Elvis progress Update from the UK
Olympic fever is gripping us here in the UK. Team GB are off the mark...
I've been working hard on getting Elvis sorted as we're now using him a lot during our house hunting here in Wales. Ideally I would have got lots of work done before use but it hasnt worked out that way (doe it ever).
As some of you know he had some issues after being punched in the face during transit from the US. The bruises are healing well though...
There was a lack of power from the engine which I worked hard to fix only for the heater matrix to spring a leak. There were some leak issues from the carb manifold where it meets the head. I think these were caused during recent head work by the PO (Hi Habs). Water would come out when revving it high (4.5krpm plus).
I did fear a headgasket problem as it was running too hot as well.
It also vibrated alot. The vibration was from part of the clutch on the aircompressor which rotates off centre when it was switched on causing the compressor to move on its mount slightly. The fix was simple. Good old WD40 on the friction plate stops the clutch rotating, tighten the mounting bolts and belt. Leave it turned off and open the windows for now.
I cleaned the Quadra Jet with simple carb cleaner and adjusted the Throttle flap for the secondaries. Looking online I found great video's on You tube from a guy that rebuilds Q-Jets. It told me all and they really are much more simple than Webers/Dellorto's. I have not rebuilt it but bought a kit of gaskets and a float for the future when needed. There was a neat trick to avoid bogging down which involes cutting off a small lever that is controlled by heat. It allows the secondaries to open fully all the time. I just glued it out of the way without dismantling anything! Normally the big secondaries floats can't open when you stomp it at idle I believe. I changed all the ignition components I could find including the leads, plugs (set to correct gap 1st)coil,cap,rotor and the module in the dizzy.
Then it wouldnt start. Must be fuel. I repaired a few cracked rubber fuel lines. The one between the tank and the metal chassis tube at the rear was chaffed and had actually got massive holes in. Luckily this happened the day after we got back from the 1st camp site. There was no way the fuel pump could suck fuel. I will fit some plastic condiuit over this rubber fuel line. It must have rubbed on the inside of the hole that it passes through in the chassis at this point. It is just ahead of the generator compartment. I could not replace the line all the way back to the tank as you cant get to it without cutting a hole in the floor or dropping the fuel tank (new straps would needed as the strap ends would have to be cut off due to rust incase you have to do it). Luckily there were no more holes hidden away.
The best bet would be a metal over braided hose here. She started right away. Also found a leak tucked away on the underside of the fuel pump where the solid metal line connects. After removing the steering damper to get to it the compression nut can be tightened to stop the leak after the pipe is nudged in squarely. Go easy or replace the pipe here with kunifer I think here. I'm not sure how it flares though.
He started right up but still had a small leak from around the carb. I dont think they used any gasket on the mounting bolts so some of these were removed and silicone used on the threads. I have since added a bottle of 'K-Seal' which used tiny particles of copper in a thick solution to seal any leaks in the system. I works perfectly. I dont like uses this sort of stuff usually but this is the only brand i would use on my engines. I have set the timing by working on getting the highest vacuum/idle speed and backing the distributor off slightly so that it doesnt ping or overheat. Its proabaly 12-14 TDC but I couldnt be .... with messing about anymore to find the right lead underneath to time from. I think it was No.7 in the end. The engine is howling now with no leaks. I had it up to 70 with more to come now and no sign of over-heating. It runs at around 65 C and went up to about 75-80 on a fast steep climb and actuall caught the lorries ahead. Going to wrap the original headers for now (what a crud design) but at least it's much cooler under there.
One issue that almost ruined the 1st few weeks away was caused by no one checking the tyres. They are all nearly new but I am always hot on tyre pressures as they really affect a cars/MH handling. I went to inflate one and the air came out and kept on coming till it was flat! I was thrown into having to do the one thing I did not relish doing which is jacking up a 6 ton beast in a field. I changed the wheel. Need a 20 ton jbottle jack as this would be long enough to avoid having to use the levelling jacks (yes),wood to get the thing high enough to get the wheel off. The valve core could not be removed from the old tyre as it had disintegrated and stuck open. As a precaution I am having all the valves and cores changed and tyres checked at a local tyre shop. The owner has a big big new American RV by chance.
The rear air bag compressor is now working and inflating to the right height. The bags stay up for about 3 weeks without the compressor coming on. I'm happy with this and now only let the compressor run with the engine running to give it some more oomph and less stress on the fuse and wiring as it is not wired thru a relay yet. Will do once my overalls are washed.
Front bags are inflated to 65PSI tyres at front ar 65 PSI for now. It made a big difference but theres more to come I think. Next job is getting the handling/steering better. I'm looking for the Super steer bell crank.
We've found the perfect site. It's quite American as it has TV hook up and grey water drainage and water right next to the pitch so we dont have the issues of moving the biggest thing on site every few days. Were here for about 3 weeks at least.
Greetings from Daisy Bank' in Shropshire on the Welsh border.
Loving Life, Chicks, Cars and Mummas Grits baby