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Old 09-20-2016, 06:51 PM   #221
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1979 24' Airstream Excella 24
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insulated the fuel line

Bought this insulation to wrap the fuel line from the carb to the fuel pump.

Removed the fuel line at the carb inlet and slipped it down to the fuel pump it was challenging but I finally got it pulled all the way down by snagging it with an over size dental pick and pulling it down. In the process I knocked the heater hose off the water pump fitting and coolant was soon everywhere. Here we go again! Off comes the front wheel and the alternator and I still can barely access the fitting. Apparently the last guy to install the heater hose did not have it pushed all the way on when he tightened the clamp. You can barely see the thing, working mostly by feel. Another 15 minute task that ends up taking 4 hours.
Had a difficult time tensioning the alternator belt but, I got it. While I was there I checked the hydro boost belt. Sure enough that explains why it squeals a little every now and again. Is it possible to tension the hydro boost belt without removing the radiator?
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Old 09-21-2016, 02:55 PM   #222
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gregsch View Post
Bought this insulation to wrap the fuel line from the carb to the fuel pump.

Removed the fuel line at the carb inlet and slipped it down to the fuel pump it was challenging but I finally got it pulled all the way down by snagging it with an over size dental pick and pulling it down. In the process I knocked the heater hose off the water pump fitting and coolant was soon everywhere. Here we go again! Off comes the front wheel and the alternator and I still can barely access the fitting. Apparently the last guy to install the heater hose did not have it pushed all the way on when he tightened the clamp. You can barely see the thing, working mostly by feel. Another 15 minute task that ends up taking 4 hours.
It sounds like that hose was looking for a suitable time to pop off so I hate to say this but I'm glad you had this problem now rather than on the road.

Quote:
Had a difficult time tensioning the alternator belt but, I got it. While I was there I checked the hydro boost belt. Sure enough that explains why it squeals a little every now and again. Is it possible to tension the hydro boost belt without removing the radiator?
Yes, it's definitely possible to tighten with the radiator installed

There is one bolt and one nut that have to be loosened before you can adjust the tension on the belt. There is a 3/8" nut (9/16" wrench) on the lower backside of the ps pump that you access through the left hand front wheel well. There is also a bolt on the front of the ps pump bracket (I think it requires a 3/4" socket) that you access by laying on top of the engine.

Loosen those two fastners and then with a 1/2" ratchet placed in the square 1/2" hole on the power steering pump bracket. Place the ratchet drive in the square hole and use the ratchet handle as a tension lever. You can use this to also release the tension on the belt during installation.

Did this to Peanut and my Argosy just a month or two ago.

Brad
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Old 09-21-2016, 04:33 PM   #223
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... In the process I knocked the heater hose off the water pump fitting and coolant was soon everywhere. Here we go again! Off comes the front wheel and the alternator and I still can barely access the fitting. Apparently the last guy to install the heater hose did not have it pushed all the way on when he tightened the clamp...
Greg, I would consider that a gift to have it happen in your driveway instead sooner or later going down the road.
Brad described the tightening of the power steering/hydro boost pump very well, just do not be tempted to use the tank as leverage for tightening. Its right there and it will screw up your tank seals.
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Old 09-21-2016, 07:02 PM   #224
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I always seem to be lucky that way. When the bake line rusted through on my van it made itself apparent when I backed out of the garage. Brought my son's car home from college to replace the radiator and when I backed it up on the ramps the brake peal went to the floor. No sign of brake trouble up to that time, the brake hose at the caliper just let go.
That being said I just subscribed to Good Sam Roadside Protection.
I just keep thinking of TAP and his misfortunes.
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Old 09-21-2016, 08:01 PM   #225
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I always seem to be lucky that way....
I was very lucky one time, when all the brakes on my 345 locked up while I was trying to pull out of the driveway. Yes, BAM, locked up solid going 5 miles an hour. The only way to get them unlocked, was to carefully loosen the master cylinder bolts. I think the term is called pre-loading of your brake system, due to mismatching parts and it took 200 miles to do so. (200 miles was when I put the new bad Master cylinder in).
But, for my protection, I had the Mexican Shaman on Board, who always claimed that the Airstream Motorhome was a Cuidad (city ) and not just a house....
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Old 09-22-2016, 04:49 PM   #226
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I always seem to be lucky that way. When the bake line rusted through on my van it made itself apparent when I backed out of the garage. Brought my son's car home from college to replace the radiator and when I backed it up on the ramps the brake peal went to the floor. No sign of brake trouble up to that time, the brake hose at the caliper just let go.
That being said I just subscribed to Good Sam Roadside Protection.
I just keep thinking of TAP and his misfortunes.
So THAT's where all of my luck went
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Old 10-05-2016, 07:08 PM   #227
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Adjusting the tension on the power steering pump belt

Thanks for the tip on adjusting the tension on the power steering pump Brad. I was not able to reach it from on top of the engine but, your description helped me locate the bolts and the square hole to tension it. I used a swivel and a couple long extensions on the 1/2" ratchet to put tension on it from behind. A couple 1/2" open end wrenches to loosen the pivot bolt and a 3/8" ratchet to loosen and tighten the top bolt. I did it all in the blind , mostly by feel, from the drivers wheel well.
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Old 10-06-2016, 02:08 PM   #228
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So the next time you do this you're going to do it in the dark....right?
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Old 10-06-2016, 03:57 PM   #229
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I guess I have worked under worse conditions. On the trip to Memphis I replaced the thermostat in the O"Rielly's parking lot . Then a few hours later I installed a fuel pump in this deserted spot.
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Old 10-06-2016, 05:38 PM   #230
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I guess I have worked under worse conditions. On the trip to Memphis I replaced the thermostat in the O"Rielly's parking lot . Then a few hours later I installed a fuel pump in this deserted spot.
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My kinda guy that carries all the tools to do these jobs on the road. Soon you will have to pull a trailer, so you have room for your clothes and food and stuff
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Old 10-29-2016, 01:32 PM   #231
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front end play

Last week on the way to the game she drove beautifully. The next morning as soon as I pulled out of the parking lot I noticed play in the steering. On the highway it was difficult to keep it going straight. Just loose and sloppy like there are several worn out parts. I jacked it up today and looked at it and it appears that the pitman arm is the culprit. The pitman arm pivots on a shaft that is mounted in a cast iron piece that bolts to the frame. It appears that there is a bearing or a bushing in the cast iron piece and it has failed. I will take it apart and see. Any advice on how to repair it and where to locate parts would be appreciated. Thanks
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Old 10-29-2016, 02:17 PM   #232
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Last week on the way to the game she drove beautifully. The next morning as soon as I pulled out of the parking lot I noticed play in the steering. On the highway it was difficult to keep it going straight. Just loose and sloppy like there are several worn out parts. I jacked it up today and looked at it and it appears that the pitman arm is the culprit. The pitman arm pivots on a shaft that is mounted in a cast iron piece that bolts to the frame. It appears that there is a bearing or a bushing in the cast iron piece and it has failed. I will take it apart and see. Any advice on how to repair it and where to locate parts would be appreciated. Thanks
Greg, that cast iron piece is called a bell crank. I think GM calls it an idler pivot.

GM discontinued the bell cranks a long time ago and Supersteer is the only option I know of for a replacement.

Fortunately they aren't that difficult to replace. You'll need to get your front end aligned once it's been replaced. From what I've read and experienced the drivers side takes the most abuse and wears the most.

Brad
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Old 10-29-2016, 04:07 PM   #233
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That's a great video! That's exactly what the play on my Bell crank looks like. $600 ouch!
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Old 10-29-2016, 04:23 PM   #234
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That's a great video! That's exactly what the play on my Bell crank looks like. $600 ouch!
Yep, expensive but the odds are you won't have to replace them ever again
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Old 10-29-2016, 06:25 PM   #235
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Ok, got it apart. There is a little play in the shaft at the bronze bushings. Nothing that looks to me like it would cause the drastic change and all the sudden. I think my next move is to remove the steering stabilizer and see how it feels when not attached to anything.
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Old 10-29-2016, 07:19 PM   #236
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Most suspension parts wear very slowly. If you have some sudden change I suspect something broke or is seriously compromised like the rag joint tearing. Most of the joints are pretty much metal to metal except for the rubber in the inner A frame bushings. Look very closely for cracks that open under load and close when the load is removed. Have somebody crank the steering wheel back and forth while you watch each joint for movement. Good luck.
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Old 10-29-2016, 07:19 PM   #237
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Ok, got it apart. There is a little play in the shaft at the bronze bushings. Nothing that looks to me like it would cause the drastic change and all the sudden. I think my next move is to remove the steering stabilizer and see how it feels when not attached to anything.
you did, of course, check your lower ball joints ?
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Old 10-30-2016, 06:38 AM   #238
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Ok, got it apart. There is a little play in the shaft at the bronze bushings. Nothing that looks to me like it would cause the drastic change and all the sudden. I think my next move is to remove the steering stabilizer and see how it feels when not attached to anything.
I was told that you cant really tell how much play there is by hand. It has to be under load. I bit the bullet on the SuperSteer bell cranks. It hurt but glad I did it. The install isnt bad except on the diesels like mine, the passenger side motor mount makes it nearly impossible to get at one of the mounting bolts. Still not sure how I got that sucker started and tightened up. I sincerely think that any time and money spent on that steering and front suspension is money very well spent. The improvements Ive made have completely changed the driving experience. COMPLETELY! Little bit at a time and youll get it where you want it. MAN your coach is B E A U T I F U L!!!!!

Mike
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Old 10-30-2016, 05:51 PM   #239
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you did, of course, check your lower ball joints ?
Well I looked closely at the ball joints and I don't see a problem. How would you suggest I make a proper inspection of the ball joints?

At this point I have the pitman arm off and both wheels on the ground. Everything seems real tight from the tie rod end through the center rod and over to the other tie rod end. My experience with suspension components tells me you can never fully evaluate the condition of a part when it has weight on it and is connected to other parts. I think I will get the front end up on jack stands and see if that helps isolate the problem. The last few times I have jacked up the front end I have heard a 'clunck' noise that makes me think something is loose.
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Old 10-30-2016, 05:58 PM   #240
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Well I looked closely at the ball joints and I don't see a problem. How would you suggest I make a proper inspection of the ball joints?
.
3/32 isn't much
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