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Old 05-05-2016, 10:32 PM   #29
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You need some help on the weekend ??
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Old 05-05-2016, 10:58 PM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Isuzusweet View Post
I know whose's going to be Tap's best friend. He'll probably follow John around all weekend.



Cheers

Tony

SO true! Hehe!

John, could I pay you to help me replace mine? I could bring my replacement window frame and you could bring your tools (including rivet shaver) and Olympic rivets?

I'm dying to get my replacement window in.
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Old 05-05-2016, 11:01 PM   #31
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Tap's rig is going to be in better shape than mine. I'm working on it this weekend.....promise.



Tony

I beg to differ. Mine has a longggg way to go.
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Old 05-05-2016, 11:27 PM   #32
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Yes they did also on the bottom row
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Old 05-05-2016, 11:37 PM   #33
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Tap are you going to drive to Pa without a window????
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Old 05-06-2016, 12:23 AM   #34
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Tap are you going to drive to Pa without a window????

Hehe, kinda, but not really.

I have the original window frame in still, but both glass windows are smashed out.

So for now I have a piece of plexi (that Kreimer was kind enough to send to me) filling one of the window holes (the triangle shaped sliding one), and I hope to put plexi in the other two for the long ride.

But if we were to install my replacement cockpit window frame, that one has the non moving window in it already, and then if I pop Kreimer's plexi into it I'd finally be without 2 gaping holes next to me while driving.
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Old 05-06-2016, 01:08 AM   #35
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Old 05-06-2016, 06:01 AM   #36
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Yes they did also on the bottom row
John, I assume this was in answer to my question if the mandrels broke prematurely and left a hole in the middle?
If so, like I assumed to be necessary, you prob should use stainless steel screws on the top and use a trick for the bottom row:
Once you drill the bad rivet out, take a paper clip or a thin wire and try to figure out where the obstruction is that does not allow one of the legs to expand and consequently snap to mandrel too early.
Once you know the direction of the obstruction, orientate the space between 2 rivet legs to point that way. In extreme cases you have to clip one of the legs to make it work. Its ok on the window frame since it is non structural.
Much nicer to have shaved rivet than a hole in the center, that will leak.
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Old 05-06-2016, 07:01 AM   #37
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I'll be driving there in my pickup so if plans are shaping up to help Tap replace the cockpit windows frames on his coach I can bring a 6' step ladder and various other tools to help out. I could probably dig up a 10' step ladder it that would be better.

I'll need to know before mid day Thursday what all I would need to be bringing along.

Brad
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Old 05-06-2016, 08:10 AM   #38
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Peter I forgot about clipping one leg off the rivet I put caulking in the holes if I have a leak I will try that. Great to have your input thanks.
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Old 05-06-2016, 11:47 AM   #39
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Tap is the replacement window frame new or used.

Did you get any vulkum 116.

How about rivets

Double sided foam tape 1 inch

Flat head Phillips st steel screws #8 / 10 1 inch long.
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Old 05-06-2016, 12:29 PM   #40
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Getting ready for the Get Together

Hi guys, you are all so great.

The window frame is used. I ordered it from AirstreamSupply.com

I don't have the Vulkum or rivets. I only have the window frame with the built-in non-moving window section.
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Old 05-06-2016, 01:07 PM   #41
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If we were to do it, it could probably be a helpful workshop for the group since not everyone has done it and we all might have to someday.
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Old 05-06-2016, 06:54 PM   #42
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Quote:
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Tap is the replacement window frame new or used.

Did you get any vulkum 116.

How about rivets

Double sided foam tape 1 inch

Flat head Phillips st steel screws #8 / 10 1 inch long.
Also replacement window track for the slider should be installed as well.
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