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05-08-2017, 09:17 PM
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#1
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Kenneth
1987 34.5' Airstream 345
Waxahachie
, Texas
Join Date: Jan 2009
Posts: 183
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HELP!!! Gauges went dead!
In route to the Breaux Bridge Annual Crawfish festival my dash a/c compressor locked up and destroyed the belt. It must have hit something in the engine compartment that disabled the guages. I tested the fuse and its still hot on each side. The only thing I can surmise is the belt may have knocked a ground wire loose, but I can't find anything. Any ideas?
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05-09-2017, 12:45 AM
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#2
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Rivet Master
1991 25' Airstream 250
Oxford
, Oxfordshire
Join Date: Jun 2007
Posts: 1,253
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Have a a look in the electrical section of the P Chevy wiring manual. There is a section on electrical diagnosis. It sets out the test procedures for the instrument panel and gauges.
I am assuming that you have replaced any fuses feeding the instrument cluster. From what I can see on my diagram, there are different fuses for the cluster and cluster lights.
Have you lost all gauges and lights - no power whatsoever?
Also, check whether the rear support bracket for you air con pump has broken off. They are a known issue and that might have caused the original belt issue.
Sent from my iPhone using Airstream Forums
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05-09-2017, 03:50 AM
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#3
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Rivet Master
1984 27' Airstream 270
Scotia
, New York
Join Date: Oct 2012
Posts: 1,082
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I dont know the configuration of a 87, in my 84, to knock out power or ground to the gauges, the belt would have to break through the fan shroud and cause damage to the back of the fuse block that is above the shroud on the firewall.
This is a diagram of the gauge connections on mine.
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05-09-2017, 05:36 AM
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#4
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Rivet Master
1982 31' Airstream 310
champaign
, Illinois
Join Date: Oct 2012
Posts: 4,071
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If it were me, I would pull the front of the dash panel loose (6-8 screws) and use a tester to find out if you've lost ground or power. Then go from there. Right now you really don't know. Ive learned to never ever "assume" anything on these beasts. Good luck, you'll find it, hopefully something simple!!
Mike
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05-09-2017, 06:46 AM
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#5
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Rivet Master
1974 20' Argosy 20
Richmond
, Kentucky
Join Date: Jan 2003
Posts: 9,115
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A word of caution about removing the front dash panel. The heater control module that is fastened to the dash panel and when trying to remove the dash panel on my old 310 the heater control module pulled loose from the panel due to the control cable being held in place by the heater control valve. There is little or no give so be careful when tugging on the dash panel! Same goes for the speedometer cable. It's rather rigid and will pull the speedometer loose from the panel if pulled to hard.
Don't ask how I know about these issues
Brad
__________________
Air forums # 1674
1974 20' Argosy Motor Home
1975 24' Argosy Motor Home
1974 31' Excella trailer (parting out, as of 4/1/2015 I have wheels & windows left to sell)
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05-09-2017, 06:59 AM
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#6
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Rivet Master
1982 31' Airstream 310
champaign
, Illinois
Join Date: Oct 2012
Posts: 4,071
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Good heads up Brad. I should have been more specific. Don't try to pull or remove the dash panel, just tilt it out enough to get your tester probes to the back of the gauges. On my Diesel, Ive also got the fuel shut off cable attached to that panel.
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05-09-2017, 09:40 AM
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#7
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Rivet Master
1974 20' Argosy 20
Richmond
, Kentucky
Join Date: Jan 2003
Posts: 9,115
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mayco
Good heads up Brad. I should have been more specific. Don't try to pull or remove the dash panel, just tilt it out enough to get your tester probes to the back of the gauges. On my Diesel, Ive also got the fuel shut off cable attached to that panel.
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Ouch, another cable! That would certainly complicate things for sure.
__________________
Air forums # 1674
1974 20' Argosy Motor Home
1975 24' Argosy Motor Home
1974 31' Excella trailer (parting out, as of 4/1/2015 I have wheels & windows left to sell)
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05-14-2017, 05:56 PM
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#8
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Kenneth
1987 34.5' Airstream 345
Waxahachie
, Texas
Join Date: Jan 2009
Posts: 183
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I finally was able to take a look it this weekend. Got the locked up a/c compressor off and hoped I would find something. No luck. All fuses are good. I do have instrument lights but no fuel, amp, temp, oil pressure, tach, and oddly enough no leveling jacks either. Everything else seems fine
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05-14-2017, 06:08 PM
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#9
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Rivet Master
1974 20' Argosy 20
Richmond
, Kentucky
Join Date: Jan 2003
Posts: 9,115
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1987_345
I finally was able to take a look it this weekend. Got the locked up a/c compressor off and hoped I would find something. No luck. All fuses are good. I do have instrument lights but no fuel, amp, temp, oil pressure, tach, and oddly enough no leveling jacks either. Everything else seems fine
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The leveling jacks should be powered from the coach battery and if they are wired like my old 310 the ignition switch has to be on for the leveling jacks to function. It sounds like possibly your ignition switch is bad because all the other items you listed are powered through the ignition switch.
This Delco ignition switch should be correct for your 345.
On the leveling jacks there should be a solenoid mounted on the pump and the battery feed should come from the coach battery. The solenoid however will be energized from the starting battery through the ignition switch "on" position (possibly "aux" position as well).
Brad
__________________
Air forums # 1674
1974 20' Argosy Motor Home
1975 24' Argosy Motor Home
1974 31' Excella trailer (parting out, as of 4/1/2015 I have wheels & windows left to sell)
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05-15-2017, 08:34 AM
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#10
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3 Rivet Member
1982 31' Airstream 310
Henniker
, New Hampshire
Join Date: Aug 2015
Posts: 215
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I would also recommend replacing your ignition switch. Since I purchased my 310, the gauges have all twitched whenever the directionals were flashing. A minor issue but for some reason it drove me crazy. I added a new ground and cleaned up all of the wiring on the back of the instrument cluster but no improvement. One day while driving, the engine died. I coasted to the side of the road and found that nothing had 12v power. After a long and frustrating search, I found that rotating the back of my ignition switch slightly would restore power. I drove on and the problem cropped back up several more times. I replaced the ignition switch this spring. Not only did it cure my random no-power issues; now my instruments don't flicker with the turn signals! The old switch looked fine, the pigtail connected to it had no problems but something was loose or dirty inside and applying slight pressure would cause it to make and break connection. If it is your switch, I don't know why your problem would appear with your AC failure but maybe the additional electrical load damaged some contacts.
__________________
1982 310 motorhome 502
Henniker New Hampshire
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05-15-2017, 08:54 AM
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#11
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Rivet Master
1984 27' Airstream 270
Scotia
, New York
Join Date: Oct 2012
Posts: 1,082
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chiefair
I would also recommend replacing your ignition switch. Since I purchased my 310, the gauges have all twitched whenever the directionals were flashing. A minor issue but for some reason it drove me crazy. I added a new ground and cleaned up all of the wiring on the back of the instrument cluster but no improvement. One day while driving, the engine died. I coasted to the side of the road and found that nothing had 12v power. After a long and frustrating search, I found that rotating the back of my ignition switch slightly would restore power. I drove on and the problem cropped back up several more times. I replaced the ignition switch this spring. Not only did it cure my random no-power issues; now my instruments don't flicker with the turn signals! The old switch looked fine, the pigtail connected to it had no problems but something was loose or dirty inside and applying slight pressure would cause it to make and break connection. If it is your switch, I don't know why your problem would appear with your AC failure but maybe the additional electrical load damaged some contacts.
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I have been having similar gauge needle motion with turn signal usage, I was assuming a bad ground, maybe it is time for a new switch for mine?
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05-15-2017, 09:35 AM
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#12
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Rivet Master
1982 31' Airstream 310
champaign
, Illinois
Join Date: Oct 2012
Posts: 4,071
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+1 here
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05-15-2017, 02:09 PM
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#13
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Rivet Master
1974 20' Argosy 20
Richmond
, Kentucky
Join Date: Jan 2003
Posts: 9,115
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Keep in mind anything electrical that is added generally gets power from the ignition side of the system which means additional current is flowing through the ignition switch contacts. The switch contacts were probably border line overloaded from the factory so each added device puts that much more load on the ignition switch contacts.
Same goes for your headlight switch. All those additional running lights are going through the headlight switch contacts. I actually had a dimmer switch fail on the 310 while driving I-64 in Kentucky around 11 pm one time. Not fun when all of a sudden your headlights go out!
__________________
Air forums # 1674
1974 20' Argosy Motor Home
1975 24' Argosy Motor Home
1974 31' Excella trailer (parting out, as of 4/1/2015 I have wheels & windows left to sell)
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05-16-2017, 07:36 AM
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#14
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3 Rivet Member
1982 31' Airstream 310
Henniker
, New Hampshire
Join Date: Aug 2015
Posts: 215
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WayneG
I have been having similar gauge needle motion with turn signal usage, I was assuming a bad ground, maybe it is time for a new switch for mine?
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For $25.00 it is one of the cheaper and easier repairs you will ever make! I reused my original lock cylinder and made a tool to to turn the bezel from a triangular piece of aluminum. Took me longer to make the tool than to do the job.
__________________
1982 310 motorhome 502
Henniker New Hampshire
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05-16-2017, 07:55 AM
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#15
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Kenneth
1987 34.5' Airstream 345
Waxahachie
, Texas
Join Date: Jan 2009
Posts: 183
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Thank-you for all of the valuable input. I hadn't even considered the ignition switch. I wasn't able to get the link that Bkahler provided so does anyone have a part number by chance??
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05-16-2017, 08:04 AM
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#16
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Rivet Master
1974 20' Argosy 20
Richmond
, Kentucky
Join Date: Jan 2003
Posts: 9,115
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If the link doesn't work, here is the part info: ACDelco D1406A switch body.
Brad
__________________
Air forums # 1674
1974 20' Argosy Motor Home
1975 24' Argosy Motor Home
1974 31' Excella trailer (parting out, as of 4/1/2015 I have wheels & windows left to sell)
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06-24-2017, 01:19 PM
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#17
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Kenneth
1987 34.5' Airstream 345
Waxahachie
, Texas
Join Date: Jan 2009
Posts: 183
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Ok. Still haven't fixed my problem but am getting closer. I changed the ignition switch but that didn't help. I did figure out though that it isn't a ground problem I don't think. It's a power supply problem. The Gage's fuse has power and the fuse is good but the pink wires with black tracer on the back of the inst panel don't have any power and thet is what supplies power to the Gage's. I'm assuming the power is somehow coming from the ign switch but am having trouble tracing it. Does anyone have a drawing showing where the pink wire w black tracer gets its ign power from?
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06-25-2017, 10:09 AM
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#18
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Rivet Master
1974 20' Argosy 20
Richmond
, Kentucky
Join Date: Jan 2003
Posts: 9,115
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About the only suggestion I have at this point is to find a 87 GM chassis wiring diagram and see if you can locate the pink with black tracer wire on it. Pink is the standard color for GM ignition circuits. Not sure what the black tracer would indicate.
__________________
Air forums # 1674
1974 20' Argosy Motor Home
1975 24' Argosy Motor Home
1974 31' Excella trailer (parting out, as of 4/1/2015 I have wheels & windows left to sell)
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06-25-2017, 01:29 PM
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#20
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Kenneth
1987 34.5' Airstream 345
Waxahachie
, Texas
Join Date: Jan 2009
Posts: 183
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If I run a hot wire to the pink with black tracer everything works as it should except the key isn't on so I believe the bulk ign wire coming from the ign switch somehow provides power to the Gage's via pink w black tracer wire. I just need to find the schematic to see how so...
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