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Old 08-11-2016, 09:58 PM   #1
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2001 27' Safari
1995 36' Classic 36
Ambler , Pennsylvania
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Cummins 5.9 Won't shut off

Hey fellows . I thought i would seek some experienced help for a problem with my 1994 cummins 5.9BT engine. i have 47,000 miles on my MH , a 1995 yr model. Yesterday after a 100 mi drive the engine wouldn't shut off at the ignition key. had to disconnect the fuel cut off solenoid
checked voltage on the hold and pull wires at the cut off solenoid both has 12.5 v and in the proper sequence of on and start positions on the key.
pulled ignition switch nothing obvious there. solenoid on the panel behind the dash handling the ignition was working . solenoid in the rear of the frame near the engine also appeared to be operating correctly. installed a new fuel cutoff solenoid as the original was fairly warn and the problem continues with the new unit. i did check the fuel valve itself with out the solenoid connected and i could stop the engine manually closing the valve
with the key in the run position i get 12.5 v on the hold wire but turning the key off doesn't shut her down on start the pull wire voltage is 12.5v
with the engine stopped there is no voltage on the hold wire BUT when the engine is running i wonder if a diode is leaking current back to the solenoid from the alternator to keep the fuel valve open after the key is off but the engine running.
any of you guys have who have an idea i would appreciate your comments
i had the alternator rebuilt to 150 amps after the 85 amp quit on me about 4000 miles ago.
never had this problem before
I'm on the road and will be traveling tomorrow. ill just fire up in the morning and let her run till I'm done for the day then pull the plug
regards
Sasquatch
95 Classic 360
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Old 08-12-2016, 08:25 PM   #2
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Have you pulled back the harness wrap to ensure you do not have a short from brittle wire insulation?
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Old 08-12-2016, 09:06 PM   #3
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It sounds like the alternator is keeping it running there is a diode on gm alternator switch side.
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Old 08-12-2016, 11:09 PM   #4
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Possible short to hot on your wiring harness? The soleoind is spring loaded so when it loses power it shuts off. If in off there is power to it then its either a bad switch or a short to hot in the harness.
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Old 08-12-2016, 11:11 PM   #5
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I would think that you could prove your theory by disconnecting the wires from the alternator, then start the engine and then see if it shuts off with the key. If it does then you have answered your question about the alternator. If it dose not then you have either a new short to find or the heat has developed a short somewhere in your harness. Good Luck. Regards, Bob
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Old 08-13-2016, 08:22 AM   #6
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Hey Richard do you remember when you were at the rally in Penn Wood when we were metering voltages at your battery isolator. Didn't we get 12 volts at all three terminals with the engine off? I thought that was odd but it may not have anything to do with your current problem. I would think it would be at your ignition switch or downstream.


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Old 08-13-2016, 12:16 PM   #7
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That is odd, at least how I understand how the diode isolator works. 3 terminal. One to house bat, one to chassis bat, one to alternator. With the motor off, the alternator terminal should read "0". But have no idea if related to the problem.
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Old 08-16-2016, 05:14 PM   #8
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Fellas
Thanks for all the helpful suggestions all of which I checked out on the rig
Current status is I concluded that the alternator was putting out on an intermittent basis and some how when acting up it was feeding 12v to the hold wire on the fuel shutoff solenoid. Beats me how these gremlins work their magic??
I was in Alamosa deciding how to proceed to Durango and decided to disconnect the alternator entirely form the battery isolator as it wasn't working any way
After the alternator was out of the system the engine started and shut off just like it should with the key
Today if fired up early and took Co 285 S to Co 17 and ran Cumbres Pass (10.1k ft ) a two lane road sections with 6.5 + % grades
I did this in the morning with temps in the 50s
I also unhitched the toad and let DW drive that so my dog and I didn't have to hear the screaming and hollering on the turns on the western downslope
Rig ran just great
La Vetta Pass the other day was my traing ground for climb outs
Today I kept the Cummins in 3rd or 4th as appropriate revs between 2,100 - 2,400 and temps neve exceeded 190f which is pretty good for this pure stock engine and a full loaded rig
Got into Durango no problems ran the Onan gen to keep battery banks topped off put it in camp and went over to Napa and got me a new alternator and serpentine
Either I'll put it on or take it to a shop recommended to me and have them do it. Camps don't like you working on rigs generally
Waiting now for the Wally SW caravan tour to start on the 20th
For those of you looking for an alternative to Wolf Creek Pass I highly recommend Cumbres Pass
Little traffic curves ok 2 lane only and no pull offs but a beautiful drive. ( no guard rails you are expected to say on the pavement and not go over the edge)
Again many thanks for all your help
I have another 5,000 mi to go before I get back to Pa in November or December so I expect more stuff to break and will be seeking advice
Regards
Richard
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Old 08-16-2016, 06:15 PM   #9
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Richard, is this another alternator? Didn't you just replace one in May? You might want to take a good look at that battery isolator. You should not have any voltage on that center terminal by my thinking. Good luck and safe travels. Hope your dog is getting around OK. I know what it is like.

Lance Mehes


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Old 08-16-2016, 07:25 PM   #10
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If it's a rebuilt alternator it's understandable.....I service two alternator/starter rebuild shops.....again you get what you pay for. Most rebuilding shops reuse the diode assembly as this is one of the more expensive parts....enough said. regards, Bob
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Old 08-16-2016, 07:33 PM   #11
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What type of alternator is it ?
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Old 08-16-2016, 08:35 PM   #12
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Fellas
Just a PS to my previous reply
I got from Napa a new not rebuilt alternator rated at 79 amps @ 2000 rpm which I believe is stock amps ( 154 amps @ 6,000 rpm which I won't be cranking) # 1N-8615 $145.00. China of course!!
I'll have my old one rebuilt at home and carry a spare

Some additional comment on Cumbres Pass
Be advised that Co17 from Antonit to Chama is Open Range
SO- absolutely expect to find livestock wandering on the road all the way up and down. Be careful of coming around a blind S curve as you may find 10,000 lb of of beef on the road. Going up ain't so bad due to lower speed but on decent be prepared to deal with cattle and deer
Those of you who like to live on he edge like the 18 wheeler in front of me and use Georgia overdrive on the down slope I would suggest you might want to strap on some Depends prior to running the pass
Cattle and no place to go at 75 mph can be a cathartic experience
Regards
Richard
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Old 08-16-2016, 11:46 PM   #13
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The alternator that went out on my way to the June rally had an unknown history
I had that alternator rebuilt from 85> 150 amps
Bad Idea. I also replaced the battery isolator at the same time as my old 100 amp was bad. I put in an new 200amp
Both the rebuilt alternator and battery isolator worked fine for about 4,000 then the dash volt meter periodically would drop from 14 >12 then after a few minutes come back up to 14
I drove from Philadelphia to Bar harbor then to Colorado Springs where the problem with engine nit shutting down and belt squeal started
Put in a new Cummins fuel shut off solenoid but still had the problem with the hold wire energized after the key was turned off
Probably an internal diode issue
Then I got to the point of no alternator output by the time I got to Alamosa
Totally disconnected the alternator from the system and isolator then things were back to normal
Bob is probably right about the rebuild being shoddy
Fortunately I don't have to have a working alternator to continue on
The Napa alternator I got today is new not rebuilt but of course built in China
So who knows ?? Amps look right at 79 for my rpm range and it is clean and shiny Who knows what is inside???
Thanks fellas for your interest and help
Regards
Richard
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Old 08-16-2016, 11:57 PM   #14
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By the way the Cummins fuel shut off isolater I bought at Rocky Mtn Cummins in Henderson Co is a much more robust updated version ( not Chinese) it should be for nearly $400 substantial difference between the old and new model I think that new one could pull a 400 lb pig through a 6 inch pipe. Very robust
It is much larger and heavier and you need to remove the old mounting bracket and replace it with the new one Cummins designed for the larger unit
A real bear to get at the lower mount bolt on that job
Regard
Richard
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