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Old 07-06-2011, 10:15 AM   #43
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1984 34.5' Airstream 345
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The Battery Boost switch question was based in the fact that by linking the 3 batteries together, it eliminates a bad battery or connection on the engine battery. Dont get me wrong... I have discovered that just because it worked an hour or a week ago, does not mean its ok now!
But I do think it adds weight to the problem being the starter end of things!

A little story that shows how fickle these things can be...
I had a starting problem on my Alfa last week.. it would either clink or just crank then fail.. I recharged, and then replaced the battery to start with.
If I used a Boost charger or a second battery it would spin ok..
A deeper investigation turned up a broken off connector on the starter, which I repaired... and still no dice!
I was kinda baffled, and was thinking the starter was toast, which is a $350 hit.
I was just getting ready to remove it, and went to pull the battery out, when I noticed the + terminal of the battery seemed odd...
This was the problem...
The battery post was broken and not getting a solid connection!
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Old 07-06-2011, 10:29 AM   #44
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Also, the clamp-on portion on the far right of Keyair's photo (held on by two bolts) is also prone to corrosion where it connects to the cable. It's easy to remember to clean the battery post and the clamp where it attached to the post and be completely unaware of corrosion where the cable connects to the clamp.

Cables with the clamp molded on from the factory are not so prone to this problem, but not completely immune. Battery cables can corrode in places where it's out of sight.
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Old 07-06-2011, 12:27 PM   #45
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I had the exact same thing happen once a looong time ago. Went through all the machinations, used up several days, and finally found the shift lever had been bumped slightly off the "P" detent - not enough to notice or see, but enough to disengage the starter solenoid. Now I always try that first.
Good luck
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Old 07-06-2011, 12:37 PM   #46
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jking View Post
I had the exact same thing happen once a looong time ago. Went through all the machinations, used up several days, and finally found the shift lever had been bumped slightly off the "P" detent - not enough to notice or see, but enough to disengage the starter solenoid. Now I always try that first.
Good luck
Jamie
Doh, I forgot about that one!
Or could be the Neutral Safety Switch!
Good job Jamie!
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Old 07-06-2011, 02:59 PM   #47
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HEI distributor

Have you got an HEI distributor? Might be faulty
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Old 07-06-2011, 04:56 PM   #48
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Engine is not cranking at all... so starter related.
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Old 07-08-2011, 12:03 PM   #49
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Any news?
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Old 07-09-2011, 09:08 AM   #50
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Well, no news to speak of. It has rained enough that the drought is easing somewhat.

I found a mechanic who came out, looked at the batteries and starter and decided it needed a new starter. He came back with one just as a downpour let loose so he was supposed to return the day after but didn't show.

So I guess I'll call him again (tried yesterday it he doesn't have VM). The darn thing is that I have to travel to make phone calls, not very convenient.

What is the neutral safety switch and where do I find it?

I too had the not in Park situation earlier this year. Boy was I glad that was all it turned out to be.
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Old 07-09-2011, 10:41 AM   #51
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Not sure exactly where it is on the MH, can be one of two places,(or both).

On the lower portion of the steering column at the linkage or at the connection right on the transmission.
Try holding the key in the start position while moving the shift lever, as the name implies, it should crank in neutral along with park.

Glad your getting wet, one important thing not to worry about.

Good luck!!!
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Old 07-09-2011, 12:07 PM   #52
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Hopefully it will start when your mechanic gets the starter installed. If not he should know how to jumper at the starter solenoid. The neutral safety switch is most likely bad if it starts with the jumper wire.
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Old 07-09-2011, 12:22 PM   #53
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A guy who promises to show up and doesn't is not a guy I call back.

Gene
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Old 07-09-2011, 12:24 PM   #54
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I have seen starter and alternator test benches at most name brand auto parts store. Testing can be very benifical and may help avoid diagnosis by new part installation trial and error.
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Old 07-10-2011, 09:22 AM   #55
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Quote:
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A guy who promises to show up and doesn't is not a guy I call back.

Gene

Well, I agree in theory, but have few choices here. Getting it towed scares me, especially from what I have read in the Airstream literature, and then there is needing a place to stay.

If this a simple thing, I would rather have it fixed onsite. This person was recommended by the local Chevy bricks and mortar mechanic who can not travel.

One thing I know... "afternoon" today means early evening. Probably just as it is getting dark.

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Old 07-10-2011, 11:13 AM   #56
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How about a little distraction...
Post some pics of where you are!
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