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Old 08-01-2010, 10:45 PM   #1
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Door hinge repair

I am working on my door this week and it looks like my hinges are drooping quite a bit but i'm not sure if they are repairable or if the trailer models from Inland will fit.
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Old 08-02-2010, 12:45 PM   #2
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I am working on my door this week and it looks like my hinges are drooping quite a bit but i'm not sure if they are repairable or if the trailer models from Inland will fit.
Unfortunately hinge wear is a problem on motorhomes. Our 310 has the same problem. Some people have inserted various sized washers in the gaps between the pin and the hinge to try and take some of the up/down slop out. I did this and it did help some. The drawback is there is also frequently wear inside the hinge bore itself allowing sag to occur.

Removing the hinges from the frame is not an easy task. You'll have to drill access holes in the door and in the wall. That's one reason I haven't fixed or replaced our's as yet.

I can't imagine the trailer door hinges are any different than the motorhome door hinges. I'll have to have a look at our 74 Excella trailer and see if the hinges are the same as our 1984 310. I'll let you know....

Brad
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Old 08-02-2010, 12:52 PM   #3
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Originally Posted by oliver00 View Post
I am working on my door this week and it looks like my hinges are drooping quite a bit but i'm not sure if they are repairable or if the trailer models from Inland will fit.
Trailer door hinges are different from the motorhomes.

Andy
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Old 08-02-2010, 01:13 PM   #4
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Trailer door hinges are different from the motorhomes.

Andy
And the hinge/latch system on the mo/hos are a huge pain as time goes by. /
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Old 08-02-2010, 01:23 PM   #5
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And the hinge/latch system on the mo/hos are a huge pain as time goes by. /
They can be, but, normally they do not offer any problems.

The best that we can determine, as being the cause of the motorhome entrance door loack and/or dead bolt problems, is vibration.

Whenever we service that lock problem, we always find the running gear way out of balance.

Andy
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Old 09-29-2010, 08:28 PM   #6
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Andy:
I recently purchased a '95 Classic Pusher 36 and am experiencing some door latch issues. You said that running gear can be part of my problem with the deadbolt not latching? Please, tell me more so I can get an idea of how to deal with this.
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Old 09-29-2010, 10:22 PM   #7
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Andy:
I recently purchased a '95 Classic Pusher 36 and am experiencing some door latch issues. You said that running gear can be part of my problem with the deadbolt not latching? Please, tell me more so I can get an idea of how to deal with this.
Check your PM.

Andy
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Old 09-30-2010, 12:07 PM   #8
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I discovered that the leveling jacks can torque the frame/chassis...level out before getting out of the unit...door won't open...level out after setting up...door won't close...I'm back to using 2X6's or parking level...i have been able to somewhat modify the hinges using plastic washers cut into a 'c'...m
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Old 09-30-2010, 12:29 PM   #9
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I discovered that the leveling jacks can torque the frame/chassis...level out before getting out of the unit...door won't open...level out after setting up...door won't close...I'm back to using 2X6's or parking level...i have been able to somewhat modify the hinges using plastic washers cut into a 'c'...m
The BAL jacks, are not leveling jacks.

But, they are stabilizing jacks.

If you use them to lift the trailer, you will indeed jamb the entrance door.

You level the trailer with blocks of wood or whatever else you may wish to use.

Then and only then, do you engage the BAL jacks which stops the trailer from bouncing around when you walk in it.

Andy
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Old 10-11-2010, 12:42 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Inland RV Center, In View Post
The BAL jacks, are not leveling jacks.

But, they are stabilizing jacks.

If you use them to lift the trailer, you will indeed jamb the entrance door.

You level the trailer with blocks of wood or whatever else you may wish to use.

Then and only then, do you engage the BAL jacks which stops the trailer from bouncing around when you walk in it.

Andy
Andy:

He has a motorhome there? Are they not the same jack system as on the Land Yacht Clipper??
I have copied this from another post.

Level Jacks, Land Yacht, Clipper, Milwaukee Cylinder
Just a reminder to the proper use of the level jacks on your motor home. I see some posts here and other sites re: the body twisting, creaking, and the door binding when the jacks are extended.
My experience is specific to the Land Yacht Clipper #137, but this info applies to any unit.
When picking a site to park, try to put the rear of coach into the positive adverse. Why??? Well it will be a lot easier (closer to the ground) to escape out the rear emergency exit in one of those exciting moments that we all hope will never happen. This will also, in most sites, give you the view out the front windows.
THIS ALSO ALLOWS THE FRONT OF THE COACH TO ALWAYS BE ELEVATED SO THAT IT PIVOTS ON THE FRONT JACK (only one front jack as on the Clipper) or adjusted accordingly if equipped with two jacks.

The proper procedure then is pick your spot and apply the park brakes, dump your air, place your oversize jack pads, extend all your jacks to engage the pads/ground, extend your FRONT jack(s) to bear the weight, and then level your coach with the REAR jacks.
As you level the coach be sure the front jacks maintain enough elevation so that the unit frame is not solid on the axle, but pivoting on the jack(s).

The Clipper has the single jack on the front and I believe this is the most practical and efficient setup compared to a 4 leg system.

If the above procedure is followed, and you have a binding door or other problems, either you have soft ground and one jack has sunk, or you have other problems that need close inspection to determine how much money you are going to be spending!!!!!!!

For those of you who have visited the TERRAPORT OEM site @ Jackson Center, you will remember the FREE parking/docking there and the slight slope to the outer ring road from the service hub in the center of the spoke. This is the ideal campsite layout and it would be nice if a few more locations had a similar setup. Every AIRSTREAM should have the chance to see its birthplace at Jackson Center at least once in its long life!!!!

Good Luck
Dave
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Old 10-12-2010, 06:14 AM   #11
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Old 10-17-2010, 06:22 PM   #12
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Smile Door Hinge Repair

I had good luck repairing the door hinges with E clips out of a snap ring assortment. Be sure M/H is level and raise door to insert E clip between hinges and viola the sagging door is fixed. Be sure door lines up with the striker plate also. Sometimes the E clip will come out and then you have replace them, but after they seat the problem is solved.
Mike
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Old 10-22-2010, 03:08 PM   #13
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The trouble with using E-clips or anything else metallic is that the metal is harder than the cast aluminum of the hinge, and over time will eat into the aluminum. I think only nylon washers should be used, "c" or "e" or whatever shape you like.
Jamie
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Old 10-28-2010, 05:39 AM   #14
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I have a pair of new hinges that I purchased for my 1992 350LE. Turns out that I didn't need them after all. I did remove the door to do some work on the screen door. Contrary to Brad's post I did not have to drill access holes in the door. I did in the wall though. I carefully pulled back the fabric wall covering, drilled four 3/4" access holes [to access the nuts]. When I was done I replaced the fabric and you would never know that anything was done. If anyone is interested in the hinges let me know. - Jim
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