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Old 03-06-2008, 08:06 PM   #1
Hypnotist
 
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1982 28' Airstream 280
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Floor replacement questions

I am in the process of updating My 1982 280 turbo Diesel I tore out all the carpet and in preperation to install new hardwood floors I decided to Polyurathane the plywood sub floor in the process of doing so found the wood rotted in the driver and passenger areas....

Once that was replaced I started on the rest of the floor I decided to remove the water tank to poly under there and lo and behold the floor under the water tank is rotted away.


Here is the question ( Pictures attached)

Do I need to replace the whole sheet ?
will it compromise the rv if I just replace a 3 foot section?
the front panel nearest the drivers area looks easy to replace however the second panel runs under the cabinets and I do not want to remove them I am wondering if I can cut the wood from about the start of the battery compartment and then replace from there? (I would place a aluminum or steel sheet across the area and staple down

the other question is it looks like nails driven into the floor... Is that what they are? Any recomendations on how to remove them and what to use to replace them with....

Last question the water door fell apart .. any tips on replacing that.... ?

Guys I would love the help please dont just send me to another thread I have read for hours and hours on this and most are on replacing the wood in trailers not the MH and so I think they are a bit different...
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Old 03-06-2008, 09:34 PM   #2
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Wow, what a mess. Sorry you have to deal with those repairs. I can't help you with replacing them but I am hoping to learn of any other responses just in case we ever have to do that to our 1984 310 motorhome.

Good luck!

Brad
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Old 03-07-2008, 06:03 PM   #3
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I don't think I would waste my time on sealing the subfloor with poly. If you have a leak it will not really do much to slow down the rot and if you do not have a leak then it is not needed. Just use exterior grade plywood as it is more water resistant <---- note that plywood is not water proof, it will delaminate when exposed to the elements and moisture for long periods of time.
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Old 03-08-2008, 12:59 AM   #4
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I disagree with that.. If you have water running over preserved wood it will run over... not soak in....... If you let any leak go on for a long period of time then sure no prevention method will help.... However with 28 yr old plywood I believe a little prevention goes a long way.....

Exterior grade plywood is ok however Marine grade is much better a few more dollars but well worth the extra...
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Old 03-08-2008, 01:15 AM   #5
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fixing the floor

Ok There is absolutely no help on the forums for floor issues in a MH... Trailers plenty... So I am having quite the challenge...

The floor is rotted in approximately a 2x3 area however does not go all the way to the wall... I am going to cut the section out and replace it with anew piece of plywood inserted into the cutout then I will use 3 inch wide strips of galvanized sheet metal to attach the insert to the rest of the floor....

I will also put a new piece of plywood 1/2 Marine approximately 2' x 4 over the entire area and glue and screw into the floor then re-situate the water tank over the area... the additional plywood will assist in maintaining the floors integrity...

Before I can install the tank I have to install a new water filler door.

Justin
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Old 03-08-2008, 06:17 AM   #6
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JJ - Have you thought of putting a sheet metal subfloor UNDER the plywood? If you can gat access under there through the hole you cut out to remove the bad piece, putting sheet metal under it all could prevent water problems in future as well as providing some more support for the inserted replacement piece.
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Old 03-08-2008, 08:37 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jking
JJ - Have you thought of putting a sheet metal subfloor UNDER the plywood? If you can gat access under there through the hole you cut out to remove the bad piece, putting sheet metal under it all could prevent water problems in future as well as providing some more support for the inserted replacement piece.
Jamie
Jamie, if you get under your rig you'll notice there is a metal panel below the plywood. If not the wood would have been gone on all our MOHo's long ago.

I'd suggest that you remove sections based upon where the stringers in the floor are. This way your new section will be supported properly.
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Old 03-08-2008, 09:35 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GlenCoombe
Jamie, if you get under your rig you'll notice there is a metal panel below the plywood. If not the wood would have been gone on all our MOHo's long ago.
To add to what Glen mentioned, be careful when cutting out the old wood in that you don't also cut the aluminum sheet that the wood is laying on. I believe the factory laid a sheet of aluminum on top of the truck frame before laying the plywood (OSB) down. At least thats what it looks like on both of our motorhomes.

Good luck!

Brad
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Old 03-08-2008, 12:38 PM   #9
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I'm not a MoHo guy, just two comments...

That is plywood that you have, not OSB. You probably knew that. OSB would be giving you much more problems IMO.

I agree with you that while sealing the floor is not a fix-all against leaks and rot, it will help.
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Old 03-08-2008, 06:19 PM   #10
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Oh what fun!

Hi guys, yes I have a sheet of aluminum under the plywood. I think I am going to have to use a plunge router or my roto zip to cut it out because I have to be so accurate on the depth.....

So just a thought... I was watching "How It's Made" (Love that show!) and they were showing how they make extra long boards. They cut out a series of ribs out of the ends of each piece.. (kind of looks like fingers interlocking) then connect each piece and glue them together.... Many of the longer pieces of wood holding the roofof most homes together are joined like that...


So what I am going to do is cut the piece out, then make a pattern with 3 long triangles in either end. so the original cutout will be approx 3x2 with 3, 4 inch trinagles on either side. I will cut the pattern into the floor as well so they will join like a jig saw puzzle...

I will still put sealant on the bottom of the wood as well as two metal straps across the long area for extra reinforcement... However I believe I will be better able to preserve the integerty of the floor. using a pattern versus just cutting out a square hole...

Justin
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Old 03-08-2008, 06:33 PM   #11
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Drivers area replacement

Here are some pics of the drivers area before and after.

I had to pull both the drivers and passengers area wood floor due to water issues... there are two aluminum sheets that cover over very large holes in the floor they are unattached aside from staples into the wood...


I removed them cleaned them up then sprayed them with rubberized undercoating... I also put new R13 insulation in the walls the wood I used is marine grade plywood ..

To remove the floors take the inside wall panel off and remove the phillips head bolts holding the floor down... To remove the bolts holding the seat posts down I actually had to have 2 people and a blowtorch they were covered in 28yr old Locktite cutting out the new piece is much eaiser with the old as a template especially for all the wholes drilled into the floor.

I sanded and polyurathaned the wood prior to installing it on both sides... also with the walls off replaced the drain hose tubing in the wall then sprayed rubberized undercoating on the inside walls to protect and to cut out any rattle before installing the new insulation..DSC00001.JPG
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Old 03-09-2008, 08:30 AM   #12
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Beautiful job! Your careful cutting (not cutting the metal underfloor) will pay dividends long into the future. Thanks for the pix.
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Old 03-10-2008, 09:24 AM   #13
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Outstanding job!
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Old 03-10-2008, 10:37 AM   #14
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FWIW

Those of us that have built boats, kayaks and aircraft are familiar with epoxy encapsulation. Basically you completely cover all exposed wood.
I've always used scarf joints on plywood - about 8 or 10 to one ratio, thickness to length.
other relatively new method is to join the panels together using a jigsaw puzzle cut. this is easily done with a router and a duplicator bit.I've seen a few kayaks that have used this technique,you get a lot of glue surface, the benefit being that as you bend the sheet around frames and bulkheads the surface stays "fair".
I'm with the other guys, use your structural framing as your backing, I'ld also try to use a lap joint.
Luckily my moho doesnot need much floor rebuilding.
you look like you are having a good whack at it, just take your time . it'll all be good, and you'll be happy.
and you just may be able to put in a small secret storage compartment.
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