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noiva · 10-20-2005, 08:42 PM

Finally finished acquiring '89 370LE. (Pictures on page 4 of photo section.) Sliding front driver and passenger windows need new track fabric, or whatever that material is, to make them open and shut easier and stop them from tilting. Anyone know where to get the track supplies, what they are, and if this is a job for a fairly mechanical, but not professional person?

Thanks in advance for any help.

Noiva

GlenCoombe · 10-21-2005, 06:50 AM

I got mine from Inland Supply... have not yet tackled the replacement job though.

BTW congrats on taking the plunge. Sounds like a great coach. Turning a 37 must be a real challenge. I really appreciate being able to park almost anywhere with the 28.

noiva · 10-21-2005, 08:38 AM

Thanks for the tip on Inland Supply. Do you have any further info on them? Did they know what you needed, or did you specify? Any tips on the job would be appreciated. I did find what appears to be a good discussion of this on this forum site.

Turning the 370 - - Not as difficult as I thought. The Gillig turning radius is remarkable, but backing is another story. I'm learning to use the camera like I would mirrors on a car. After 2 minor 'run-ins' with tree branches, I've learned to NEVER be in a hurry, and get my wife out there if she'll go. One surprise - the "tail swag" I had heard about doen't happen. Very stable on interstates even with large semis passing.

Thanks again,

Tim (formerly Noiva)

GlenCoombe · 10-21-2005, 02:02 PM

Tim, I think it's actually Inland RV and Andy is a member of the forum. Search Inland and I'm sure you'll find the latest post by him.
As I've not done the job yet I can't offer any help...yet.
I didn't realize yours was the Gillig chassis, only familiar with the GM's.
I notice a bit of wallow with the air ride vs just the sprung suspension but it's minor when you give it the fact that it rides like a dream. It's more like a little oversteer than anything in my opinion.

ALANSD · 10-21-2005, 02:48 PM

I replaced my track material with a felt coated rubber, its easy to install if you follow the directions that are posted here. Search for the thread. PeterH and i used the same stuff. if you go for the original its called fuzzy Schlegle channel.
InlandRv stocks that.
here is a link to the thread...
http://www.airforums.com/forum...light=schlegle

guy99 · 10-21-2005, 06:44 PM

Tim,

First, if your only problem is that the windows don't move easily, you might want to first try cleaning the channel and then spraying with silicon spray.

I just finished re-doing the driver side on my 84 310. I didn't do the passenger side but did spay the passenger side with silicon, they now each operate easily.

If you do need to replace the channel, I was able to replace my multi-piece channel with one single continuous piece of the new stuff. Let me know if you want any information on what I did and I'll post it here so it becomes part of the knowledge base.

Another observation, I had to replace the fuzzy stuff that is between the windows on the vertical bar and the exterior molding that is installed in the vertical bar in order to get the windows as quiet as I wanted them to be.

noiva · 10-21-2005, 06:58 PM

Guy,

I would really appreciate your posting what you did replacing the channel. I know the passenger side is gone, but the driver's side may just need cleaning and silicone. I think your information should be part of the knowledge base. My windows don't have any noise or leakage problems, so I think I'm OK on that issue - at least for now. Thanks for taking the time to help out.

Tim

guy99 · 10-22-2005, 04:34 PM

Ok, here's how I did it. Open the window all the way. Remove the channel from the rear portion of the track (top, bottom and back). Cut the channel you have removed loose from any channel which is being held in by the window. Close window and remove the channel from the front portions of the track (top and bottom). Remove the window from the track (with the channel missing you should be able to lift the window and swing it out at the bottom) with my window this was easier with the window in the open position. Put the window somewhere very safe - they are difficult (and expensive) to replace.

With the window out you should be able to inspect the fuzzy 'wiper' that runs along the verticle bar which seperates the windows. Now is the time to replace that 'wiper' if you need to. It is a real pain to get out so only do this if you need to (I did since I was getting a lot of noise from air getting between the windows when the MH was underway)

Take your new channel material (fuzzy Schlegle or whatever you have decided to use) and fit it into the track all the way around (be sure to push it all the way in around the corners), cut it to fit perfectly. While it is installed, mark the location of the weep holes along the bottom of the window. These holes should be covered by some little plastic covers. Now that you have cut and marked your new channel, remove it and cut the drain slots in the bottom of the new channel where you marked the weep holes.

Install your window without any channel in the track, place it in the fully open position. Now take the new channel and lay it into the top and bottom track. Be sure you put the channel with the drain slots on the bottom. The channel will be too long and will hang out, that's OK. When you have the top and bottom tracks lined with channel as far as you can, 'close' the window sliding it into the new channel as far as you can. Now, open the window, making sure that the channel slides along with the window (I used needle nose pliers to tug on the end of the channel as I slide the window forward. When you have moved the window and channel forward as much as you can you should be able to put some of the channel which was hanging out into the track. Repeat this process, open the window sliding the channel along the track, then close the window and repeat until you have the entire channel (including the vertical section) in the track where it belongs.

Now you can glue the channel in with super weather strip adhesive. I did this in two steps. First I open the window all the way, pulled the channel out of the track and applied adhesive to the track and channel per the instructions. With the rear portion of channel glued in per the instructions and dry, I opened the window, pulled the front remainder of the channel out of the track and glued it in.

GlenCoombe · 10-22-2005, 06:17 PM

Wow! Great detailed instructions! Thanks, now if I have enough time tomorrow I may actually tackle this one. I was looking at it today and thinking about how to go about it, your timing is impecable!

noiva · 10-22-2005, 06:47 PM

Guy,

I can't thank you enough for this detailed, and easy-to-understand set of directions! I just wish I were ready with the materials like Glen appears to be. As soon as I can get the material, I'm going to get this accomplished. Many thanks for taking so much time to make this information so easily understood. As I continue to find, this Airstream group is remarkably helpful. When this is finished my "new" 370 will look quite literally like a new coach, with everything working. (I realize that's always a risky statement with anything as complex as a motorhome, but maybe....)

Many thanks,

Tim (Noiva)

swebster · 10-22-2005, 07:45 PM

guy99,
Wow - terrific post. Mine are all shot, noisy, sticking, leaking, etc. I also have to replace the "B" pillar and "C" pillar wipers. Any details on replacing these as well?

Your detailed instructions helped me understand the process a lot. Thanks!

ALANSD · 10-22-2005, 07:53 PM

the trick when you pull the new channel; material over the top of the inserted window is to have it greasy with silicone ...I did this; seemed like it would tear , but it went right through. I used a sealant to hold the top and sides in place, the bottom just lays right in there no problem.

guy99 · 10-22-2005, 09:57 PM

Steve,

The wiper is a strip of fuzzy stuff with a stiff backing. I found it difficult to remove but very easy to insert. To remove it I used a dental pick to hook into the channel it fits in and snag an end, then needle nose pliers to pull it out until it tears off, then the dental pick to snag an end ... The first time I did this, I thought that the material had become stiff with age and that was why it was hard to remove. Not so, I ended up removing the first replacement after it had be installed for about a week and it was just as difficult.

The reason that I had to remove the first replacement is that there are at least two different materials. They are both fuzzy stuff with a fairly rigid backing. The backing on them is the same but one has much longer, bushier fuzz. When I installed the less bushy one and replaced the window, the fuzz didn't contact the other window. So I got the right stuff from Inland RV, took out the old, and in with the new. I think it would be much better to only do the job once, so be sure you get the right stuff. I don't know if all classic motorhomes use the bushy stuff on the driver/passenger window but mine does.

Installing was easy. Cut a strip of material the correct length, starting at the top put the backing into the slot edge wise and rotate it flat so that the edge is hooked in the slot. I then used a tool used to assemble screens to push on the backing until the other edge went into the slot. The tool looks kind of like one of those pizza cutter wheels except the tool has a wheel at each end and the wheels are smaller than a pizza cutter in diameter. One wheel has a convex edge and the other a concave edge. I found that rolling the wheel with the convex edge up and down on the fuzzy stuff caused the backing to flex and I could work the backing into the slot. Then just worked my way down until I had the whole strip installed.

Good luck and feel free to ask more questions if I was not clear.

noiva · 10-23-2005, 09:43 AM

Guy99,

Another great set of directions. I'm copying these and putting them with your first set. My wipers appear to be in good shape, but the time will come, I'm sure. Do you know anything about the rubber weather strip that goes all the way around the window and seals against the outside body? Mine is definitely on the way out. At first glance it looks like I could get by with gray silicone where it's beginning to crack and develop holes.

Noiva

swebster · 10-23-2005, 11:56 AM

guy99 - many thanks again!

guy99 · 10-23-2005, 12:28 PM

Tim,
The rubber weather stripping is available from Inland RV. The stripping that goes around the perimeter of the window is actually different from the stripping which goes on the vertical bar. Replacing the stripping on the vertical bar was the most difficult but on my MH it really cut down the wind noise. This molding has a somewhat complex shape, there is a rather wide part which actually contacts the sliding window then there is a center core with 'fins' two of these 'fins' have to be pushed through a very narrow slot. I never found a real good way to do this. What I did was to hook one 'fin' into the slot and then curl the stripping and poked the other fin into the slot. Spray on silicon seemed to help some. I tried my screen tool but it didn't go far enough into the slot to get the second 'fin' where it needed to be. I used a pretty small flat blade screwdriver. The problem with that is that you have to push hard enough that the screw driver would from time to time puncture the 'fin' or the core. I found this irritating but concluded that it wasn't going to cause any functional problem. Having a better tool might make this easier, you need something which is strong enough to take a good bit of pressure, narrow enough to fit into the narrow slot, and blunt enough that it doesn't puncture.

The perimeter weather stripping is pretty easy to install, it too has a center core with two fins on each side, you push the 'fins' into a slot which goes around the window. The slot is wider that the other one so this job is tedious but not difficult. The first one I did I did dry. On the second one I used silicon spray and it was much easier.

Good luck.

Guy

noiva · 10-23-2005, 02:50 PM

Guy,

Once again, I'm printing your instructions. They are great, just as before. I really appreciate your time and efforts. I should have gone out and looked at the windows before saying the rubber went all the way around. You are right, of course, that they only go top, back, and bottom (partial on top and bottom). The strip that is the weather seal between the two windows appears to be in very good condition on both sides, but I'm saving your instructions on that also. It's the smaller perimeter rubber that is shaped somewhat like a 'C' that is cracking, and you've covered that as well.

I can't thank you enough for helping the "new" kid with an Airstream.

Best wishes,

Tim (Noiva)

3Ms75Argosy · 10-23-2005, 07:43 PM

using old metal (not plastic, too thick) tire irons for bicycles. Park Tools makes them, they're thin, blunt and wide. Any good bicycle shop should sell them.
Marc

noiva · 10-23-2005, 07:49 PM

Thanks for the suggestion. Anything that makes these jobs simpler is great. I appreciate you taking the time to suggest this.

All the best,

Tim (noiva)

GlenCoombe · 10-24-2005, 08:00 AM

O.k. so I got the drivers side done yesterday... in between preping the rear "dance floor" area for tile.
The part that slowed me down was installing the "wiper" weather strip down the middle beam.
Now that it's all in place I've got a question... Inland sent two different types of glue. Parbond and a 3M weatherstrip glue. I don't see any need to glue the gray center strip. So which glue should I use for the fuzzy Schlegle channel???
Thanks to the instructions this all went together rather painlessly!