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Old 11-21-2013, 06:34 PM   #1
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Door lock keypad reset

Hey Y'all, my 1991 300LE has a numeric keypad, but I don't have the combination to use it. Anyone know how to reset it? Perhaps respond in private? Thanks, Sebastian
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Old 11-21-2013, 07:47 PM   #2
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I don't have a clue, but think I would take it to a locksmith.
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Old 11-21-2013, 08:26 PM   #3
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Hey Y'all, my 1991 300LE has a numeric keypad, but I don't have the combination to use it. Anyone know how to reset it? Perhaps respond in private? Thanks, Sebastian

Find the brain (module box), the number is printed on the side
It looks like this :
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Old 11-21-2013, 11:22 PM   #4
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Great, I think I know where it is. I'll see if I can get it working this weekend, but I suspect I have other lock issues to sort out as well.
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Old 11-22-2013, 09:17 PM   #5
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Hi Peter, I found the box, exact same as in your photo, but don't see the number on the side. I will take it out tomorrow and have a look...it's not in a good spot to see anything, but it looks like it should detach from the wires. Thanks, Sebastian
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Old 11-23-2013, 04:41 AM   #6
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Sebastian,
Now that I got mine working, I use it all the time. Its well worth restoring.
You can read my quest restoring the system on a 93 34" trailer here:
http://www.airforums.com/forums/f281...em-106209.html

its a 5 digit number printed in bold letters (32045 in this example) on a sticker like this:
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Old 11-24-2013, 11:03 PM   #7
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Thanks for all the pointers. My controller is up in the wall behind the fridge. After messing with it for about an hour and breaking off the screw tab...not a big deal, I finally got the code. As I was closing the cover, I noticed someone had scratched the number in the door in small letters!!!
When I enter the code, I hear a relay click, but no love on the deadbolt opening. It also won't work using the dash switch, so it's probably a bad actuator. I did also notice a cut? or loose wire, so who knows. Has anyone figured out how to test the actuator by applying 12v? I would need to find where the wires go...probably to the lock control box.
Peter, do you know what wire colors went to the actuator?
Thanks, Sebastian
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Old 11-25-2013, 06:52 AM   #8
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Thanks for all the pointers. My controller is up in the wall behind the fridge. After messing with it for about an hour and breaking off the screw tab...not a big deal, I finally got the code. As I was closing the cover, I noticed someone had scratched the number in the door in small letters!!!
When I enter the code, I hear a relay click, but no love on the deadbolt opening. It also won't work using the dash switch, so it's probably a bad actuator. I did also notice a cut? or loose wire, so who knows. Has anyone figured out how to test the actuator by applying 12v? I would need to find where the wires go...probably to the lock control box.
Peter, do you know what wire colors went to the actuator?
Thanks, Sebastian
2 different systems were used in the MH and the trailers (see link to my post above).
In the trailer power comes directly from the module going to the actuator, I assume the same holds true for the MH, except the dual function from the dashboard switch. If you hear a relay click using the keypad coming from the module and you hear nothing when using the dashboard switch, it all points to the actuator itself.
this picture with red/blue wire is from 1993 34' Airstream Trailer Limited
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Old 12-22-2013, 09:35 PM   #9
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My 91 350LE has a dead actuator too. The part is available. It lives In between the outer skin and the interior skins. You can drill out the rivets on the interior and remove the inner wall or you can cut out an access hole and fabricate an interior panel to cover it which is what I plan on doing. Here is the drawing from the Airstream owners book.


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There are some great threads with great photos posted here from owners who have done this repair.
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Old 01-15-2014, 12:38 AM   #10
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Well, that sounds simple, bit I still can't find the right wires to test the actuator...anyone know the position on the control unit?
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Old 02-12-2014, 09:44 AM   #11
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Both my trailer and my Excursion came with the numeric keypad and no combination. I went to the Ford Truck Forum and did a search and found a list of all of the possible 5 number combinations and simply started putting them in on the keypads. I now have both working fine and was even able to change the truck to match the trailer. May be be a bit time consuming and non tech but it works.
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Old 03-14-2014, 04:55 PM   #12
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Ok, I will need to get back to this some time. Is there anyone who had done this repair or troubleshooting that knows the position of the wires to test? Photo attached of mine.Click image for larger version

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Old 03-14-2014, 10:19 PM   #13
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I posted the wire diagram. The pink wire with the black tracer and the red wire with the orange tracer are the 2wires that go to the actuator. One wire plus a ground move the servo to unlock and the other wire plus the ground move the actuator the other was (lock and unlock). If you depress the last 2 keys on the keypad simultaneously the deadbolt should lock and the floor lights should illuminate. You should be able to use a 12v trouble shoot light by connecting it to the red/orange wire in that bundle you show in your picture plus any ground and confirm power is going to the servo. I suspect that your servo is dead.
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