Front Side Windows Classic - Vertical lip install

[ALANSD]

I got mine thru Restoration Specialties in Penn. They were quick and fair on the pricing. The local Binswanger guys carry it, but its such a cheap part no one would bother to get it for me. They kept putting me off until it was very annoying. I have had it in plave for awhile now, it continues to work well. http://www.restorationspecialties.com/products.htm call them they are very helpful.

CRL Flexible Flocked Rubber Glass Run Channels for 1963-1966 Valiant and Dart are OEM quality and will provide you with the best results when replacing or repairing damaged or missing channels in older vehicles. These 100% rubber channels will not rust or corrode like wire loom channels can and are the perfect upgrade when replacing older style channels. Although CRL states the original applications for these channels, by using the measurements shown you can use these channels on numerous other vehicles. All channels are Electrostatic Flocked Rubber to protect the glass and provide quiet operation.

Measure the channel if you are worried about fitment.

[Chaplain Kent]

I was out spending some quality time with Chummy and reading the service manual section concerning windows. That is where I needed to start. You people have been talking about the cockpit windows and I have been talking about the back or side windows. According to the service manual I need to drill out all of the rivets, about 150 and remove the inside frames, unscrew the outside channels, if they can be loosened of thier rust, and then remove the windows to get at the channels. OK, after all that what do I use as a new channel? The ones that are there now are so brittle they simply break if I even tap them with a screw driver. Has anyone done this job? I might as well replace the screens when I have them out. Next question is about the tan colored rivets. I can find white and of course silver but not tan and I would hate to replace all of these with white or silver. How about painting rivets before you use them?
How many threads in this one post?

[GlenCoombe]

Well I finished up the passenger side of the bus today. The second side went much faster than the driver side. Experience counts! Even pushing in the verticle "wiper" molding went faster. I really did notice a difference in the wind noise on the driver side last week.
Now that I'm on a roll I think I'll tackle the engine cover insulation and sound proofing. As I spend a lot of time returning phone calls between sales appointments the sound reduction is important.
The instructions posted on this thread really did help me accomplish the job, thanks!

[TheGanzman]

My partner in crime and I just finished the driver and passenger windows; here are our findings, in no particular order:
- For ease of installation/lubrication, I have for years sworn by "Dive Silicone". It's 100% "Food Grade" silicone in an aerosol can. It has no petroleum additives, and unlike products like WD40, it's not hydroscopic (Doesn't "draw water".)
-We used the Airstream fuzzy window channel, purchasing the entire lot from Inland RV (Thanks, Andy!) I like the additional "strength factor" of the steel reinforcement of these channels.
-Cleanup/removal of old product is KEY! In doing so, we found no evidence (at least on MY coach) of any residual adhesive in holding in the gray outside W/S, or the fuzzy vertical strip; consequently, we used no adhesive in attaching same. We can always add Parr bond later on if this starts detaching.
-In removing the original fuzzy channel, it was my finding that the adhesive was used VERY sparingly in attaching it; my opinion is that this was used only to facilitate quick on the line assembly of the window frames. We used NO W/S adhesive in assembling these. They now work effortlessly thanks to liberal use of the aforementioned Dive Silicone, and seem firmly seated in the aluminum window channels; again, if they begin to pull out of the channels over time, we'll use Super W/S adhesive sparingly to attach same.
-Because we used the stock metal-reinforced product fuzzy channel, we used a technique for installation whereby we punched a small hole in the end of the channel, and used a length of stainless "mechanic's wire" to pull the W/S through the channel, both top and bottom, one person lifting the window as the other pulled the channel with the wire. This technique worked well!
-On removing the fuzzy channel, I found no evidence of any material being removed in the weep hole areas. Due to the nature of this product, it appears that it will allow natural "wicking" of water down into the aluminum channel and out the weep holes. Again, if we find later that there's a problem, we'll relieve this material using one of the aforementioned techniques in the weep hole areas.
I hope some of these comments are helpful to anyone who tries this - your critiques are welcomed!

[GlenCoombe]

Hey TheGanzman, where do you find "Dive Silicone"?

I concur with your findings with minor exception. I also like the metal reinforcement of the fuzzy Schlegle channel from InlandRV.

I did poke some holes in mine but didn't really remove much material.

I have two unopened tubes of adhesive, one Parbond and one Super 3M Weatherstrip. I didn't see any reason to apply it to the gray vericle w/s and was going to wait until I needed to use the 3m on the fuzzy channel.

You're right on with your comments. I used a pair of needle nose plyers to pull the channel into place while pushing up on the window and then sliding it forward and working the top in, sliding it back exposed the top run enough to grab and pull through.

On a scale of 5 this DIY project is a weak 2

[SwanMfg]

Originally Posted by Chaplain Kent

How about painting rivets before you use them?

You should be able to paint new rivets to match, provided that you prime coat the tops of the rivets. Use a good auto primer like the Rust-Oleum Grey (look for the can with the car on the front). You don't need a heavy prime coat.

If you can find a tan spray epoxy, then you're good to go. True-Value stores can often order colors you need if they don't have them onhand. You can use enamels also, they just aren't quite as hard of a finish as the epoxys. Allow the rivets to dry at least a week before installing.

Depending on how many you need to paint, consider setting-up a little jig to make the painting easier. Take an old board & drill some 3/6"-1/4" holes across the top to allow the rivet faces to lie flush with the top of the board.

[ALANSD]

Glen- what are you using to insulate the doghouse?
And a comment on the metal in that Schlegle channel, thats what rusts out. Mine had nothing left when I pulled it out and replaced it. It was held together by strands of fiber.

[GlenCoombe]

Alan, the original fiberglass mat is in place but hanging so I'm going to replace it soon too. I built the new air intake box yesterday and now am looking for some 4" hose to duct the air into it from the new remote filter.
See ... more air... posted earlier for pictures.