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Old 10-18-2009, 01:03 PM   #15
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May be A/C system.

On most of the 345's the two small fans, right up front, are for the Air conditioner system and do not run unless the A/C is on. A much better configuration is to rewire the fans to a dash mounted switch. Disconnet the temperature sensor and insert the switch. That way you can turn the fans on any time the engine is getting warm. I ran this way for almost 20 years and never had any over-heating problems. I always had the fans on in the summer or in the mountains and off during the winter. This also improves gas mileage since the main radiator (horsepower eating), clutch type, cooling fan runs much less.
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Old 10-18-2009, 11:56 PM   #16
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We run 210-220, climbing the passes out of Silverton on a 'warm' day...granted, we're doing 15-25 mph, and manually shifting from 1st to 2nd a lot, but we also have auxiliary fans(2) mounted in front of the radiator...some PO took care of us before we bought it...m
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Old 10-19-2009, 09:00 PM   #17
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Our turbo diesel 310 had the fan replaced with a dual electric Flex-A-Lite unit, and I would recommend it. List price is crazy but Summit Racing had them in stock for about $220 including controller, temp sensor etc. One problem to look out for, they suggest that you wire the two fans in parallel through one fuse. In mine, the PO did this and when the engine overheated and toasted one fan, it shorted out, blew the fuse, and that stopped the other fan too. Moral: wire the two fans separately to the controller, with one fuse for each.
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Old 10-19-2009, 10:02 PM   #18
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Howard on my 1988 454 it runs at 210 -220 and the fans come on to cool if it goes higher. I could be wrong but I do not think these fans need the A/C on I have yet to use my A/C, they are on a seperate! Jonathan
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Old 10-19-2009, 10:15 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jhenry View Post
Howard on my 1988 454 it runs at 210 -220 and the fans come on to cool if it goes higher. I could be wrong but I do not think these fans need the A/C on I have yet to use my A/C, they are on a seperate! Jonathan
A common problem with the 345 is that the cable that changes heating to ac will quit activating from the inside dash slide...it's a hassle, but if you go under the hood, behind the flap on the left(passenger) side is the cable, and you can manually switch from one mode to the other...if you hit overheat times, switching to dash heater will get you further down the road, not cool, but a serviceable remedy...m
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Old 10-29-2009, 08:37 AM   #20
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Our 310 with the 454 typically runs about 195 degrees towing our race car trailer or not towing. Sometimes it gets slightly above 200 but that only seems to happen when the dash voltage meter drops to 12 volts or less (there is a wiring problem under the dash that I need to resolve). I've verified that the gauge is accurate using a laser temperature reader. The engine is a 454 factory crate engine that has 20,000 on it.

Needless to say I'm happy with this situation

Brad
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Old 12-06-2009, 06:44 AM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ScrapIrony-2 View Post
A common problem with the 345 is that the cable that changes heating to ac will quit activating from the inside dash slide...it's a hassle, but if you go under the hood, behind the flap on the left(passenger) side is the cable, and you can manually switch from one mode to the other...if you hit overheat times, switching to dash heater will get you further down the road, not cool, but a serviceable remedy...m
scrapIrony, is going to , Heat Mode, helping because you are circulating MORE coolant through the system ???

from reading the above post's ! I do like the idea of wiring the Two fans off a dash switch and running them during the summer months, that does make allot of sense !!!

Thank You for all the good Post's and inputs.

I think flushing the system on a regular basis, every Two years or so ! Regardless of Miles will also extend the life of the cooling system, and make it work even better
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Old 12-06-2009, 07:11 AM   #22
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I run a cooler thermostat on Airstream One in part because of the area I travel in. I switch to a higher temp for the winter/spring and then back down in summer. If you're not fuel injected it won't hurt.

I've replaced the original rad with a new one this year and added a big single electric fan up front. I run 180 on the temp gage all the time. Temp will climb when climbing but I'm not going to put that much heat...250 range on my new motor.

I drive gently for fuel economy and can't remember opening the secondaries as it's like flushing a toilet, IMO. I'm never in a hurry. I'm rarely late.

Heat is the enemy, keep yer' cool.
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Old 12-06-2009, 08:59 AM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ScrapIrony-2 View Post
A common problem with the 345 is that the cable that changes heating to ac will quit activating from the inside dash slide...it's a hassle, but if you go under the hood, behind the flap on the left(passenger) side is the cable, and you can manually switch from one mode to the other...if you hit overheat times, switching to dash heater will get you further down the road, not cool, but a serviceable remedy...m
The dash cluster which supports the cable slider is all plastic and has a tendancy to easily break apart. I replaced mine twice and fixed the last one several times. Keep the slidng mechanism, the metal cable core and the heater valve well lubricated. By the way the heater/AC cluster is a Dodge pickup truck part available from Chrysler or an auto junk yard.
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Old 12-06-2009, 11:33 AM   #24
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I took Howard's advice in post 15. Just took it 1 step further. I used a lighted toggle swich for the fans. The power lead that went to the fans lights up the light in the switch. This serves as a reminder to turn them on if it gets to hot. I figure if the engine will tell me it's getting hot on those days when I'm just sitting back & enjoying the ride.

Ricky
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Old 12-06-2009, 12:06 PM   #25
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scrapIrony, is going to , Heat Mode, helping because you are circulating MORE coolant through the system ???
Yep, same as an old beater...you diffuse some heat by using the extra circulation...not necessarily a pleasant experience, but yer probably already sweating...m
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Old 12-25-2009, 04:24 PM   #26
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I am constantly suprised at what direction the mechanical needs of this Coach are. Since I last posted I installed a Banks Power Pack consisting of a cold air intake and new header typy exhaust system. Made the decision to remove the air pumps etc if for no other reason to make it easier to work on. Drove the beast into town (open headers) to have the exhaust connected at the local muffler shop and then went joy riding!! Amazing power difference. Really pleased. Also the temp guage never got over 200 degrees. The brake light came on and so I went home to find out the master clyinder was leaking. While replacing it I found the water temp sending unit in the drivers side head. It looked really corroded so I also changed it while I had that tire off. The electrical connector was different so I had to splice on one that work with the ned sending unit. My next joy ride the temp guage went to 240 degrees!!! Could the new sending unit be faulty? I am ready to go through the trash to find the old one!!
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Old 12-25-2009, 05:29 PM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1987_345 View Post
I am constantly suprised at what direction the mechanical needs of this Coach are. Since I last posted I installed a Banks Power Pack consisting of a cold air intake and new header typy exhaust system. Made the decision to remove the air pumps etc if for no other reason to make it easier to work on. Drove the beast into town (open headers) to have the exhaust connected at the local muffler shop and then went joy riding!! Amazing power difference. Really pleased. Also the temp guage never got over 200 degrees. The brake light came on and so I went home to find out the master clyinder was leaking. While replacing it I found the water temp sending unit in the drivers side head. It looked really corroded so I also changed it while I had that tire off. The electrical connector was different so I had to splice on one that work with the ned sending unit. My next joy ride the temp guage went to 240 degrees!!! Could the new sending unit be faulty? I am ready to go through the trash to find the old one!!
Hi, first off, if you had to change the connector, this might be your first clue that the new sensor could be incorrect. I'm sure you like the 200 degrees better than the 240 degrees, but that alone doesn't tell you which one is right. You need a non-contact digital thermometer pointed at the thermostat housing or the hot side of the radiator. [tank] Compare this reading with your gauge, give or take a few degrees.
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Old 12-25-2009, 08:21 PM   #28
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FWIW, when I had the temp sending unit replaced on my 84 310, the first one was incorrect and gave high readings. If you have Teleflex gauges (I do) these guys: Home Page should be able to help you determine the correct sending unit.
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