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Old 03-14-2019, 10:15 AM   #1
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1986 34.5' Airstream 345
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Generator/doghouse insulation/soundproofing

It's time to tackle the replacement of the doghouse and generator sound proofing.

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As you can see the soundproofing has turned to dust.

Not sure what to use.
I see some use hood liners like Dynamat: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...KIKX0DER&psc=1

The there's Soundproof Cow:https://www.soundproofcow.com/produc...-foam-panel-1/
And Cyder-Bridge:http://www.cybridgee.com/cabin-engineroom.htm


Sound Cow is $511 for 96sf which would be enough to do both with some left to put under the floor. It's 1" thick. Problem is I emailed and called them w/o any reply.


Dynamat is $150 for 36sf. I need $300 of this and not have much left over. It's only .067" thick.



Cyber-Bridge is $229 for 27sf. I'd need $458 to do the job. But then ,this is for engine room noise dampening/soundproofing which is want I'm wanting. It's .5" thick.


Next problem is: How do you get the generator out of that little hole in the side? I'm just guessing but it looks like the carburetor, exhaust, base plate, and starter/electric junction box would have to come off to clear the opening.
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Old 03-14-2019, 12:18 PM   #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by choctawmel View Post
....

Next problem is: How do you get the generator out of that little hole in the side? I'm just guessing but it looks like the carburetor, exhaust, base plate, and starter/electric junction box would have to come off to clear the opening.
Mel,

On the 345 the generator drops out the bottom. If you look at how the generator floor pan is bolted to the chassis you'll see either four or six 3/8" bolts holding the pan in place. What I used was a motorcycle jack and used that to lower the generator once I had removed the bolts, exhaust and wiring connections. If I remember right I did have to raise the coach some for clearance purposes.

Brad
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Old 03-14-2019, 01:32 PM   #3
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Check out the pictures, last year in my thread, Dana-Mat, inside and out, done. If you decide to drop the generator down, it still has to tilt a lot to clear the curve in the lower panel and you will break the ignition coil on the generator. You can put a heavy quilted blanket over the opening of the door and slide it right out. If you make or have a stand the same height as the opening use 2,2x6 to slide it out. Regards, Bob
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Old 03-14-2019, 01:37 PM   #4
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1986 34.5' Airstream 345
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Mel,

On the 345 the generator drops out the bottom. If you look at how the generator floor pan is bolted to the chassis you'll see either four or six 3/8" bolts holding the pan in place. What I used was a motorcycle jack and used that to lower the generator once I had removed the bolts, exhaust and wiring connections. If I remember right I did have to raise the coach some for clearance purposes.

Brad
Thanks. I know I read somewhere about getting it out.


Still too hard to get down on the floor...... Well it's easy to get down, the getting up is the problem. Was to have a second surgery on my total knee replacement (broke my knee cap) this week but now I have an infection so that's off to sometime after I don't have an infection for 2 month.


Did you redo the soundproofing? I'm liking the Cyber-Bridge 1/2" and 2" stuff but don't like there payment options.
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Old 03-14-2019, 02:51 PM   #5
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on the ground

Got down and looked the bottom over. Got body parts that rap under the bottom of the generator floor. Took the screws out and the molding under the door came off. The corner pieces go up under the side molding and don't come off easily. The front corner is more involved being riveted to the piece in front of it. Don't like to mess with these plastic parts

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Old 03-14-2019, 03:44 PM   #6
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Leave all of that there.....take it out through the door opening, just lay a heavy blanket across the opening so you dont crush it. Regards, Bob
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Old 03-14-2019, 09:58 PM   #7
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Look at MLV too.
Mass Loaded Vinyl.
Wipe clean front surface.
I redid my doghouse with it.
Glued it on with construction adhesive.
Works good.
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Old 03-15-2019, 02:46 PM   #8
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I used some of this, great stuff.

https://www.zircotec.com/zircoflex/
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Old 03-25-2019, 11:57 PM   #9
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1986 34.5' Airstream 345
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I used a product similar to Dynamat on my dog house and everywhere I could reach on the firewall. Its expensive but worth the cost. The sound deadening is amazing, I can hear the engine run but its not loud at all. We can hear the radio and have a normal conversation while driving without raising our voices.
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Old 03-26-2019, 01:18 PM   #10
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Look at MLV too. Mass Loaded Vinyl. I redid my doghouse with it. Glued it on with construction adhesive. Works good.
What thickness did you use? Source? Size? $$? Could it be applied to both motor side and cab side of the doghouse?

Home Depot shows a 4.5x10' 1/8" thick roll for $125. Is there a better option?
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Old 03-26-2019, 06:18 PM   #11
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Hi Wimpy!


I got mine from these guys...
http://www.supersoundproofingsales.c...ts.asp?dept=28


I want to say it was the 1/4" with foam backing... it was a few years back, and I think I spent about $125, and drove down and picked it up. Be warned, its heavy!
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Old 03-27-2019, 06:08 AM   #12
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I'm going with this stuff <http://www.cybridgee.com/cabin-engineroom.htm> in 1/2" and 2". Differently $$$. Was scheduled to be here yesterday.

Just hope I ordered enough because the shipping cost is ridiculous. I can see why Amazon can afford their own delivery system.


Hope to get the generator out today. Had to take the exhaust loose where the header bolts to the down pipe into the muffler because I couldn't get the muffler off the down pipe. May try to use exhaust wrap when it goes back together. Get rid of the heat shield and cut out a lot of rattling.
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Old 03-28-2019, 02:30 PM   #13
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Had to take those two plastic corner pieces off which required the grinding of 6 big rivets 10 or so little pop rivet.

Think they will be replaced with pop rivets. No need to be water tight below the floor.


It would tilt but wouldn't slide in far enough in to clear the angle on the, so they were eliminated.
Attachment 336782
I put a 2X6 under the left front/rear jacks and it rolled right out.

Attachment 336783
After 33 years of sometimes missing the oil fill with oil the base/floor was real nasty. A couple cans of degreaser and a power washer and it looks a lot better.

With it out I see why the wire junction box is so loose. It had studs pressed into the body of the generator that have long since fallen out. Guess I'll keep the bungee cord I have wrapped around it.


Now to get all the original glue and plastic backing off the compartment. Tried some $$ aircraft decal remover and it didn't do anything.


The stuff I bought didn't come with the pill and stick backing, so, I need a good adhesive of some kind. I emailed the Cyber sales and they're sending 3 cans of adhesive for free.
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Old 04-02-2019, 01:50 PM   #14
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did anyone happen to do sound measurements before and after? I also want to spend some time to reduce the noise in my 310, but it can get real expensive real quick, just wondering if anyone did any testing?

Curt
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