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Old 02-07-2016, 07:03 PM   #15
3 Rivet Member
Grosspoluter's Avatar
1984 34.5' Airstream 345
Franklin Park , Illinois
Join Date: Jan 2015
Posts: 169
I beleieve the board does everything
Opens the gas solenoid
Turns on the blower
Gets the Sail switch signal
Sparks the ignighter
And also gets the signal from the flame detector
Also the high tempature sensor
Oh ya and the timer to repeat the sequence if it doesn't start

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Old 02-23-2016, 09:33 AM   #16
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1987 34.5' Airstream 345
Waxahachie , Texas
Join Date: Apr 2009
Posts: 133
Ok we finally got both furnaces operating again. All they both needed was the small gas line nipple cleaned out and opened up a bit and new ignitor boards. What I'm talking about is located on the back side of the small plate that houses the ignitor. ust remove the small aluminimum gas tube and both wires. Then remove all four screws that hold the plate on. Be careful not to damage the flame proof gasket. Blow in where the gas goes with your mouth. If you can hear air going through it, it's probably ok. Mine had rusted up a bit due to the heat and moisture and it needed to be opened up and cleaned out. I cleaned the inside of it with a pipe cleaner, and opened the other side up with a small straight pin.
The ignitor boards are located on the bottom of the unit. I got the new boards from Randy at Best Converter supply. Phone 888-828-1893. Good lock

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Old 03-12-2016, 02:44 AM   #17
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1975 29' Ambassador
1986 34.5' Airstream 345
Grefrath/ Germany , NRW
Join Date: Jun 2013
Posts: 202
Hello Airstreamers!
I posted the following last week, maybe under the wrong section (Newbie ...!)
Please check and get me some input!!!
In the other tread, i posted a lot of pictures as well:

Hello! I had SERIOUS problems with my rear Furnace in our beloved "Bangles"! A propane leak, wherever.

I need to live in Bangles in Wintertime (Christmasmarketseason!), so a dependable furnace needs to be on board!

While i know, that the OEM "Duotherm" 25.000BTU is not very good to fix and parts not easy to get, i decided to change the entire furnace to something new. (SAFETY FIRST...!)

Today i began, full of enthiusiastic ideas, to disamble the rear cabinet and had to realize, i can't reach the srews, nor hoseclamps, nor nothing!

Has anybody any expirience about it?

Bangles is the "east-west" islandbed floorplan, there is a very small space under the drawer of the single door shirt cabinet only.

It appears to me, "Airstream" installed the furnace etc. first, then the cabinets...!

If REALLY this is the fact 😳, HOW do i de-install, without destroying the furniture????

Also, is there enough space to install a "Suburban" NT-20SQ between all these pipes for the holdingtank vents?

What about the outlet for Exhaust (fixed pipe now) and airintake (flexible Alu-hose)!? As far as i saw, the Suburban needs fixed conections to the outside.

See the outlet now:

I like to avoid body modifications for the furnacechange. This has bin made by one of the old owners, while they changed the front furnace in 1997 (Now SUBURBAN NT-30SP).

This unit is also "gone"...!😡

I will change this 1:1 by keeping the same unit.

But see, how ugly it looks outside:

So, any suggestions are HIGHLY apreciated, maybe with some "picture-tutorials"...?!👍🇺🇸
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Old 03-12-2016, 02:51 AM   #18
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1975 29' Ambassador
1986 34.5' Airstream 345
Grefrath/ Germany , NRW
Join Date: Jun 2013
Posts: 202
Hi Bead!
I step in here, even if your expiriences about are a while ago.
I need to change my rear furnace, please share your expiriences with me...😬😬!
Thank you very much!!!!
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Old 03-30-2016, 03:09 PM   #19
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1986 34.5' Airstream 345
topeka , Kansas
Join Date: Mar 2011
Posts: 80
Images: 26
Yes, safety first

I have a 1986 345 with the same problem. what new heaters are needed so the outward appearance doesn't change. My best guess is the rear heater a Suburban SF25Q the output is horizontal and the front SF20FQ the output is vertical. does this look right?

“The world is a book and those who do not travel read only one page.” – St. Augustine
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