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Old 05-14-2012, 09:24 PM   #561
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2005 25' International CCD
Leesburg , Georgia
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Originally Posted by dadstoy View Post
I installed my brake controller, ran some wire and wired up a seven pin connector at the rear. The hitch is welded to C cross member that is attached directly to the main frame rails (no extensions on the frame to hitch like on the longer chassis). I figured I'll be about 2500 lbs. my dad towed a 3000 car for years. I'll let you know if the hitch is still attached after my trip to Coos Bay next month!
Wiring in a brake controller is the final piece of my hitch upgrade. The brake controller for my 345 tag is of the old hydraulic kind. Not sure whether to buy another one of the same from ebay, or go with a newer electronic one, so left it as is to ruminate on. Your install looks neat, any snafus to look out for Dean?
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Old 05-14-2012, 10:35 PM   #562
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Quote:
Originally Posted by elbundi

Wiring in a brake controller is the final piece of my hitch upgrade. The brake controller for my 345 tag is of the old hydraulic kind. Not sure whether to buy another one of the same from ebay, or go with a newer electronic one, so left it as is to ruminate on. Your install looks neat, any snafus to look out for Dean?
It's fairly straight forward. The elect controllers have four wires; 12v, ground, brake switch and brake wire. I ran the 12 v and ground up to the firewall and connected 12 v to my engine battery main connection that I have on the firewall and ran the ground to the firewall frame. I connected the brake switch wire to the brake switch at the top of the brake pedal. I used a 12v tester to see which of the two wires on the brake switch was only hot once the brake pedal is pressed. I ran a 12 gauge wire from the blue controller wire all the way back along the frame to the 7 pin connector on the rear bumper. I just routed it along other wiring running to the rear and secured with lots of zip ties (I use lots of them). Then I ran a 12 gauge wire from the engine battery under the entry door to the 7 pin connector on the rear bumper.

The MH was originally wired with a round five pin connector. These are now obsolete. I also had a flat four pin connector at the rear bumper, but it was not wired as a standard four pin connector. The four pin was wired for the Honda my dad towed. I believe the Honda requires four wires for tail, turn and brake lights where as most American cars and trailer use a three wire system. The standard four and seven pin connector wiring is very standard and straight forward. I cut off the old four pin connector and wrapped up those wires so they would not ground out on anything. I cut off the obsolete five pin connector and used a 12v tester to see which wire was activated when turning on left and right turn signals and tail lights. The blue wire on the seven pin connector is wired to the brake wire I ran from the controller. The black on the connector is wired to the 12 volt wire I ran from the engine battery (with a automatic resettable fuse). The white on the connector is wired to the frame.
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Old 05-14-2012, 10:50 PM   #563
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I also worked on making all the turn signals and running lights work correctly. A couple were wired very strangely and I think that was to make the turn, tail and brake lights work on the Honda my dad towed. For example, the right lower ramming light blinked when the left turn signal was turned on. The outer tail light also was intermittent with a bad socket, so I replaced the can with one of the extras I have. It's nice to have all the lights working correctly...at least for now!
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Old 05-14-2012, 10:57 PM   #564
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I'm really hoping I fixed my rain leak. I've laid the bath tile
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Old 05-15-2012, 10:52 AM   #565
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Looking GOOD Dean!

If anyone plans to do any electrical work, I cannot speak highly enough of the PowerProbe 3 I bought last year.
It has earned its $100 price tag 5 times over since December, and I have not even used it on the Airstream yet!
It connects to the battery, and the probe tells you as soon as you touch anything, whether its live or earth, with a LED and Tone... That way, also with its 20'+ of cable, as will often be the case, you can hear it too, if you are say wiggling wires or turning on switches at the other end of the rig.
After that, by way of the rocker switch on the handle, you can supply power or earth to the componant.
I too have some odd wiring on my rear marker lamps... some work with the LED's and some won't and as you know LED's are polarity sensative, so I assume thats the prob. The Powerprobe will get that figured out in a moment!
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Old 05-16-2012, 12:30 AM   #566
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Looking GOOD Dean!

If anyone plans to do any electrical work, I cannot speak highly enough of the PowerProbe 3 I bought last year.
It has earned its $100 price tag 5 times over since December, and I have not even used it on the Airstream yet!
It connects to the battery, and the probe tells you as soon as you touch anything, whether its live or earth, with a LED and Tone... That way, also with its 20'+ of cable, as will often be the case, you can hear it too, if you are say wiggling wires or turning on switches at the other end of the rig.
After that, by way of the rocker switch on the handle, you can supply power or earth to the componant.
I too have some odd wiring on my rear marker lamps... some work with the LED's and some won't and as you know LED's are polarity sensative, so I assume thats the prob. The Powerprobe will get that figured out in a moment!
Thanks Steve.

I would love to have the PowerProbe.
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Old 05-16-2012, 04:07 AM   #567
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A common problem with retrofitting is that newer toads have in-line diodes that block the old wiring signals...we all know I'm not into cosmetics, so I use the standard flat four wire and magnetic taillights...had them for 6 years, had to replace the connection once when SOMEONE didn't connect them and the toad kinda just ran over the wire and removed a significant length...they will scratch the surface of the trunk, over time, but there I go with "So what?"...it's a '95 Nissan...I'm a '48 model, myself, and I have quite a few scratches, too...and, no, any offers to polish me will be denied...
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Old 05-16-2012, 10:10 AM   #568
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A common problem with retrofitting is that newer toads have in-line diodes that block the old wiring signals...we all know I'm not into cosmetics, so I use the standard flat four wire and magnetic taillights...had them for 6 years, had to replace the connection once when SOMEONE didn't connect them and the toad kinda just ran over the wire and removed a significant length...they will scratch the surface of the trunk, over time, but there I go with "So what?"...it's a '95 Nissan...I'm a '48 model, myself, and I have quite a few scratches, too...and, no, any offers to polish me will be denied...
I definately think that is the way to go.
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Old 05-16-2012, 11:07 AM   #569
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You want to polish Mike? LOL
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Old 05-16-2012, 05:34 PM   #570
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You want to polish Mike? LOL
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Old 05-16-2012, 06:00 PM   #571
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.I'm a '48 model, myself, and I have quite a few scratches, too...and, no, any offers to polish me will be...
I thought this might be what dadstoy was referring to when he said that would be the way togo
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Old 05-16-2012, 06:57 PM   #572
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you really shouldn't polish panache, no matter how scratched I am...m
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Old 05-18-2012, 11:50 PM   #573
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A/C wiring diagram for my '82

I'm trying to figure out why the connection to 3M on the resistor when the fan switch is on high?
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Old 05-19-2012, 08:56 PM   #574
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I see 1, 3, and 4 on high. I think you forget that 3 is connected to the resister since 4 connects direct to the fan motor. The switch just adds 3 because of the internal configuration of the poles on the switch. I may have 3or 4 reversed
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