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Old 12-26-2014, 03:52 PM   #29
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Originally Posted by mayco View Post
Martin, if your interior skins near the door are still off, it might be well worth investigating these backer plates for your door hinges. Sure would make for ease of tightening and small adjustment to the door in the future. Just a thought. Youre doing such a thorough, and beautiful I might add, job of your reno....
I've got the period between Christmas and New Year off work, so spent the morning in the Airstream shop, including taking a look at the hinges. I hadn't realized from your description that the bolts come in through the skin and access to the nuts is via the approx 1 1/4" wide gap between the door jam and the main front C-channel loop.....access is very limited. I can't even see the nuts as they are encased in a thick layer of sealant. Seems a little like poking a hornets nest but the guys are going to see if a current Airstream backing plate will even fit in the gap, then we can decide if we really want to go down this route.....I have a bad feeling about this.
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Old 12-26-2014, 04:37 PM   #30
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There wasnt enough room on mine to get one of those backer plates in there. As you have seen now its very very tight. Im not sure if different models of the motorhomes are set up with more space in between the rib and the door jamb. Those plates may only be applicable for trailers. Its worth the look though. I wouldnt touch yours unless your measurements show that you can squeeze it in there. I had to cut into the jamb a tiny bit just to be able to get a socket around the nut. Hope you keep posting pics of your rehab, its really a joy to watch. All that glass looks incredible from the exterior.
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Old 12-26-2014, 05:18 PM   #31
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Thanks for the comments mayco. The last VistaView (in the wet-bath) is in now so we are going into an assembly phase. This means I hope to have lots more photos over the next 10-14 days as all the temporary 'mock ups' are coming out, so the inside can be re-skinned in aluminium before the permanent structures go in. This may seem like doing the work twice but has meant we have had a chance to get a feel of what it will be like working in the kitchen, squeezing into the wet-bath/shower, even sitting in the (swiveled) drivers/passenger seats to make sure they are correctly laid out before the actual install. Here is just one example....the front edge of the kitchen countertop is angled to provide a side table if the drivers seat is turned 180 degress to look back towards to rear of the MH (say to watch tv) or a laptop desk if the seat is rotated approx 210 degrees to face the across the countertop, out of the front slider.
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Old 12-26-2014, 05:32 PM   #32
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Absolutely worth the effort!
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Old 12-26-2014, 06:59 PM   #33
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@Martin300662

I'm just including the pics I took of my hinge replacement. The first pic shows all sealant taken off and the bolts loosened off awaiting John (Shepherd57) to arrive with the backer plates.

The second pic shows the backer plate installed. John made it out of 3/8" aluminum plate about an inch or so wide. The bolt holes are offset on the plate as the holes coming through the jam are very close to the jam. I added nylon lock nuts on the back side of the backer plate which I used Premium Pro adhesive to lock them into place against the backer plate, being careful not to have any adhesive on the bolt threads.

If you have access to do this work now it will save you a lot of headaches later on if all you have to do is undo the two hinge bolts, pop the hinge off and install the new hinge. If I were you I would replace the hinges now and keep the old ones as spare.
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Old 12-26-2014, 07:09 PM   #34
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Ya Tony thats about twice the width I was working with to access my hinges. Strange too that we both have the same model, but a year apart. It would be tempting to go ahead and replace those hinges now......Even though Martin had said the door is fitting well. Maybe take a good look to see if there is any play in the hinge/pin....I think I paid $160 for the replacement hinges so in the big picture thats not a biggy
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Old 12-27-2014, 03:23 PM   #35
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The gap between the door frame and the c-channel seems even less on our Argosy, and is mostly filled with sealant (only the tips of the screw are above the sealant bed)



I'm due to meet with the techs on Monday and work out the best option (replace now or make sure I can access the area easily later), but I also want to find out more about the comment on Andy's website saying that the screen door hinge needs to be shortened for the mid-70s MH; our screen door has been modified (only to add a second sliding panel so we can access our dead-bolt) but that is in the area the hinge mounts.

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Old 12-27-2014, 04:16 PM   #36
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I saw that quote from Andy and its pretty vague. If he is talking about shortening the part of the hinge that slides into the screen door for attachment then it could be easily modified. There are two sets of 3 holes side by side per hinge for the screen door rivets. So 6 rivet holes per hinge.
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Old 12-27-2014, 04:20 PM   #37
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Old 04-14-2016, 11:31 AM   #38
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310 Entry Door Hinges

I swapped the hinges out on my 310 a few weeks ago. I needed to add 2 standard washers between the door and strike plate on the door. The door would drag on the striker (top hat) screws in the door jamb. it all works perfect now. My 14 year old daughter and I did this job in 30 minutes plus about the same amount of time by myself to re-skin the door.
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Old 04-14-2016, 04:30 PM   #39
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Congradulations
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Old 04-14-2016, 04:41 PM   #40
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It took me 30 mins to find my glasses
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Old 04-14-2016, 10:11 PM   #41
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I don't know about you Mike....

but it took me 30 minutes just to pick all the old sealant off the bolts and get the area cleaned off enough to accept the backer plates; let alone taking window frames and valances off, door frame molding, interior skin, interior skin on the door, drilling out rivets for screen door, reaming out upper hole to adjust door on new hinge, doing the previous step a few times to get it just perfect, masking off hinges for sealant, applying sealants, installing hinges with sealant on heads of bolts, and then reassembling everything.

I could be wrong, but maybe my watch was running way too fast that day as I could have sworn it took a couple hours to get it done.

Cheers
Tony
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Old 04-15-2016, 07:00 AM   #42
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I still say that they should include a simple note with the hinges explaining the markings in the casting for upper and lower. I should have figured it out quicker and flip flopped top to bottom but man I was frustrated. I also wish I had room between the rib and the door frame to slip a backer plate in there but no way, just too tight on mine. We will see how it stands the test of time without it.
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