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Old 04-14-2016, 09:11 PM   #41
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1983 31' Airstream310
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I don't know about you Mike....

but it took me 30 minutes just to pick all the old sealant off the bolts and get the area cleaned off enough to accept the backer plates; let alone taking window frames and valances off, door frame molding, interior skin, interior skin on the door, drilling out rivets for screen door, reaming out upper hole to adjust door on new hinge, doing the previous step a few times to get it just perfect, masking off hinges for sealant, applying sealants, installing hinges with sealant on heads of bolts, and then reassembling everything.

I could be wrong, but maybe my watch was running way too fast that day as I could have sworn it took a couple hours to get it done.

Cheers
Tony
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Old 04-15-2016, 06:00 AM   #42
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I still say that they should include a simple note with the hinges explaining the markings in the casting for upper and lower. I should have figured it out quicker and flip flopped top to bottom but man I was frustrated. I also wish I had room between the rib and the door frame to slip a backer plate in there but no way, just too tight on mine. We will see how it stands the test of time without it.
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Old 04-15-2016, 06:15 AM   #43
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I have to admit...it was a two sunday project for me....I wanted to make sure the phillips screws were all indexed correctly !
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Old 04-15-2016, 06:30 AM   #44
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bobmiller1 View Post
I have to admit...it was a two sunday project for me....I wanted to make sure the phillips screws were all indexed correctly !
HA! Seeing how meticulous your work is, this wouldnt surprise me Bob!!!
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Old 04-15-2016, 09:35 AM   #45
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Sullivan , Wisconsin
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I should have said I had the door off and needed assistance for 30 minutes.

I work two full time jobs, have 3 kids and a sick wife at home, I have to work in short intense bursts. I was worried that I needed a week of perfect weather since I do not have a barn tall enough to pull the 310 into. Thanks to the awesome work those that came before me did laying out this thread, it was significantly easier for me. I did remove the inside door skin and cut the holes in the wall the night before, I bought all new stainless hardware and aircraft nuts so I did not need to clean anything. I added a piece of trim beside the new bunks I built that can be easily removed to access the nuts in the wall that may need to be tightened in the future.

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f46/...ds-149332.html

I used Socket head flat head bolts so the phillips heads did not need to be clocked.

My point is replacing the door hinges was well worth the time I spent fixing a very annoying problem and you should not be scared to do it, we should all know our ability level and plan accordingly.

The original hinges were reversed, with the U at the bottom and the L at the top. I put the new ones in the same way and they worked perfect the first time, that tip alone saved me an afternoon of head scratching.

Thanks to all that came before me, I appreciate all your hard work that saved a ton of time and headaches.
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Old 04-15-2016, 09:54 AM   #46
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Not sure if I remember correctly but when I received my new hinges and saw that they were labeled, I dont think I payed attention to the old ones as I took them off. So once they were off I didnt know which was pulled from the top or bottom......didnt need to right? The new ones were clearly labeled....NOT! Oh well, lesson learned, never assume ANYTHING when working on this rig. Glad yours went smooth!

Mike
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Old 04-15-2016, 05:48 PM   #47
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The motorhome hinges are the same as on the trailer doors and the trailer doors are flipped so the hinges are on the trailing side. Hence the L and the U being incorrect for motorhomes
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Old 04-15-2016, 08:38 PM   #48
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bobmiller1 View Post
I have to admit...it was a two sunday project for me....I wanted to make sure the phillips screws were all indexed correctly !
Just like making sure your driveshaft is in phase, (I had to actually look this up to see if someone was pulling my leg; they weren't).

Cheers
Tony
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Old 04-19-2016, 08:27 PM   #49
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I ordered my hinges from Inland RV, they cam in news paper with upper and lower written in sharpie on the news paper that matched the U and L cast into the hinges which is 100% wrong for our motorhomes. I think bkahler is correct in that they were obviously not cast for motorhomes or trailers with door hinges on the leading edge. My question is why would anyone ever put the hinges on the trailing edge of a door? what if the door was not latched? why would that ever be a good idea?
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Old 04-20-2016, 11:35 AM   #50
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Anyone notice anything wrong with this picture of the entry door from the 1977 Argosy motorhome service manual?!

Click image for larger version

Name:	Motorhome entry door.JPG
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ID:	261067
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Old 04-20-2016, 11:39 AM   #51
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Ummmmmmmmmmm, ya, the hinges are on the wrong side of the door!!!
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Old 04-20-2016, 11:41 AM   #52
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That didn't take long
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Old 04-20-2016, 06:11 PM   #53
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SpiceStream View Post
I ordered my hinges from Inland RV, they cam in news paper with upper and lower written in sharpie on the news paper that matched the U and L cast into the hinges which is 100% wrong for our motorhomes. I think bkahler is correct in that they were obviously not cast for motorhomes or trailers with door hinges on the leading edge. My question is why would anyone ever put the hinges on the trailing edge of a door? what if the door was not latched? why would that ever be a good idea?
It is not a good idea to have your trailer door open suicide style, but Airstream decide that it was good and certain trailer models open that way. Owners of these trailer have had exstensive damage occur going over, say railway tracks at speed, only to find the door has smashed back onto the trailer side. Owners have taken to padlocking the door shut.

Cheers
Tony
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Old 04-21-2016, 08:43 AM   #54
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Too funny.
I have a new idea, put them all on the leading edge!!!!!!! Unbelievable, I don't think I could ever stomach a suicide model.
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