstate (photo is cab roof in progress). We have longer-term plans to add more in the cab because I'd like a better stereo experience.
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Old 03-14-2015, 02:52 PM   #11
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1994 36' Classic 36 Diesel
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Team,

I am always very thankful for your combined experience. These ideas seem much better than the shot in the dark I was going to take. I will incorporate the dynamat on the shelf, and the carpet foam idea with expanding foam in the void space on either side of the compartment. I will also look at the yachting site for inside the engine compartments. Thanks again!
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Old 03-14-2015, 04:50 PM   #12
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Insulation and sound dampening solutions

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You can see that it expanded with a bit more force than anticipated. I think the carpet pad sandwich might dampen better that just the relatively rigid great shtuff!

When I moved the bed back, I had to step it up 1 1/2 inches to clear a rear structural member. I placed 3 layers of 1/2 inch carpet pad over the engine cover.
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