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Old 11-23-2014, 01:27 PM   #1303
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1982 28' Airstream 280
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Originally Posted by Vycan View Post
Nice!

What were the air valves behind the hood door for?
Thanks! The air valves are for the front helper airbags inside the coil springs. With the values located inside the hood, it sure is easier to check and fill. 55lbs is the magical number.
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Old 11-23-2014, 01:28 PM   #1304
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1982 28' Airstream 280
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Originally Posted by wxbuoy View Post
Very cool! Thanks for sharing!!
Thanks!
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Old 11-23-2014, 01:29 PM   #1305
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So cool , thanks for all the photos
Thanks!
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Old 11-29-2014, 01:02 PM   #1306
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1982 28' Airstream 280
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Driving the windy road in and out of the ranch is always an adventure. I usually end up with something on the floor and usually it is something out of the lower galley cabinet. I have yet to find door and drawer latches that are appropriate. A quick fix was needed.

I cut a couple sections of aluminum flat stock, bent them, painted them and drilled mounting holes. I cut a piece of 1 x 2 wood stock, riveted the brackets to the inside of the cabinet and had a solution to my problem all with materials I had sitting around. It worked well on our trip to Yosemite!

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Old 12-07-2014, 11:49 PM   #1307
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1982 28' Airstream 280
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We haven't had much rain at all in Calif for about 3 years, but at least for now that seems to be over. It has rained almost non-stop for the past couple of weeks with more to come. That's a good thing unless you own a 30+ year old classic Airstream motorhome!

My windshield has leaked for ever but with the returning rains, the leak has turned into a river. I didn't think of putting a salad bowl on the dash under the mirror to catch the rain water when we returned from Yosemite a couple weeks back. Carpet in the cab is all wet and the water leaked down onto my dash stereo. I thought it crapped out but after drying out of a couple of days it is working again.

All 110v power was working fine a couple weeks back, but when I arrived at the MH a couple days back, the power was out. My surge protector had shut all the power off. Long story short, I have a direct short between the hot leg and ground in the line running from the outlet at the front of the galley to the outlet in the salon. Of course no way to fix it since the wiring is impossible to get to in the walls and ceiling.

This is the "front" circuit on its own breaker. Interesting thing is that the surge protector/power control unit shut off all power before the breaker was able to trip. So of course the batteries eventually drained. The refrig is on this front circuit so of course the refrig has been out of a week or two. I threw the butter and mayo out!

I think my solution will be to run a new circuit from the 110v panel to the salon outlet. I'll have to run this under the floor of course and I hope I don't incur too may haters for doing so! LOL! Hopefully, I can find a circuit breaker to fit that 30+ year old panel somewhere out there on the internet! I can't live without that salon outlet. I need it for the TV, the electric heater, the laptop and to recharge my "i" devices!

I got here Thursday night and was awake most of the night because the propane/co detector kept going off all night long. It was located on the wall next to the door close to the floor. The batteries on the 280 are located under the floor at the door. The off gassing of the batteries seems to set off the detector when the converter is charging the batts at a high voltage. This has been happening for a long time. So its time to move the detector to a different location.

I still have to pull out the furnace guts to find the problem with it...I'm sure its a blown circuit board. Whats another $129 dollars spent on the "classic"?

Last but not least...well I'm sure it won't be last...I have another rain water leak at the rear of the motorhome. Not the major leak from the awning rail that ruined my bath and bedroom floor a few years back. That area is dry. On the 280 rear bath there is a closet in the rear left corner. It is on the floor in this corner where the drains for the cold and hot water lines are. When I got here a couple days ago, I closed the drains and took a look back in that corner...the plywood flooring back there is wet...damn rain!!!! I know the awning rail is not leaking again. I'm also certain that the running lights and tail/brake lights are not leaking...I made sure they were sealed well when I sealed the awning rail. Only thing left is the rear window. Rain leaks are a pain and have put my love/hate meter into the red of the hate side at the moment!




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Old 12-08-2014, 11:41 AM   #1308
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I feel your pain brother, hope you figure it out, and all is well.
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Old 12-08-2014, 06:19 PM   #1309
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I feel your pain brother, hope you figure it out, and all is well.
A big ditto from us as well!!

Keep going, your posts are what keep us going when we are in the red!
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Old 12-08-2014, 10:34 PM   #1310
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Thanks Vycan and wxbuoy!


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Old 12-08-2014, 10:47 PM   #1311
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I moved the gas/co detector to a new location last night to see if it would help in not setting it off all night long.

it only went off once and this time it was the CO alarm that sounded. This happened shortly after I turned off the Mr. Heater. I opened the roof fans for a bit and all was good.

Today, I began the permanent move of the detector to the galley cabinet next to the refrig. The wheel well is behind this panel so after doing some careful measuring to make sure there was enough depth for the detector, I cut the whole. I also made a cover plate for the old location. I'll work on running the wiring behind the refrig tomorrow...supposed to not be raining tomorrow!

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Old 12-09-2014, 07:54 PM   #1312
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In between watching John Wayne movies today, I finished moving the propane/CO detector.

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Old 12-09-2014, 08:06 PM   #1313
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Very neatly done! I like the use of zip ties to minimize the rat's nest look of cables everywhere, and then when I thought 'man this guy's organized and knows what he is doing' you added a cable shroud. My compliments on your attention to detail.
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Old 12-09-2014, 08:33 PM   #1314
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Very neatly done! I like the use of zip ties to minimize the rat's nest look of cables everywhere, and then when I thought 'man this guy's organized and knows what he is doing' you added a cable shroud. My compliments on your attention to detail.

Thanks Vycan! zip ties...greatest invention since sliced bread!


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Old 12-09-2014, 10:40 PM   #1315
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1982 28' Airstream 280
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SERIOUS QUESTION...

I'm looking for a TV antenna that works.

A TV antenna not made in China.

I have gone through three antennas over the last couple of years. They have all been made in China and none of them work...or at least they don't work very long.

I'm looking for a conventional antenna to mount on my cargo trailer and then run coax to the MH. Distance between trailer and mh is about 20 feet. When I'm at the ranch property, I get half the stations from Redding and the other half from Chico. Antenna needs to be rotated about 45 degrees between the two cities.

I would like to rotate the antenna remotely from within the MH. As the crow flies, Redding is about 25 miles away and Chico is about 50 miles away. When the antennas is have had worked, there is no problem bringing in the signal.

The antenna also requires a booster, which has come with the past three antennas that I have had.

I no longer wish to spend my money on cheap China made products. They either do not work out of the box or they work for a very short period of time.

I'm going nuts over something as simple as a TV antenna. Satellite TV works well here but at $60+ a month it is not practical for me with the limited time I spend here and spend watching tv.

I'm seriously about to loose it!!!! LOL!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!



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Old 12-11-2014, 08:46 AM   #1316
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The Winegard that mine was beaten to death by the PO. I replaced it with a jack antenna that I wouldn't have to remember to lower. It worked well but failed on our first trip just when we needed it most as we were trapped in an unexpected spring blizzard in northern Minnesota. They provided a new head which worked. I assume something in the amplifier or a connection inside the head failed. It's worked well since.
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