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Old 05-18-2014, 08:50 PM   #15
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Was it hard to get the driver and passenger windows out? How did u do it?
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Old 05-18-2014, 08:51 PM   #16
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As far as radi goes as long as you get one with video in you should be ok.
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Old 05-19-2014, 05:30 AM   #17
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Originally Posted by ASTailgate View Post
Was it hard to get the driver and passenger windows out? How did u do it?
It's still there, just slid forward all the way. By the way AST, beautiful coach, but I'm curious, what was the weight before you renovated and what was it afterward?

As for back up camera's, here's my take. Wireless ones can be a pain considering the length. If you use a wired camera I would imagine 16 or 18 gauge wire would be just fine BUT and this is a HUGE BUT……the camera will only be able to give you a view of the bumper and beyond. I can't begin to tell you how many Airstreams, trailers included, including MY 310 MH that has had damage to the top corners backing up into eaves of houses and tree branches. Mine was repaired by a PO, but it caused significant damage to the top corner and curved glass.
Nothing replaces a set of eyes on the ground behind you, even if you have to ask someone for help (trust me, everyone wants to help an Airstreamer), tell them where you want to go, point out hazards to them and have them point for you. Give them the hand signals you want them to use and take it slow.
Just MHO.

Cheers
Tony
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Old 05-19-2014, 06:36 PM   #18
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AST, The driver and passenger windows are pretty straight forward. There are several threads on the subject. The best one was by a guy I believe was a minister but don't recall his name. Maybe someone who recalls can chime in. key is to pull all the rubber out. Mine came out with a vicegrip and brute force (mine was extremely rotten). I used a little pic tool from Harbor Freight (well worth the $3 investment). to remove the fuzzy schlagle. As I recall you close the window fully and remove as much of the fuzzy schlagle as possible, then open the window and remove all the fuzzy schlagle. I got it started with the pic then got a vicegrip on it. It is glued in and can be challenging. Once the fuzzy schlagle is all removed the glass is very loose and will rattle around freely. Raise the glass up tight in the top track and ease it out of the bottom track. When I had it all apart I cleaned it good and repainted it. I used duplicolor metalic wheel paint and was pleased with how it turned out. One thing about it if you are working outside , at any point in the process you can simple slip the glass back into the frame without any of the weatherstripping and stop 98% on the rain. One trick was to cut a little slot int the center divider to give you a way to get it started in the track. Glue the fuzzy schlagle back in with a few dabs of weatherstrip adhesive. Lubricate the vinyl with dish soap
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Old 05-19-2014, 06:45 PM   #19
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I just did a search and the guy went by 'Chaplain
Kent'. Also attached a photo of the finished product. I got all the pieces from Inland RV. Just tell them you want to do the driver and passenger windows and they will know what lengths of what material,
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Old 05-20-2014, 05:56 AM   #20
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Nice, Thank You. I'll try my hand at it once I get my truck back from the shop.
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Old 06-29-2014, 01:35 PM   #21
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Okay, not as much progress as I had hoped for but, there were some delays (life happens). I had to really work at it to find someone to sell me Coosa Blueboard 26. It is an industrial product that is used in the boat building industry. It appears it would much easier to find on the coast where they actually build boats. I finally found Composites One and they did a great job of getting me the info I needed and getting it shipped to me. Since I decided to spend the extra money to use the Coosa I decided to go back and demo more of the plywood out. I finally got to the point where all the plywood was gone from the front of the MH and back 12'. I cleaned up all the steel frame and treated it with POR-15 this weekend. I will start putting it back together this week.
first pic shows plywood removed by cutting ot out as close to the wall as I could get with a skilsaw.
Second pic shows cutting the remaining wood as close as possible with the sawzall.
third pic shows some of the tools I used.
fourth pic shows how I pried the aluminum channel back into shape where the screws had distorted it.
fifth pic shows how I cut the remaining plwood it the channel to get the pieces out.
sixth pic is a tool I made to reshape the channel so it was consistently 5'8" clear.
seventh pic shows the tool in action along with the 5/8" gauge block I made out of the plywood I was removing. Make sure the gauge block will slide through the channel through it's entire length, otherwise it will be extremely difficult to get the new material back in.
One last comment, I found that a 1/2" straight router bit chucked up in a battery drill works really well to get the last little bit of the wood out of the channel after you have gotten all you can with the sawzall and the prybar and chisel. I likely have more than 40 hours in the floor repair so far.
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Old 07-01-2014, 07:43 PM   #22
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Got the Por-15 finished this weekend. This stuff is supposed to be the best but, it is difficult to apply in this circumstance. They call for rinsing the metal after each proceedure. That is not real easy to do when working inside a MH. If you could hose it down with a garden hose it would be a piece of cake. I did the best I could with a spray bottle and a wet rag. In any event it's done!!! Next step install Coosa Bluewater 26. Finally starting to move forward,seems like I have been taking 5 steps backward for every one step forward.
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Old 07-07-2014, 06:30 PM   #23
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got he coosa board installed over the holiday weekend. I was reluctant to go this route but after working with this material I am convinced I did the right thing. It was $1000 I did not have in the budget. This material is really easy to work with, actually easier than plywood, it is definitely a fiberglass product. The dust is very itchy. I used 3/4" coosa and all I had to do was trim it down to 5/8" where it goes into the perimeter channel. I have read several places on the forum that it is very difficult to slip the plywood into the perimeter channel but, this stuff was a snap to slip into the channel. I do have a slight advantage over the the average airstreamer, As a carpenter I have been installing plywood subfloors for 35 years.
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Old 07-08-2014, 09:43 PM   #24
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I'm glad if my post on Coosa board made you consider it as a replacement for your sub-floor. As a cabinetmaker myself I too found it far easier to work with than plywood.
I did use the Bluewater 20 instead of 26 as I was told that the spans between the gridwork below the floor, and the engineered flooring I was putting in above would easily support the less dense 20.
It's certainly a job I wouldn't want to do again and with the Coosa we have no worries, plus it should increase the resale if a FO can see for themselves the level of professionalism, and quality of products that we put into the renovation.

Good work
Cheers
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Old 07-09-2014, 01:59 PM   #25
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Thanks, Tony
When you replaced your floor did you by chance replace the carpet on the doghouse? I am trying to remove the stereo and the console so I can replace the carpet and can not figure out how they put it together. So for I have removed about 200 tiny staples that hold the carpet to the doghouse but, the console is still quite secure.
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Old 07-20-2014, 07:36 PM   #26
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Finally figured out how to remove the conso;e on the doghouse. It was held in place by about a thousand tiny staples. I don't understand what AS was thinkng when they did it this way. I don't see any way to remove the stereo without removing all the carpet. It you wanted to repair or replace the stereo you were in for a major project. They fuse panel has alot of corrosion on the contacts, I will look into replacing it.
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Old 07-23-2014, 07:15 AM   #27
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you could try using rust removing gel products from auto parts stores, then clean it and use silicone grease (like the stuff you use on spark plugs to keep out moisture). It looks like everything is there, just needs maintenance.
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Old 07-24-2014, 06:13 PM   #28
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Contact cleaner and then a light coating if dielectric grease
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