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Old 05-15-2016, 01:18 PM   #141
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On the rough areas where the clearcoat was long gone and the aluminum was pitted I started with F-9. Areas that I stripped off significant clearcoat I started with F-7. Then Nuvite C. The final step was Airbrite #6 with the Cyclo. Took about 200 hours, I think from what I learned in the process I could do it in 140 if I ever do it again.
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Old 05-17-2016, 07:08 PM   #142
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Peter,
You were right about the steel mandrels. Several of them still had the mandrel in them and they were difficult to drill out. The drill bit wanted to drift off to the side in the soft aluminum. I ended up driving the steel out with a small pin punch. Finished it up yesterday.
It's raining now, going out to check for leaks.
o
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Old 05-17-2016, 08:14 PM   #143
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Peter,
You were right about the steel mandrels. Several of them still had the mandrel in them and they were difficult to drill out. The drill bit wanted to drift off to the side in the soft aluminum. I ended up driving the steel out with a small pin punch. Finished it up yesterday.
It's raining now, going out to check for leaks.
o
Yeah, I hate them, mess up your nice drill bit too. Only thing I can figure is that they are stronger than their alu counterpart, since it takes a lot more to snap them.
Good luck on your leak checking, have you made plans for the day when you don't find anymore
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Old 05-18-2016, 07:41 PM   #144
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Only got about a quarter inch of rain last night. Not enough to really test it but, no leaks!!! The only water I saw was in the drivers window track. Somehow it wants to overflow the side of the track that has the weeps and get trapped on the inside. I think I read something around here about AS putting a tube on the inside to weep this out on the newer models. Not sure what to do about that.
Since I have spent the last 6 months chasing and fixing leaks seems like the only logical thing to do was to drill two 7/16" holes in the roof.Click image for larger version

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Installed the combiner box for the solar.
Started mounting the panels on the roof. Bought brackets from Renogy and AMSolar. Neither really impressed me so I made my own. Click image for larger version

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Old 05-19-2016, 08:53 PM   #145
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On the rough areas where the clearcoat was long gone and the aluminum was pitted I started with F-9. Areas that I stripped off significant clearcoat I started with F-7. Then Nuvite C. The final step was Airbrite #6 with the Cyclo. Took about 200 hours, I think from what I learned in the process I could do it in 140 if I ever do it again.
I finally found a "fast" way to do the endcaps. F-7 would not touch it , G6 neither. So I used a sanding pad, went real fast and F-7 took out all the scratches in no time. What did you come up with that would save you so many hours?
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Old 05-21-2016, 11:06 AM   #146
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I finally found a "fast" way to do the endcaps. F-7 would not touch it , G6 neither. So I used a sanding pad, went real fast and F-7 took out all the scratches in no time. What did you come up with that would save you so many hours?
Please describe the sanding process. What kind of power sander? what type of paper?

The biggest thing I would share about polishing is:
1. Never polish in direct sunlight. (I worked almost exclusively in the barn)
2. The polish is temperature sensitive. 65 to 79 degrees is optimum.
3. Learn to work in the 'sweet spot" It's hard to describe but, after you have done it a bit you will just be able to feel it. If you are not in the sweet spot you are not 'cutting' like you want to and when you clean it up you will not see a measurable progression in the process.
4. When it is a little too warm outside to stay in the sweet spot I would mist the surface with water in a Windex bottle and it would start cutting again. You will soon learn the difference between 'cutting, and just gliding over the surface with the pad.
5. Throw your bonnet and your used microfiber pads in a 5 gallon bucket of water with a half cut of Tide with Oxyclean or Gain powder. If you let the rags dry then try to clean them it is not nearly as effective. 10% of you time will be this operation. I let them soak as long as 2 weeks before washing them and they always cleaned up pretty good.
6. Always clean the black gunk off at the end of the day with paint thinner. If you leave it dry on there overnight you will regret it. I put my paint thinner in a squeeze bottle (mine was from a chalk line chalk bottle , a similar ketchup bottle or a Arby's Horsey sauce bottle works just the same.) The squeeze bottle made it real handy to apply the thinner in a controlled fashion. If you drop it no big deal. Drop a gallon metal can and look out!
7. Watch your extension cord, if it leaves marks on the side of the MH wrap tape around it, The really flexible cords work best but they are rubbery and kinda sticky so they leave marks. The cords with the stiff hard jacket don't leave marks but, they will wear you out.
8. My entire body ached the entire time. Use a good scaffold to minimize all the reaching and stretching.
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Old 05-21-2016, 02:01 PM   #147
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Please describe the sanding process. What kind of power sander? what type of paper?

..
I use a fine sanding pad, paint stores sell them.
I timed this section which is about 24"x12". The oxidation was so severe that none of the compounds would touch it. It took about 12 minutes to get it to the stage of the last picture which is first buff with a cyclo, the heads wrapped in white cotton rags using Nuvite C
I used a wool disk for the F7
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Old 05-21-2016, 08:04 PM   #148
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Soo no power sander, just the pad. Did you lubricate the pad or hand sand it dry?

Stopped at the local AS Dealer to look at ordering a new ZipDee and look what I saw in the lot.Click image for larger version

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It was like stepping into a time machine. If I didn't know better I would think it was 2 or 3 years old. The thing was spotless, like it had never been used.
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Old 05-21-2016, 08:34 PM   #149
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Soo no power sander, just the pad. Did you lubricate the pad or hand sand it dry?

Stopped at the local AS Dealer to look at ordering a new ZipDee and look what I saw in the lot.Attachment 262945
It was like stepping into a time machine. If I didn't know better I would think it was 2 or 3 years old. The thing was spotless, like it had never been used.
Hand sand dry, it also takes out those pesky little clear coat spot remnants that will drive you nuts when start polishing.
Looks like a real nice rig. Do you think that pinstriping was original?
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Old 06-01-2016, 06:51 PM   #150
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Looks like a real nice rig. Do you think that pinstriping was original?[/QUOTE]

Everything about it looked original.

Got the solar panels mounted over the Memorial day weekend. Went to the Indy 500 Sunday so not much else got accomplished.Click image for larger version

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I was really concerned about the solar panels taking away from the appearance of this little MH. I purchased the smaller Renogy 100 watt panels. They were a premium price but, I am real happy with the way they look. When I get the awning mounted they will be even less noticeable.
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Old 06-05-2016, 07:29 AM   #151
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Really nice work, hope you can make it to the next "Get-Together", Regards, Bob
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Old 07-22-2016, 08:33 PM   #152
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Progress is still slow and sporadic. I have been working on the carpet, I think it would be easier to carpet an entire house.
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I made a template out of paper and cut the pad to fit. I used a commercial pad designed to glue down, the carpet is then glued to the pad, no tack strips!
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The patterns worked way better than I expected. I made the patterns as accurate as I could then installed them without any trimming!! Time consuming but, very effective.
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When I removed the carpet from the engine cover I found this mess. I guess I should have expected it, all the other plywood in the front of the MoHo was shot.
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Old 07-24-2016, 05:53 AM   #153
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Greg, that pattern is amazingly detailed! I can see why it would fit perfect the first time

All the wood in Peanut's cockpit is shot as well. The drivers side floorboard was so bad I'm surprised someone didn't put a foot through the floor.

Looking good!

Brad
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Old 07-24-2016, 06:31 AM   #154
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You could sell the pattern to other victims. If you had a 310/345 version, I would buy it from you, especially if it would have an access panel for the Master Cylinder incorporated...
There is a reason why people find heavy crystallized sludge in their MCs
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