Coach wiring harness to batteries ?

[John H.]

When we purchased our 345 the coach had the Two shut off switches at the door. only one was functional.

At door
1. coach battery disconnect
2. chassis battery disconnect

now the PO. had eliminated the start battery and had a set of 3 deep cycle battery's hooked together.

I have re installed a separate start battery. and a disconnect solenoid for the door switch # 2

Now my question is with the wiring harness for the coach.

There is a RED, Hot from the harness and I have that hooked up and all the interior coach lights work fine.

running with the Red hot, in the harness is a Black wire, same size.

For you guys with the Two switch cut off at door.

Is this ( Black wire ) from the isolator ? for charging the coach battery's. and to be wired to the HOT side of the shut off solenoid.

( or is it a ground wire ? )

the bottom wire has been removed from the isolator.
and taped up.
the top one remains attached and I am getting a charge to the start battery.

Thank you for your help. I am confused at this point.

and the wiring diagram in the manual shows just a one shut off solenoid system.

[raveson]

John,
on my 89 I have the two disconnects and have replaced both as the coach one failed and did not want to get stuck if the chassie one did the same. When plugged into shore power the coach charges and the chassie does not. Gen charges both and running charges both. I have some sort of electrical leak from the chassie that will drain the battery in 4-5 days, so when camping, I use the diconnect on the wall. To find the discharge is not easy to chase. Will be intrested to see replies to your question.

[John H.]

Originally Posted by raveson

John,
on my 89 I have the two disconnects and have replaced both as the coach one failed and did not want to get stuck if the chassie one did the same. When plugged into shore power the coach charges and the chassie does not. Gen charges both and running charges both. I have some sort of electrical leak from the chassie that will drain the battery in 4-5 days, so when camping, I use the diconnect on the wall. To find the discharge is not easy to chase. Will be intrested to see replies to your question.

Thank You raveson. I sure do like your Hadley's.

Well, running another ground wire direct to the starter mount bolt did help. and cleaning, re tightening the Two ground Straps Helped.

If you would Look and see where the Black wire connects that is in the harness with the Red Hot wire for the coach.

[John H.]

Originally Posted by John Haggard

Thank You raveson. I sure do like your Hadley's.

Well, running another ground wire direct to the starter mount bolt did help. and cleaning, re tightening the Two ground Straps Helped.

If you would Look and see where the Black wire connects that is in the harness with the Red Hot wire for the coach.

There is a RED, Hot from the harness and I have that hooked up and all the interior coach lights work fine.

running with the Red hot, in the harness is a Black wire, same size.

For you guys with the Two switch cut off at door.

Is this ( Black wire ) from the isolator ? for charging the coach battery's. and to be wired to the HOT side of the shut off solenoid.

( or is it a ground wire ? )

Thank You
John

[masseyfarm]

John
The only way to ensure what the wire is is to test with a meter or hook up a trouble test light to it and test, with alternator running through the isolator and also on grid power etc.

I include a summary of my own unit which I eliminated the isolator and installed a SurePower Separator. The isolators of your vintage have a voltage drop that can be eliminated with the separator. I did this update a couple years ago and am very pleased with it.
As mentioned in the previous post, the chassis battery is not charged while on shore power unless some modification has been made! The isolator only charges one way.
Dave

Here is what I did on my CLIPPER. (Cummins CT300)
I have a upgraded Delco SI 22 130A alternator, charging 2 X HD wet cell starting batteries, bank #1, (soon to be replaced with the same type), and have removed the ISOLATOR because of the voltage drop.
I have installed a SurePower 1315-200 SEPARATOR.(replaces the isolator) and allows charging both ways over 13.2V.
I have installed a cockpit controlled solenoid between the chassis and the ISOALTOR so I can manually control the combined or separate charge.
I have 4 X 6V T105's for the house bank #2.
I have one Trojan deep cycle wet cell 12V up front for the electronics. This has a charge line from the house battery circuit and another tie to the chassis circuit, which both have manual switches in the cockpit that I control as needed.
Xantrex Freedom Inverter Charger 2000 Watt 12 VDC 3 stage charger for the house #2 battery bank. (will charge all if switches and solenoid activated. AUX diesel 7000W slightly used.
All system are monitored in the cockpit with DIGITAL VOLT GAUGES.
SOLAR: 20W polycrystalline, charge controller, manual switch (to feed chassis or house depending on the need) Can be left on either, depending on solenoid setting between battery bank #1 or #2.
253W polycrystalline panels (4) run thru a MMPT controller to the #2 battery bank.
2 X 5.5W monocrystaline panels (no charge controller) to the #3 battery up front. Powers a 400W invertor for the electronics.

My experience with this setup is:
While camping, if the sun is shinning next day, I can boomdock overnight and leave the house batteries on all the SOLAR and they will completely charge. (in this case I have the solenoid between 1&2 bank connected so that any solar over capacity goes to the chassis battery. If not using the #3 invertor I will tie this panel in also to the house.

When travelling during the sunny day after boomdocking, I will separate the #1, #2, #3 banks. This allows SOLAR to charge the #2 and #3 and the Delco to run the chassis load of DRL, AC, fans, etc.
In theory I should get better fuelmileage as the alternator is not running the # 2 or #3 if not necessary.
NOTE: THE SOLAR WILL NOT PRODUCE IF YOU ARE CHARGING FROM THE ALTERNATOR AT THE SAME TIME AS THE CONTROLLER WILL SIGNAL THE BATTERIES ARE AT CAPACITY.
ALWAYS DOCUMENT UPGRADES SO THAT FUTURE SERVICE WILL BE POSSIBLE WITHOUT UNNECESSARY EXPLORATION COST.

Originally Posted by John Haggard

There is a RED, Hot from the harness and I have that hooked up and all the interior coach lights work fine.

running with the Red hot, in the harness is a Black wire, same size.

For you guys with the Two switch cut off at door.

Is this ( Black wire ) from the isolator ? for charging the coach battery's. and to be wired to the HOT side of the shut off solenoid.

( or is it a ground wire ? )

Thank You
John

[masseyfarm]

John:
After reading this again I misunderstood and thought you were looking at the switch end of the wire trying to determine its source.
I now believe you are needing info at the isolator connection.
On mine the alternator went to the top post on isolator and the two lower posts are connected to the solenoids, the right post goes too the house and left post is for the chassis. I have attached pictures of mine the way it was OEM, and after I made the switch to a SurePower Separator. The pictures are a bit hard to follow but I thought they might help.
Dave

Originally Posted by John Haggard

When we purchased our 345 the coach had the Two shut off switches at the door. only one was functional.

At door
1. coach battery disconnect
2. chassis battery disconnect

now the PO. had eliminated the start battery and had a set of 3 deep cycle battery's hooked together.

I have re installed a separate start battery. and a disconnect solenoid for the door switch # 2

Now my question is with the wiring harness for the coach.

There is a RED, Hot from the harness and I have that hooked up and all the interior coach lights work fine.

running with the Red hot, in the harness is a Black wire, same size.

For you guys with the Two switch cut off at door.

Is this ( Black wire ) from the isolator ? for charging the coach battery's. and to be wired to the HOT side of the shut off solenoid.

( or is it a ground wire ? )

the bottom wire has been removed from the isolator.
and taped up.
the top one remains attached and I am getting a charge to the start battery.

Thank you for your help. I am confused at this point.

and the wiring diagram in the manual shows just a one shut off solenoid system.

[John H.]

Thank you Dave

yes, the Pictures help.

The Red wire to the House side L/R on the isolator ? function, OM where does it go ? connect to Dave.

Thank you

John

[masseyfarm]

John:
I have been looking.
I don't think that is the wire you have. My red wire from the hot side of house solenoid, is just a fuse holder scabbed to a purple c/w white strip that disappears into the bowels of the motorhome wiring. You can see that in the first picture. I disconnected the fuse, but could not determine at this point where it goes. The schematics seem to say it goes to the flood lights, but that is hard to believe. The wire at my coach shut off is not purple/white, so it does not go there, and I checked with the fuse out and the shutoff still works.
I have, since the picture, moved that wire to a new cockpit controlled solenoid that controls the charge between the chassis and house, but it is still mounted on the house side of solenoid.
It is not the same color wire from the solar charge control panel either. The OEM solar wire actually goes to the 12V dist. panel at the foot of the bed.
Now you have me determined to find the answer to my wire.
One thing I do try to do is ID these things when I find out what they are. A piece of masking tape and black felt pen helps with the idenity the next time.
Dave

Originally Posted by John Haggard

Thank you Dave

yes, the Pictures help.

The Red wire to the House side L/R on the isolator ? function, OM where does it go ? connect to Dave.

Thank you

John

[masseyfarm]

John:
In my search I found this which is for a newer schematic than mine.
What gauge wire are you talking about? I assume 12 or 14 ga???
The purple/white (which you see connected to the red fuse holder in my picture above) on this schematic, goes to the LP detector/alarm. I have checked mine now and that is correct on my Clipper. Yours, being an earlier unit, must be a different setup than mine.

http://service.airstream.com/files/l...653fd83d5d.pdf

Dave

[John H.]

yes, Unknown wiring to no where Dave HaHaHa Just Part of the Game.

Just got in from the garage. I will post some pictures tomorrow evening.

[John H.]

Wrapping the exhaust header and collection flow Pipes.

[John H.]

Hope this starter functions for many, trouble free and cooler Years- previous post pictures.
new isolator and organized wiring

[raveson]

Attached are pixs of what I believe to be how the electric was set up by the factory and still is on my 89 345. The cut offs are on the rear of the battery drawer and the isolator is under the hood to the left.

[John H.]

Thank You
that does Help.

You have all helped answer many of my questions.

I also appreciate all of the good Pictures.

John

[John H.]

Now Heavy duty GM. starter and Heat shield installed.

the Ground wire to the Starter Insures an instant Start each and every time

[dadstoy]

Originally Posted by John Haggard

Now Heavy duty GM. starter and Heat shield installed.

the Ground wire to the Starter Insures an instant Start each and every time

John, I've never seen the header wrap tape. tell us more about it...it's benefits and drawbacks if any. What is the compressor used for that you have mounted up front?

[John H.]

The compressor is Primarily for the new Hadley's air reserve tank.

and for axillary air for the front air bags and accessory's, tires.

yes, I also have a 50 ft. air hose that can be run from the rear storage also. coach suspension system.
No, I did not tap into that system.

The Hot rodders were the 1st. to use the Header wrap tape as far as I know. Back in the 40's and 50's I think. ?

The Theory is to get the heat back away from the engine, transmission, coach compartment and wiring as fast as possible before the heat dissipates out through the exhaust plumbing.

More Heat efficiently out the end of the Tube is the Idea.

( I did also order today Two 80 AMP battery circuit breakers. )
Like you show in your pictures. the wiring diagram from A.S. shows these mounted coach, engine side of the shut off solenoid.