cole3444 1983 Airstream 310

[cole3444]

I am looking for the belt line corner piece that bolts to my generator door rear corner piece, if anyone knows of one please let me know, trying to work on it in between our wild weather.

[Waipio Rim]

Originally Posted by cole3444

I am looking for the belt line corner piece that bolts to my generator door rear corner piece, if anyone knows of one please let me know, trying to work on it in between our wild weather.

Post #2325 here: http://www.airforums.com/forums/f311...91704-167.html is from a guy who is selling a 280 for parts, maybe he has one.

[cole3444]

I have another issue I need help with, the PO installed a rear view camera on my 310 but ran the wire down the outside by the window into the spare tire cover, is their a easier way to run the wire inside the body without having to drop the rear cap. Any suggestions will be appreciated. I would like to get it protected.

[bkahler]

Originally Posted by cole3444

I have another issue I need help with, the PO installed a rear view camera on my 310 but ran the wire down the outside by the window into the spare tire cover, is their a easier way to run the wire inside the body without having to drop the rear cap. Any suggestions will be appreciated. I would like to get it protected.

There is no easy way to route a wire from the back of the coach to the front without taking down the end caps. Even then you would also need to remove the center panel that runs front to back as well.

Here are some pictures of a gutted 345.

The one possibility that I can think of would be to use an electricians fish tape and have someone poke it through the hole the camera wires come out and push it up and over the end cap to the first roof vent opening. I would place the odds of being able to do that around 10% or less.

Brad

[mayco]

My rear view camera cable run over the end cap and along the awning rail, then down thru the fridge vent and thru the floor. Then back up thru the floor near the heater core behind the kick panel in front of the passenger seat.

[cole3444]

Thanks bkahler and mayco I thought you all would have a magical genie to fix it, but that's what I was figuring since I redid a 31' 72 Sovereign, it would all have to come down, I guess I will make it look pretty where it is because I have no clue where or how it runs inside to my dash monitor, once again thanks for the help.

[Keyair]

Cole, is it OK if I post a link to this thread, and/or snag your engine pics, and use in the thread I am building down in the "Mechanics Corner" on Diesel Conversions?

[mayco]

not sure if yours is the same but in my '82, Ive got upper cabinets across the back and down both sides of the walls....except for the bathroom, shower, and exterior door. If I didn't run the new cable along the same route as the old one, I was thinking about trying to run it through my upper cabinets some how. I didn't pursue the idea very far but it may be another alternative. It could run through the upper cabinets in the rear to a closet, then down through the floor inside the closet. Just an idea.

[cole3444]

Keyair you are more than welcome to use anything in my thread. Mayco I have lights on the sides of the bedroom then cabinets, it could be done but my wife would hang me after her helping me on the 31' Sovereign.

[chiefair]

I had to run new wires to my rear clearance lights. The original wiring had broken off somewhere between the front and back. I also ran a 12V wire to power a “wireless” back up camera.

First I removed the street side rear speaker and sat for hours on the bed poking around with an electrical fish tape. I knew there was a hole through the structure somewhere inside the wall because the speaker wire come up through there.

After a long and frustrating session of poking blindly in the wall, I lucked into a hole. I then drilled a hole into the wall cavity from underneath the motor home and used a second fish tape to poke around forever until I finally snagged the two together and was able to pull the first fish out the bottom using the second one.

I used hole saw and drilled a neat hole in the end cap inside the rear upper cabinet. I pulled new wires from the fuse block up front, all the way to the back along the frame rails. From there I used my fish tape to pull up into the speaker hole. From there I fished the wire into the cabinet.

I cut another hole centered inside the cabinet so I could wire the lights and camera. It took a long time and wasn’t much fun but I covered the holes inside the cabinet and you can hardly tell I was there.

[cole3444]

My step has stopped working now and am trying to find a electric replacement for the vacuum operated step currently mounted. It has a black wire that is tied up underneath that went to the step light. My question is how can I run a 12v supply or can the original wire going to the solenoid work, noticed one wire coming down from door switch to the solenoid then another feeding away from it along with the step light wire. Step worked great until I got it home, anybody have a cure for the vacuum style. Any help would be appreciated.

[bkahler]

Originally Posted by cole3444

My step has stopped working now and am trying to find a electric replacement for the vacuum operated step currently mounted. It has a black wire that is tied up underneath that went to the step light. My question is how can I run a 12v supply or can the original wire going to the solenoid work, noticed one wire coming down from door switch to the solenoid then another feeding away from it along with the step light wire. Step worked great until I got it home, anybody have a cure for the vacuum style. Any help would be appreciated.

The wire coming down from the door should be a positive +12 wire that would signal the steps to extend when the door was opened.

The wire going to the solenoid is most likely from the ignition coil and is a signal for the vacuum steps to retract.

If you switch to electric steps you will need the following wires:

1) Two positive + 12 wires from your coach battery to the steps. One will power the motor the other powers the controls.

2) One wire from the door switch. However this wire needs to be grounded when the door is open so you will need to rework the switch in the door jamb.

3) One wire from the ignition system. The one already there will work fine.

Here is a thread on my 310 electric step conversion.

Brad

[cole3444]

bkahler,

Thanks I forgot about your post on electric step. May pm you when I start about a few things if you have some spare time.

[bkahler]

Originally Posted by cole3444

bkahler,

Thanks I forgot about your post on electric step. May pm you when I start about a few things if you have some spare time.

No problem....

[Isuzusweet]

Mine gave out on me just before going to a motorhome rally. It turned out to be the wire attached to the step had split apart inside the insulation. Cut it, stripped it and connected it back up; five minutes, done.
Also vaccine motor is off mid 60's Corvette headlamp, if you're interested.
Cheers
Sidekick Tony

[cole3444]

Thanks Isuzusweet, on the info about the 60's corvette vacuum motor working on our step. Checked my step today and the button on the door frame will actuate the step if I push it all the way in with a screw driver handle, their is a small piece of aluminum screwed to the door that pushes against the switch but not far enough to actuate does not look factory. Step seems to be ok except for the switch, can they still be bought or will I have to retro fit one. Might look for a vacuum motor also along with a switch and check all wires for damage. Thanks again. Jim

[bobmiller1]

Hey Tony, did you use a quality crimping tool ???

[mayco]

Originally Posted by bobmiller1

Hey Tony, did you use a quality crimping tool ???

I got one from SnapOn that I really like

[Isuzusweet]

Originally Posted by bobmiller1

Hey Tony, did you use a quality crimping tool ???

Yes, only the best tools touch my Mistress.😉

[rmkrum]

I don’t know if we should go for the rimshot, or go ‘eeewww’ to that line[emoji3][emoji3][emoji3][emoji3]