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Old 09-19-2011, 01:49 PM   #15
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Filter in, filter out. Outside frame behind the batteries. Need a filter to protect the pump and the EFI body. .
I understand the filter before the pump, but why after, is the pump adding something to the fuel before it sends it to the motor? Filter like Keyairs at the motor makes more sense, sort of. But his carb has one the mechanic couldn't find, at least yours would be metal body.
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Old 09-19-2011, 11:14 PM   #16
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Should weather cooperate, I hope to get under moho this Thursday, take lots of pix, while engine is running to see where I'm getting the leaks. Hopefully, I'll be able to determine if this is something I want to do, or farm out. Has anyone determined if the entire fuel line, from tank to engine is entirely rubber fuel line, or at some point, is metal?
Thanks, Derek
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Old 09-20-2011, 09:08 AM   #17
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Mel,
So instead of filling up my tank, I guess I need to take a road trip to deplete it as much as possible. Mmmm, just when gasoline here in Florida was below $3.50 a gallon too. Maybe just drain it into whatever gas cans I can, or just go and enjoy some time behind the wheel of my Airstream. Thinking, Mom and Dad have yet to see the 'beast' yet, 140 miles roundtrip, that should get me down a bit, huh?
Thanks, Derek
The trick is to not run out on that trip. My next planned trip is farther then I can get with the around 40 gal left now will take me.
Wonder if I could block the tank, then jack the motor home up enough to get to the lines?
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Old 09-20-2011, 10:30 AM   #18
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Hi Mel, someone had mentioned the excess amount of gas under pressure when they went to work on their fuel line. Sure your moho is the same, when you twist the fuel cap, there is an extreme amount of pressure released. Guessing that if you release all of the pressure, some of excess fuel under pressure would also be alleviated.
As far as 'blocking' the tank, not sure how you plan on doing that. I do know that I need to invest in a good floor jack and jack stands if I'm getting under 14,000lbs of motorhome.
Keep us posted on your progress.
Thanks, Derek
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Old 09-20-2011, 10:55 AM   #19
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Derek,
Yours is a later coach, and from what I am reading it should have the later modified 1/2" metel pipe on the OUTSIDE of the chassis rail. This was done to shield the fuel line from exhaust heat, and improve cooling, and thus further preventing heat soak and the resultant vapor lock. You can read all about the Technical Issue in the Chevy Chassis Manual. The majority of the fuel line is metal, with just a few section of flexible line at engine, filters, and Gas tank.

Mel, You could use the fuel pump to empty it, or actually, mine has a drain plug in the bottom front of tank.
I have been using my Motorcyle lift.. its stable, and works great for this type of thing. HF has a reasonable one on sale for $99. Failing that, I would put blocks under each end, and lower it one enda at a time with a jack.

I have decided that I am going to seal the inside of mine with POR15 Tank sealer while its out/down. I do have a Borascope Inspection Camera, so I want to see how it is inside. Makes sense to me to do this now.
Sent them an Email, and got a reply yesterday saying 3 quarts should be plenty, and so thats about $60 in sealer, plus whatever prep solvents I will need. I would rather do it all together, that way I will not worry about further rusting or sediment, and all I should need to do is change the filters for the foreseeable future.
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Old 09-20-2011, 11:13 AM   #20
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FWIW: I ran around Tucson to several automotive stores looking for the small filter that attaches ouside the carb...found them at NAPA.

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Old 09-20-2011, 11:43 AM   #21
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I understand the filter before the pump, but why after, is the pump adding something to the fuel before it sends it to the motor? Filter like Keyairs at the motor makes more sense, sort of. But his carb has one the mechanic couldn't find, at least yours would be metal body.
The instructions for the EFI pump called for an inlet filter to protect the pump and an outlet filter to protect the fuel injectors. The Holly pump at the tank needs an inlet filter also.
Anyone have an opinion on this fuel tubing? It clamps to barbed fitting. Vinyl Fuel and Oil Tubing | U.S. Plastic Corp.
I do need to run a 3/8" return line with something.
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Old 09-20-2011, 12:05 PM   #22
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Derek,

...........
Mel, You could use the fuel pump to empty it, or actually, mine has a drain plug in the bottom front of tank.
I have been using my Motorcyle lift.. its stable, and works great for this type of thing. HF has a reasonable one on sale for $99. Failing that, I would put blocks under each end, and lower it one enda at a time with a jack.

I have decided that I am going to seal the inside of mine with POR15 Tank sealer while its out/down. I do have a Borascope Inspection Camera,.......
It I drain the gas, I was planning to use the frame mounted holley pump to transfer it into gas cans. Then I would use my spare holley pump to pump (with a filter) it back in the tank.
I have no need to go inside the tank, so, the motorcycle lift is a great idea! Leave the gas in the tank. Be cheaper then buying 8-10 gas cans. I looked again, the lift may not work. The support straps only bolt on one side. May not let the tank drop straight down.
A borascope? Why did I check mine back into the tool crib when I retired? Guess I'm not a thief.
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Old 09-20-2011, 08:21 PM   #23
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Thought today would be a great day to start replacing the rubber fuel hoses back my the gas tank.
<img src="http://www.airforums.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=140291"/>
This hose is in the worst shape and my target for today. It connects the fuel regulator to the steel line behind the gray water tank and goes to the engine. Which means the gray water tank must come down.
<img src="http://www.airforums.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=140293"/>
I ripped into the closet behind the shower thinking I could get to where the drain/vent goes into the tank. Not an ezey feat with it glued and stapled! NOPE! not the way.
I pulled a pan out from under the shower to find a p-trap and pipe going over the frame to the waste tank.
Looking at the gray water tank, looks like the air tank for the air ride will have to come off and maybe the tax axle as will. The only problem is, HOW DO YOU GET THE 'IN' PIPE LOSS ON TOP OF THE GRAY WATER TANK!
I back up, changed course, put the closet back together, drilled the lock out of the safe, pulled the broke blade off the bathroom vent.
Got to think a little more before I go back to the tank removal business. Hope someone knows the simple way to go there.
Wow replaced all of mine on my 87 345. Looks nothing like that set up. Hmm?
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Old 09-20-2011, 09:02 PM   #24
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Wow replaced all of mine on my 87 345. Looks nothing like that set up. Hmm?
Hi,

Do you have a carb or the throttle body on your 454? Mine is a throttle body injector. Guessing that all of my 'other' Airstream projects are on hold until I get this gasoline odor figured out. Haven't started the engine in several days, and just outside, and the fuel odor is enough to send the dog running! I'll post results when I get this figured out.
Anyone replaced their rubber fuel lines yet? What did you use? Recommendations are welcomed.
Thanks, Derek
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Old 09-20-2011, 09:40 PM   #25
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Mine is a carb. I replaced all vac lines and fuel filters. All rubber fuel lines. Got them from car quest. Used the rubber fir the new ethanol gas. It took a bit. Oh don't forget about the generator fuel lines too!
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Old 09-21-2011, 09:11 PM   #26
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Derek, check in the bedroom. Pull up the bed and sniff under there, as that is where mine is smelling of gas, so I suspect the vent tube and the gas filler body seal.
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Old 09-21-2011, 10:31 PM   #27
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Derek, check in the bedroom. Pull up the bed and sniff under there, as that is where mine is smelling of gas, so I suspect the vent tube and the gas filler body seal.
Hi Steve, mine has the 'island bed' with the headboard on the curbside. I've seen the area where fuel filler is on streetside on the streetside walk-around area. I'm certain there has to be a way to pull away the wall area there. I'll check tomorrow.
Thanks, Derek
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Old 09-22-2011, 02:59 PM   #28
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Genset fuel line

Does the fuel line to the Genset have it's own filter. Mine is clogged/disconnected/not working and being new at this, I'm unsure where to look.

I'm assuming that I'll have to drop the tank to check it?

One more thing, if I go with the propane kit for the Genset, it won't matter, Right? I'd just need to clamp off the old/unused Genset fuel line.

Sorry if this is redundant.
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