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Old 10-21-2012, 03:52 PM   #869
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Originally Posted by dadstoy View Post
I've been looking at that Holly 12-802-1 fuel pump. It's a bit pricy but what the heck!
Even better is they sell repair kits for these pumps. We use this same pump on my wife's race car. Buy a kit and keep it in your spares.

Brad
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Old 10-21-2012, 04:40 PM   #870
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1979 28' Airstream Excella 28
Commerce , Michigan
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I put an electric pump on in august and i used a delco made for olds 88 models that have the same qudrajet setup as our mh. In 76 and later eldrarados and 88 gm had an electric back at the tank as well as the mech on the engine. The electric is 8psi and was ment to feed the return style mech pump to stop vapor lock. I got mine off ebay for $47. They are very robust and very low current draw 4-6 amp. I used the air bag solenoid power to pull a relay and took the power off the 2ga lead to the genset
I also mounted a water seperating filter in front of the electric pump. Noticeably quicker starts after sitting and no more low fuel power loss uphill.
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Old 10-21-2012, 06:02 PM   #871
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I've just finished installing a pump on my 310. It' probably adding another 15 mph to the top speed now. Seems much smoother and rally takes off when I stamp on the throttle.
I used a 5.5 psi pump with built in filter from Webcon who make Weber carbs I think. Cost me about 60. It's powered thru a 30amp relay fed from the engine battery and housed in the battery box, It' switched with a long wire from the ignition switch run along the chassis. I plan to install a dash light that comes on showing that there is power getting to the pump.
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Old 10-25-2012, 09:41 PM   #872
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Let's chat more about that. What kind of price is he getting...just curious.
Well, I did manage to get some information a while back. Keep in mind this is all based on a telephone conversation I had with a CNC tube bending shop. The minimum base cost for fabricating a stainless tube to match the hose would be about $250 with the cost likely to be more depending on the difficultly factor. So assuming I got by with the initial $250 I would receive one tube. The problem is since a rubber hose is flexible (even with a spring inside) it isn't necessarily in the exact shape it would be when it is connected between the radiator and engine.

If it doesn't fit which would be my assumption then they would have to do the setup again. This time around it would cost less the second time because they would just have to tweak their original setup. So for $xxx (assume $100) more I now have a second tube to try. Now lets say the second tube worked that means we're at $350 for the first tube.

There is a setup fee for each run that if I remember right it was about $100. So we're sitting at $450 and he said each tube would probably cost about $40 each. So for 10 tubes the cost per tube actually works out to be about $85 plus shipping. Keep in mind there is no guarantee the 2nd run would be correct either.

Also there was some question as to whether they could achieve the bend radius required. Of course all of this based on telephone conversation with someone who had not seen the original hose so the numbers could be higher or even lower. For the moment I don't think I will pursue this approach.

I think what I am going to look into next is something I believe Dean suggested which is to take the hose to a muffler shop and see if they can duplicate it. I'll probably do that sometime next week.

Brad
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Old 01-14-2013, 11:13 PM   #873
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1982 28' Airstream 280
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A Snowy Update

Winter came quick! We had our last great ride out in the back yard, then next thing we knew, we had 9 inches of snow. Now it will be lots of riding in the mud!

The weather report was predicting a lot of rain and snow, so it was certainly time to prepare for the winter. It took a day for the snow to begin to stick to the ground. By the next morning we had about 6 inches. The following day, we lost power for about the next 28 hours. I got out the Yamaha 2000 generator to keep things powered up during that time.

I still have a water leak at the top center of the windshield. I've taped the windshield as much as possible and it hasn't made a dent in the leak. I can't figure out where the water is getting in.

I've got a few more parts to install...a new furnace and propane regulator, electric fuel pump, new carpet up front and I'm ready to redo the galley counter top.
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Old 01-14-2013, 11:15 PM   #874
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A Few More Snow Pics

A Few More Snow Pics...
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Old 01-15-2013, 04:37 AM   #875
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Yuk, SNOW!!

Actually a lot of beautiful views from those pictures

As for your leak unfortunately it could be from just about anywhere up front. Areas that I know you have to seal are the entire front windshield with the appropriate sealant for windshields (all seams except for along the very bottom), along the top and and trailing edges of the cockpit windows with vulkem, all of the running lights inside where the wires enter into the coach with vulkem. You might also check all of the seams where the skin overlaps. John (shepherd57) described to me how he could slip a .010" feeler gauge in plates between the skin overlap areas. Once he sealed with vulkem the leak stopped.

Considering your weather right now you may not be able to do anything about it until it warms up some.

Brad
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Old 01-15-2013, 11:34 AM   #876
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Great pics Dean!
Looking forward to your updates on work in hand!
Is it possible one or more of your upper marker lamps is leaking? Also think you have the spotlight on your roof, maybe that is another possibility?
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Old 01-15-2013, 01:59 PM   #877
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Dean, do you keep the furnace on when she's sitting on the ground, or do you use ceramic heaters?
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Old 01-16-2013, 12:11 AM   #878
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bkahler View Post
Yuk, SNOW!!

Actually a lot of beautiful views from those pictures

As for your leak unfortunately it could be from just about anywhere up front. Areas that I know you have to seal are the entire front windshield with the appropriate sealant for windshields (all seams except for along the very bottom), along the top and and trailing edges of the cockpit windows with vulkem, all of the running lights inside where the wires enter into the coach with vulkem. You might also check all of the seams where the skin overlaps. John (shepherd57) described to me how he could slip a .010" feeler gauge in plates between the skin overlap areas. Once he sealed with vulkem the leak stopped.

Considering your weather right now you may not be able to do anything about it until it warms up some.

Brad
Hi Brad,

This elusive leak is driving me crazy. I've taped over just about everything I could yet it still leaks at the same volume of water. I haven't given up though. The snow should be gone now and it will be in the 60's up there next week!
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Old 01-16-2013, 12:16 AM   #879
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Great pics Dean!
Looking forward to your updates on work in hand!
Is it possible one or more of your upper marker lamps is leaking? Also think you have the spotlight on your roof, maybe that is another possibility?
Hi Steve,

Just when I think I've done enough projects, a new task list seems to find it's way into my hands! No spotlight but i will reseal the marker lights.
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Old 01-16-2013, 12:30 AM   #880
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Dean, do you keep the furnace on when she's sitting on the ground, or do you use ceramic heaters?
Hi Mike,

I have two portable electric heaters that I use in the winter, but when the temp really drops, I have to use the furnace as well. When the power went out and I used the portable Yamaha 2000 generator, it only would power one electric heater.

When i have the MH on a space and I'm not there, I do leave it plugged into shore power to keep the batteries charged and the refrig running, but I dont have any of the heaters nor furnace on. There hasn't been any deep freezing yet but I did drain the water when I left for home last week.
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Old 01-16-2013, 06:45 AM   #881
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Hi Brad,

This elusive leak is driving me crazy. I've taped over just about everything I could yet it still leaks at the same volume of water. I haven't given up though. The snow should be gone now and it will be in the 60's up there next week!
Sounds like it might be coming from somewhere farther back on the coach. Is the coach sitting dead level right now or is the back end sitting a little higher?

I can vouch for the fact that trying to find and stop a leak on these things is almost an effort in futility I still have to do the vent stacks (new caps should be here this week) and the A/C gasket. I'm hoping once those are done I will have seen the end of the leaks.

Good luck!

Brad
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Old 01-16-2013, 09:39 AM   #882
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Geez, I hope you find the leak, maybe I'll get some insight. I've had one in my roof since I bought the coach I've never located. It only leaks when the coach is at a paticular angle. I have a feeling it was a factory defect as the original owner tried to fix it by caulking the INSIDE where the water came in!
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