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Old 02-24-2012, 08:37 PM   #21
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It sure is! I can tell for sure by the faint chalk paint in the window that says "diesel".
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Old 02-24-2012, 08:42 PM   #22
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I took the 310 to Rv Pro Service yesterday, and wasn't impressed with their level of enthusiasm. Im sure they do good work, but as I was getting excited about the mods, the head tech didn't seem to care too much or get into it himself. Considering we're gonna invest somewhere around $50k into it, they better be doing jumping jacks, if not backflips.
I decided to give George Sutton Rv (in Eugene) a call. I'd tried to get a quote from them previous to buying the 310, but had difficulty getting in touch via email. I managed I do just that today, and things are looking much more promising! I spoke with Tom the service manager, and he sounded enthused to work on the project. They are the biggest AS dealer in the west, and they really know their stuff! Tom said they even restored Eddie Vedder's AS I'll let you know how it goes. I'll have rv pro do some work on the chassis, like springs up front, and have them install an engine battery, so it's easier to drive down to Eugene. Other then that, it makes much more sense to have an AS pro do the work.
My parents lived in Eugene for 25 years. My dad may have even bought the MH from Sutton. About 6 months before my dad died, he had them replace the black and gray tank waste valves...they still work! Never heard anything bad about them, but then never really heard anything about them. I don't know if my dad had anything else done there. As Airstream dealers go, they will be expensive! When my dad passed away, my brother and I drove the MH to Sutton to see what it might be worth. He remembered my dad. They took a 5 min look at the MH and came out with eyes wide open and offered me $5000 cash on the spot...of course I said no thanks. I would check around more.
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Old 02-24-2012, 08:52 PM   #23
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Check out Flyte Camp. They are out in Bend. Saw them on Extreme RVs last week. They do some nice work.

Www.flytecamp.com
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Old 02-25-2012, 02:01 PM   #24
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I calculated my average mpg. It came out as 9.25. Here's the route I took-
Collins, MS to Portland, OR - Google Maps

Not too bad considering I kept up with traffic the majority of the time. I did some mild drafting with the semi's for maybe 700 miles of the trip.
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Old 02-25-2012, 02:02 PM   #25
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Lil Berk found his favorite spot already. He would have loved to come on the trip
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Old 02-25-2012, 02:05 PM   #26
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Nice looking rig!

I have dealt with RV Pro and found them to be good folks. It's a family owned business, and you'll often be talking directly to the owner. They put the axle on my Caravel a few years ago, along with replumbing it with new LP lines, and doing a few other odd jobs I didn't feel qualified to do. I was very happy with their service.

Good luck with your remodel!
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Old 02-25-2012, 06:08 PM   #27
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Thanks for the info Stephanie!

Here's a more updated list of mods. Once again, I'd love everyones input!

CHASSIS
Replace springs and Shocks
Remove/treat surface rust
Inspect rear axel
Service/Upgrade Brakes
Service/Replace steering box and power steering
Replace LP lines if needed
Replace or fix existing wiring
Replace existing steel rims with alloy?

ENGINE
Turbo or Intake kit
Bio Diesel or WVO conversion
Cruise Control
Replace coolant overfill bottle
Replace Fuel filter
Check/Replace glow plugs
Exhaust brake install?

CAB
Dash Rebuild with new gauges
Insulate engine compartment for sound/heat
Stereo install
Storage cabinetry (cupholders, ipod holder, music storage)
Replace captains chairs
Fix/Rebuild turn signal switch
Fix spotlight controls
AC and fresh air filter install


EXTERIOR
Replace all window seals
Fix dents
Delete rear window for bedroom privacy
Backup camera install
Solar panels
Ladder to roof (removable?)
Polish and clear coat skin
Lockable Roof Storage (could also act as shroud for ugly AC unit)
AC removal/replacement (maybe only 1 unit is needed?)
Rainwater recycling system
Awnings
Hitch
Bike Rack
HEPA filter mounting system for the windows for desert excurions
Fold out seating
Electrical outlets
Headlight upgrade including fog lights
Custom grill and bumpers?
Larger stainless mirrors
Replace signal lighting with LEDs
Fix broken signal lenses


ELECTRICAL
Battery array
New inverter
Solar array and charger
Wind Turbine and charger


INTERIOR
Strip inside to metal for re-insulation and re-covering.
Strip old floor out and replace
Recover walls and ceilings
Install new cabinetry
Install LED lighting (RGB and brightness control?)
Install wood stove?
Replace sofa
Remove ice maker and microwave



WATER/SEWER
Green fresh water tank. Steel or plastic?
Redo plumbing with bpa free pipes
Replace P traps with new style
Replace showerhead with high efficiency high pressure model
Replace Fixtures
Replace sinks
On demand water heater install
Replace toilet? (snug fitting seat required)
Replace or build custom shower shell?


BEDROOM
Separate stereo?
Reading lights
Extra sound insulation
Solid door
Wardrobe
Hidden safe
Bedside storage
Tie downs for large items during travel

LIVING ROOM
Dinner table for 4
Condiment/napkin/utensil rack on wall next to table
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Old 02-25-2012, 07:17 PM   #28
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1984 34.5' Airstream 345
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Couple of thoughts or ideas for ya...

Get the motorhome corner weights checked.... that IH V8 is a heavy sucker, and having the front weighed will enable you to select your springs and get it dialed!
These guys have a good website..
https://secure100.inmotionhosting.co...7e&portrelay=1

The engine stuff I think we have covered on your engine thread...

Cruise control... keep your eye on Ebay for a Zemco unit. They are aftermarket, stand alone, and use magnets on the driveshaft to read speed...
Although I think they need a Vacuum source, and I know on a Diesel, that might not work on second thoughts...
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Old 02-25-2012, 10:55 PM   #29
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How about sway bars? I know of a place in town, IPD, that specializes in sway bars. I want the handling to be as tight as possible. You never know when someone is gonna pull something crazy on the road....
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Old 02-25-2012, 11:17 PM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SteelyDan
How about sway bars? I know of a place in town, IPD, that specializes in sway bars. I want the handling to be as tight as possible. You never know when someone is gonna pull something crazy on the road....
I have a huge sway bar on the rear, you should too. I also have an IPD sway bar on the front. I would think they would come stock with a sway bar up front, so don't know why mine have an IPD. My dad probably upgraded it. I'm 40 miles up the mountain on a windy road. Last September we went over to the other side of the valley to Lassen for a week. I felt like I was driving all over the road. We came back and I installed SteerSafe on the front end. In November we drove down to Yosemite and back. I think it really improved the steering and handling. It was worth the money for me. At a minimum, replace the existing sway bar bushings.
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Old 02-25-2012, 11:35 PM   #31
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It's also very common to replace the bell cranks with SuperSteer bell cranks. Check out hendersonslineup.com in Grants Pass. I have the SuperSteer bell cranks on mine. There web site has a lot of good info on steering issues and solutions. I would like to learn more about a track bar for the rear end. Henderson's is probably the number one shop for suspension and steering. They have aftermarket springs for the front end as well. My MH has been worked on there.
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Old 02-26-2012, 12:00 AM   #32
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Nice! Thanks for the info. Grants pass is unfortunately a 6 hour drive or so. I'll definitely check em out though.
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Old 02-27-2012, 07:14 PM   #33
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I gave Hendersons Line Up a call today. Very friendly, they sent a list of the best upgrades possible for the chassis and steering. Ch ch ch ch chekit out!

P3032 bellcranks 275.00 each (2) Takes the play out of the steering, less wander
SS3032-8D and SS3032-8P bell crank arms $293.00 each (1 of each) Takes play out, much heavier duty.
SuperSteer coil springs SS250 to SS268 you must weigh the front axle to know which set you need. $350.00 (1 pair)Restores ride height, eliminates air bags on front, better ride.
Road master front anti sway bar and rear urethane bushing kit #1109-116 $547.00. Better stability, less sway.
Safety Plus Steering control 31-140 cylinder $405.00 bracket kit P30kb13 $57.00. Positive return to center, helps in wind and rutted roads.
Koni Front FSD shocks 8805-1006 $172.00 each (2) Much better ride and handling
Koni Rear FSD shocks 8805-1007 $172.00 each (2) Much better ride and handling.
SuperSteer rear trac bar SS300 (rear disc brakes) SS301 (rear drum brakes) $530.00 (1)
Upper Control arm shaft kits K6135 $110.00 each (2)

I totalled it up, and its about $4400 in parts. Not sure what to factor in for labor. I'm gearing up to do the first round of modifications and repairs. I figured starting at the chassis was the right way to go. I'll also sort out the battery issue and get a dedicated cranking battery installed at the least. I was also considering having any surface rust removed or por15'd while they were under there and have everything apart. Ideas?
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Old 02-27-2012, 07:51 PM   #34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SteelyDan View Post
I gave Hendersons Line Up a call today. Very friendly, they sent a list of the best upgrades possible for the chassis and steering. Ch ch ch ch chekit out!

P3032 bellcranks 275.00 each (2) Takes the play out of the steering, less wander
SS3032-8D and SS3032-8P bell crank arms $293.00 each (1 of each) Takes play out, much heavier duty.
SuperSteer coil springs SS250 to SS268 you must weigh the front axle to know which set you need. $350.00 (1 pair)Restores ride height, eliminates air bags on front, better ride.
Road master front anti sway bar and rear urethane bushing kit #1109-116 $547.00. Better stability, less sway.
Safety Plus Steering control 31-140 cylinder $405.00 bracket kit P30kb13 $57.00. Positive return to center, helps in wind and rutted roads.
Koni Front FSD shocks 8805-1006 $172.00 each (2) Much better ride and handling
Koni Rear FSD shocks 8805-1007 $172.00 each (2) Much better ride and handling.
SuperSteer rear trac bar SS300 (rear disc brakes) SS301 (rear drum brakes) $530.00 (1)
Upper Control arm shaft kits K6135 $110.00 each (2)

I totalled it up, and its about $4400 in parts. Not sure what to factor in for labor. I'm gearing up to do the first round of modifications and repairs. I figured starting at the chassis was the right way to go. I'll also sort out the battery issue and get a dedicated cranking battery installed at the least. I was also considering having any surface rust removed or por15'd while they were under there and have everything apart. Ideas?
Good for the economy, I guess. How do you know you need all that stuff?
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Old 02-27-2012, 08:14 PM   #35
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I don't know if I need all of it at this point, but my friend gave me the instructions of the best of everything for the core components of the Moho. It definitely needs an alignement at the very least, some help in the steering, and new springs up front.
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Old 02-27-2012, 08:34 PM   #36
Full Timers/Diesel power.
 
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1983 31' Airstream310
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I don't know if I need all of it at this point, but my friend gave me the instructions of the best of everything for the core components of the Moho. It definitely needs an alignement at the very least, some help in the steering, and new springs up front.
Do the front springs (a shop that works on Fire Dept rigs would be my vote), have the shocks replaced and have it aligned. Peterbuilt outlets have a great system for alignment. What is it doing? Wandering, vibrating?
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Old 02-27-2012, 09:43 PM   #37
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With extra weight of the Diesel, the springs will need to be rated correctly as stated before, so smart move.
Check under you rig as you might find that the supersteers are there already... a lot of us have found this!
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Old 02-28-2012, 12:24 AM   #38
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My front air bags would no longer hold air and last summer I was going to have the "new" springs put in and do away with the air bags. I was going to have a shop do the work and the cost would be around $900 if I remember correctly. I decided to replace the air bags instead. For under $100 for the air bags and doing my own labor, the savings paid for my new a/c I installed last summer. The new working air bags made the difference between night and day. With no air in the old bags, I was all over the road going down the mountain here and the front end bottomed out on any little bump. It was like diving a new coach with the new bags.

I think the price for those Koni shocks are way overpriced for a shock. I installed new Bilstein's and I think they are one of the best shocks out there.

I would only replace parts that are worn/needed. A reputable shop like Henderson's will tell you what is needed after an inspection. Make sure you use a shop that is well experienced with the P30 Motorhome chassis and not just any type of truck chassis. The alignment specs for the P30 Motorhome are different then the standard P30. Most shops do not know/understand this. I have multiple alignment shop receipts in the Dad's paperwork and each show different alignment specs.

Did Henderson's say whether or not the rear trac bar will work on the Airstream P30 chassis with the rear air bags? I'm not sure if it will fit.
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