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streamquest · 10-20-2011, 09:03 AM

Hi Derek,

I think the product you'll need is determined by the quality and condition of the aluminum that you're starting with, the end result that you're trying to achieve, and the tools that you're using. I recently gave my wheels and bumpers a quick polish just to see what kind of results I might get. They were HEAVILY oxidized and pitted. I don't think there is any hand cleaner/polish that would even touch them, let alone ever give you the instant results that Nuvite F-9 or F-10 and a high speed wheel will achieve on the first cut. And I still have a long way to go on them. But again, I'm starting out with some pretty crappy stuff. Your aluminum is probably in much better shape to begin with. I think you just have to try different products until you're happy with what you're getting.

Charly.

Myrtle lynn · 10-23-2011, 04:06 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by t7389sg

The bumpers come off with 4 Philips head screws. The bumpers over riders are on with 2 nuts. Mark which side they belong on and take note of the beveled washers under the nuts as they are directional as well. The rubber inserts are removable and you can polish the over riders seperate. I had great luck polishing the bumpers as they are high grade aluminum and shine up great.

Ok. I have to polish mine this week. If I ever get it back from muffler shop . Had to have pies removed to have new gaskets installed along with new hangers. he told me that the 454 vibrate out of alignment, as mine did.

alfalsetto · 10-23-2011, 06:23 PM

Their was a person that come to you MoHo an polish it for you at $100.00 a foot (I think that maybe it has gone up) Is he still around Or some one still doing it?

streamquest · 10-23-2011, 07:59 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Myrtle lynn

Ok. I have to polish mine this week. If I ever get it back from muffler shop . Had to have pies removed to have new gaskets installed along with new hangers. he told me that the 454 vibrate out of alignment, as mine did.

Myrtle,

If that moho gets any shinier, I'm going to start a rumor that you've violated the Airstreamer's Code of Honor and had it chrome plated!!

Charly

crazeevw · 10-23-2011, 09:29 PM

Guess I need to purchase some of the medium to coarse grade Nuvite from Vintage Trailer Supply. Got the front and rear end caps of moho stripped during the week. Went to start polishing today, and sure is a BUNCH of oxidation in areas. Moho was stored next to salty water (Tampa Bay, FL area) and have a feeling that the salty air didn't do my aluminum any favors.
Anyone have any suggestions where to start? Would it be better if I posted pix for someone to suggest which grade Nuvite?
Thanks, Derek

Keyair · 10-23-2011, 09:40 PM

Derek, I cannot suggest any better than the G6... its starts coarse and breaks down to medium/fine... it rips off the oxidization and gives you a great shine off the bat.
Take a look at my progress in the polishing section.

streamquest · 10-23-2011, 10:00 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by crazeevw

Guess I need to purchase some of the medium to coarse grade Nuvite from Vintage Trailer Supply. Got the front and rear end caps of moho stripped during the week. Went to start polishing today, and sure is a BUNCH of oxidation in areas. Moho was stored next to salty water (Tampa Bay, FL area) and have a feeling that the salty air didn't do my aluminum any favors.
Anyone have any suggestions where to start? Would it be better if I posted pix for someone to suggest which grade Nuvite?
Thanks, Derek

Derek,

Check out the site called "The Perfect Polish". This guy is a Nuvite dealer. His prices are the same as you would pay if you bought directly from the Nuvite Company in Brooklyn, N.Y. He gives a great breakdown of the entire range of Nuvite products, and discusses the different tools that might be used with them. I think he offers sample packages with small quantities of different grades. That way you can experiment and see what works best for you.

Since this polishing epidemic has spread through several threads, I don't know if you got my suggestion to check out the "Eurostream" site. That guy will give you a very different spin on polishing and tell you that Nuvite is not worth the trouble.

Charly.

Myrtle lynn · 10-24-2011, 07:42 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by streamquest

Myrtle,

If that moho gets any shinier, I'm going to start a rumor that you've violated the Airstreamer's Code of Honor and had it chrome plated!!

Charly

Haha. I have a ways to go before that. Thank you though. Not happy with it yet. Out of the 9 airstreams I polished this thing has been very difficult. On a scale 1-10 this one is a 5. All my others 9-10's I know the metal is different on them all. It's a tough one though.

Myrtle lynn · 10-24-2011, 07:50 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by crazeevw

Guess I need to purchase some of the medium to coarse grade Nuvite from Vintage Trailer Supply. Got the front and rear end caps of moho stripped during the week. Went to start polishing today, and sure is a BUNCH of oxidation in areas. Moho was stored next to salty water (Tampa Bay, FL area) and have a feeling that the salty air didn't do my aluminum any favors.
Anyone have any suggestions where to start? Would it be better if I posted pix for someone to suggest which grade Nuvite?
Thanks, Derek

I like starting at bottom of the Moho. Get familiar with the products. Don't drag out all the ladders / scaffolding. Your cord will not scratch the part on the bottom that is newly polished if your careful when working on the top. Work in sections. If you have to tape off areas and set that area as your goal. Don't jump around stay within the area you marked off. Don't! Do it In The sun. That makes all the difference. For final polishing I am sorry guys you need a cyclo. That gives the best results. Oh the products I have 50 different ones. :-) for now stick with the nuvite. g6 is a good start. Hope this helps. Let me know what other questions you have. Good luck have fun. It can be very relaxing if you make it relaxing. ...... Small areas.....baby steps.... :-)

Myrtle lynn · 10-24-2011, 07:52 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by streamquest

Derek,

Check out the site called "The Perfect Polish". This guy is a Nuvite dealer. His prices are the same as you would pay if you bought directly from the Nuvite Company in Brooklyn, N.Y. He gives a great breakdown of the entire range of Nuvite products, and discusses the different tools that might be used with them. I think he offers sample packages with small quantities of different grades. That way you can experiment and see what works best for you.

Since this polishing epidemic has spread through several threads, I don't know if you got my suggestion to check out the "Eurostream" site. That guy will give you a very different spin on polishing and tell you that Nuvite is not worth the trouble.

Charly.

Yep great site. Also my new favorite is jestco. Love his products. For now stick with nuvite.

crazeevw · 10-24-2011, 08:02 PM

Steve, just ordered the G6 Nuvite from Vintage Trailer Supply. Won't be here in time for my weekday off this week, but should be here by my next day off (Sunday) to get back to the front and rear roof sections. Guess in the meantime, I purchase another container of CitriStrip and get to work on removing the rest of the clearcoat on Wednesday, lol.
Noticed from previous photos, my moho no longer has the bumper guards on the rear bumper. Someone has installed diamond plate where they used to bed. Anyone have any ideas where to search for replacement bumper guards?
Thanks, Derek

streamquest · 10-24-2011, 09:53 PM

Myrtle,

Glad to hear that you too are struggling with the moho finish.
I find that the front corners are the worst. I started with F-7 but couldn't get through the "orange peel" finish texture. I moved to F-10, and still haven't gotten rid of it. I haven't even considered finer polishing until I can get down to a truly smooth surface. Have you tried wet sanding?

Charly.

crazeevw · 10-25-2011, 04:14 AM

Charly, are you removing the clear coat first?

streamquest · 10-25-2011, 12:39 PM

Derek,

Remove ALL of the clear coat from EVERYTHING that you intend to polish before you start to polish. I'm sure you're eager to get going, but this will save you a LOT of time in the long run. (I don't recall if you plan on trying to maintain any factory painted areas or stripes. If so, you will need to do a SERIOUS protective taping job to protect those areas from the stripper.) Strip the moldings, door and window frames, wheels and wheel trim, and anything else that will get polished. Basically everything except the tires and windows was clear coated at the factory. Anything fragile, such as the "weep trims" on your window frames, will get destroyed by even momentary contact with the buffing wheel. I started on mine by doing all of the "edge work" first, and then worked panel by panel.
Polishing a moho is a BIG and TEDIOUS undertaking. There's no sense in making it even tougher by leaving a lot of stuff in your way. Take your time, and attack the job in pieces. Give yourself the entire Florida Winter to get through the job, and you'll be a happy camper by Spring.

Keyair · 10-25-2011, 12:47 PM

Good advice Charly, and I wholeheartedly agree with every word...
That stripper drops and spots everywhere, and with mine, its not really an issue, as there is nothing to save!
Spot polishing and protecting that nice stripe is gonna be more work than actually doing the polish job Derek!
I tried the Citrus stripper, and found it ok, but slow... went back to my Spra-strip.

As far as the "Orange Peel" surface on the curved sections goes... Can someone tell me if there is "Aluclad" Coating on the skins of 80's M/H's?

crazeevw · 10-25-2011, 05:54 PM

I'm having great luck with the CitriStrip. There have been instances where I'm not getting enough of the stripper on a section, but second time around (plus pressure washer) it's falling right off. I'm taping off the paint strips when I'm working in that area. Decided this past weekend to start at the top and work my way down, especially since the front and rear caps are in the worst condition of any panels. Day off tomorrow, we'll see how far I get while waiting for appliance delivery. Then downtime to get new appliance installed in the 'home without wheels'!

t7389sg · 10-25-2011, 06:49 PM

Your blue lower vinyl stripe is still available if you damage it. I may replace a portion of mine if I can remove the damaged stripe I have now.

crazeevw · 10-26-2011, 04:28 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by t7389sg

Your blue lower vinyl stripe is still available if you damage it. I may replace a portion of mine if I can remove the damaged stripe I have now.

If you're wanting to get rid of that stripe strip, I 'accidentally' got some of the citristrip on a very small portion of mine. The stripper sat on the stripe overnight, and had it good an bubbled up by morning. Was able to save the stripe, but was impressed on how well the citristrip worked on it.

From now one, when I get close to the painted (vinyl?) area of color, Gorilla taping it all off.

Derek

t7389sg · 10-26-2011, 08:18 AM

Thanks for the tip. I would worry about the stripper removing my clear coat which is holding up very well at this point in its life. I may just use a heat gun to remove it when I get brave enough to try.

crazeevw · 10-26-2011, 08:20 AM

I'd recommend the heat gun, as the citristrip will definitely remove your clearcoat. Are you removing just one color, or all? Also, where can I find the replacement stripes?
Thanks, Derek