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Old 07-03-2007, 06:47 AM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mlmarch
On my 345 i had an electronic relay added to allow for me to plug in the coach power(for one of the ac units)and also plug in another 20 amp feed so that I can run both units when camping without having to run the generator. The relay prevents potential electrical problems with the selection switch. System works great and saves wear on generator. Most campgrounds have the 30 amp plug along with another 15-20 amp outlets. I also had an adapter plug built so that if the campground has a 50 amp plug then i can plug my 30 and the 20 into my adapter then plug the adapter into the 50.
Any chance of posting some pictures of the installation?

Thanks,

Brad
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Old 07-03-2007, 07:15 AM   #16
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1986 34.5' Airstream 345
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Dual Air

How did you get the relay work done....yourself or electrician. Can you further explain how the system is installed?
Thanks,
Pete
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Old 07-03-2007, 08:21 AM   #17
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dual ac

i had the local airstream service company do the original installation and he used a magnetic relay and it later failed. I had it replaced with an electronic version. There is also a simpler way where you cut the feed to one of the a/c units and reconnect with an outlet and plug. when the gen is on you have the plug attached to the outlet-when at shore power unplug the gen and then plug in another cord that is attached to shore power. The key is that you cannot have the gen and shore power capacity to be connected at the same time or you will feed 220 to the ac unit. My relay auto switches to prevent this. I probably would have set it up with the dual plug due to less cost if i had known that at the beginning. The plug is located in the gen compartment and has a cover to protect it. The cord from shore power feeds thru the bottom of the compartment and that way you can close the front grille. The 345 needs both ac units going when it gets in the 90's both on the road and parked.
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Old 07-03-2007, 08:24 AM   #18
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dual ac

The relay is mounted under the bench seat that is closest to the driver. you open the cabinet door and it is facing you. That way the relay is protected and is accessible and close to gen compartment. The key again is to prevent both shore power and gen from both feeding the ac unit. You can do it with the relay or by unplugging and plugging is different cords into the added outlet inside gen compartment.
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Old 07-03-2007, 08:30 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mlmarch
The relay is mounted under the bench seat that is closest to the driver. you open the cabinet door and it is facing you. That way the relay is protected and is accessible and close to gen compartment. The key again is to prevent both shore power and gen from both feeding the ac unit. You can do it with the relay or by unplugging and plugging is different cords into the added outlet inside gen compartment.
I've been planning on using plugs for the shore line conversion. Just haven't had the time to do it. Underneath the passenger closet is where all the boxes are on a 310 and I'm just going to put a plug there.

Brad
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Old 08-18-2007, 01:54 AM   #20
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The PO of my 345 told me he has run both a/c units off the genset while driving. He said turn the switch to the rear unit & start it. While it is on, flip the switch to the front unit & turn it on. I tried this once in my driveway just to see if it worked (it did). After 3 minutes, I turned it off. I don't know if the units were safe to run like this and anticipate checking the systems out before I do it for an extended period of time. I suggest you do the same.
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Old 08-18-2007, 08:29 AM   #21
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Our 345's are all wired for thirty amps and two AC's need at least 50 amps to start and run. Pat370 has rewired his for 50 amps and can now run both roof airs from shore power when he has a 50 amp hookup. When I get time I intend to do the same. Meanwhile, the only way I can run both AC's, is with the genset. I do run both AC's all the time when on the road and leave the dash air off.
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Old 08-20-2007, 09:45 AM   #22
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boca raton , Florida
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Duel air when on shore power

I have to go to my 345 and get the receipt for the system I installed a couple of years ago. As I remember the cost was less then $100. and the install was not difficult. It works by seperating the circut from the generator and allows you to plug a second land power line from the gen compartment only to run the second airconditioner. I think it was from duel power systems? Will get the details and answer back later. I set a thread about this a year or so ago.
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Old 08-20-2007, 09:48 AM   #23
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Duel air when on shore power

I have to go to my 345 and get the receipt for the system I installed a couple of years ago. As I remember the cost was less then $100. and the install was not difficult. It works by seperating the circut from the generator and allows you to plug a second land power line from the gen compartment only to run the second airconditioner. I think it was from duel power systems? Will get the details and answer back later. I set a thread about this a year or so ago.
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Old 08-20-2007, 10:07 AM   #24
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Duel air again

Name is - Power Solutions
704-398-0996

Look at a thread dated 11-10-2006
"30A upgrade to 30A + 20A"
Drawing are in the thread.
I put the same system in and works GREAT!
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Old 09-20-2007, 07:50 PM   #25
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pic of my 20 amp plug in knife switch

I recently did this mod to my 345. Here is a pic of the knife switch that my dad (the electrician) and I installed. The trick was that we had to disconnect the wire from the selector switch above the stove where you select between microwave, front air, rear air, blender etc. We thought that if we didn't disconnect it here and we were plugged into the 20 am service through the extension chord type plug in and put the selector on rear air, then we would be sending 220-240 volts to the rear air and fry it. Now when you put the switch on rear air it does nothing. The knife switch controls whether you get power from the 20 amp plug in or from the generator. I had a time figuring out that there is a 45 second time delay before the generator or 20 amp power kicks on. Then you can turn on the rear air. Anyway, here it is.
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Old 09-20-2007, 08:28 PM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jagcb750
I recently did this mod to my 345. Here is a pic of the knife switch that my dad (the electrician) and I installed. The trick was that we had to disconnect the wire from the selector switch above the stove where you select between microwave, front air, rear air, blender etc. We thought that if we didn't disconnect it here and we were plugged into the 20 am service through the extension chord type plug in and put the selector on rear air, then we would be sending 220-240 volts to the rear air and fry it. Now when you put the switch on rear air it does nothing. The knife switch controls whether you get power from the 20 amp plug in or from the generator. I had a time figuring out that there is a 45 second time delay before the generator or 20 amp power kicks on. Then you can turn on the rear air. Anyway, here it is.
JaG,

220-240 volts would not be an issue so you didn't really need to unhook the wire. I spent several evenings tracing down the wiring in our coach and made a sketch of it. Unfortunately the sketch is in our motorhome which is at the repair shop. I'll try and post it early next week when we get our motorhome back.

I did two mods while I was rewiring. The generator has a 240vac output with a neutral center tap which provides for two 120 vac circuits (circuit A and circuit B). Circuit A feeds the entire coach through the rotory switch in the kitchen. As you know that rotory switch feeds only one major appliance at a time.

Circuit B goes to the single 30 amp circuit breaker box near where you mounted your switch and it feeds through the transfer switch only the rear air. This transfer switch is active anytime the generator is running. When the generator is not running the the transfer switch is de-energized so Circuit A can feed the rear air through the rotory switch. Now, if you start the generator 45 seconds later the transfer switch is energized and Circuit B is fed to the rear A/C directlly through the transfer switch. Even if you turned the rotory switch to select the rear air the transfer switch keeps power from Circuit A from reaching the rear A/C. In no way does Circuit A come in contact with Circuit B.

In my mind Circuit B is a wasted circuit if you don't use the rear air while on generator. In my modification I installed an outlet box in the generator compartment and connected it to Circuit B from the generator. This way whenever the generator is running I have power to those outlets. Since we use our motorhome at the race track where there usually isn't any shore power available, having those outlets available means I can still run A/C in the coach (front air) and have power to run a compressor or other power tool from Circuit B. It is set up such that the outlets and the rear A/C can be energized at the same time when on generator.

The other modification was to run a second power cord from the electrical entrance compartment to the same location as the generator transfer switch. I broke the line that goes from the transfer switch to the rear air and for the time being have used a plug arrangment to isolate the rear air from the rest of the coach wiring. I'd like to find a toggle switch like you installed but haven't found one with a high enough rating that is DPDT.

Its really hard to explain and I'm hoping the sketch will clear things up

Brad
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Old 09-20-2007, 09:27 PM   #27
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Wow! sounds really technical. I'm guessing you are an electrician then? We weren't really sure whether The selector switch set to rear air was going to provide the other 120 volts, but just wanted to be on the safe side. There is a couple of outlets on my 345 right outside the door of my coach. I haven't checked to see if they are hot when my generator is on or not yet. They are in an ideal location, however it is on the opposite side of where the generator is. Fixing up Nancy has been quite an obsession for me as of late. I've been trying to space it out so my wife doesn't think that I am spending too much time with her. She has enjoyed camping with me in her, so I assume she will allow me to keep fiddling with her. My next project is to give her a tune up.
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Old 09-20-2007, 09:46 PM   #28
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Nothing wrong with wanting to be safe . The alternative really sucks

I never checked the outside outlets with the generator running. I traced all of the generator wiring for Circuit B and I know it only feeds the rear A/C on our 310.

We're do a few repairs and a few upgrades before each trip in our 310. Eventually we'll get it all done. I hope.........

Brad
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