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Old 12-20-2014, 08:38 AM   #15
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They could be installed one at a time without removing the door. But, I hear ya. Reading through the threads regarding the main door hinges, MH or trailer, youll find a whole lot of people doing a number of different things to try and deal with hinge wear.........not many on HINGE REPLACEMENT. The point being that the hinges will loosen and wear over time, its a common problem, and a real pain in the backside to repair/replace correctly. Those backer plates would eliminate the need to remove interior skins to access the nuts in the future. I know you dont need something else added to your extensive list but........
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Old 12-20-2014, 08:40 AM   #16
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If I recall John (Shepherd57) told me about these backer plates being installed by Airstream, maybe his 325 had them; HOWEVER he also stated that the backer plate wasn't physically attached to the skin of the Airstream. When you undid your bolts for the hinges the backer plate could drop down the wall beside the door. The hinge would have a gasket or sealant stopping water intrusions but no sealant for the backer plate holding it in place.

So for all those out there with backer plates installed thinking you have it made....when taking off hinge on jam side you will want to take out one screw, loosen off the other and try to swing the hinge out of the way so you can reinstall the bolt you took out into the backer plate and tighten, BEFORE taking out the other bolt. Use some washers on the bolt so the head doesn't disappear through the hole in the outer wall. Repeat for lower hinge and reverse process to reinstall.

My backer plates are sealed in good and solid with Vulcum and Premium Pro.
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Old 12-20-2014, 09:29 AM   #17
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So I'm thinking backing pates but sitting in some small z-brackets to allow it to move left/right and up/down for adjustment?
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Old 12-21-2014, 11:38 AM   #18
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Old 12-21-2014, 11:54 AM   #19
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I was cringing as he beat on a panel that was being held in place by a rivet claiming 'there is some give in the rivets' and only remove the rivet if you need it to move more than 1/8" of an inch....and we are surprised they leak?
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Old 12-21-2014, 12:13 PM   #20
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I loved watching that video!


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Old 12-21-2014, 12:14 PM   #21
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If I had just paid $100,000 + for an Airstream, and the dealer walked up with a 2lb sledge and a cold chisel saying he was going to ADJUST my door, ummmmmmmm....I think Id find another dealer.
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Old 12-21-2014, 05:37 PM   #22
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Quote:
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If I had just paid $100,000 + for an Airstream, and the dealer walked up with a 2lb sledge and a cold chisel saying he was going to ADJUST my door, ummmmmmmm....I think Id find another dealer.
Beats having your wife adjust the door up against a tree as a certain friend had done to his SOB trailer this summer.

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Old 12-22-2014, 01:39 PM   #23
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Screen Door Repairs needed

So, basically, what we are saying here is that the inside of the door jamb must be pretty much dismantled in order to get to the hinge nuts - which I assume will require dropping the engine and removing the rear axles. :| How do you get the hinges off of the door? The pins seem to only go one way - like the thing was constructed to be never replaced.

I need to repair the screen door on my '88 325, and it looks like the door cannot be removed from the hinges - correct? There must be some arcane way to remove the screen door from the main door and the hinges... or were these all constructed as a unit? You know, I LOVE my Airstream... and I have, in a very short time, come to LOATHE working on it.
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Old 12-22-2014, 02:17 PM   #24
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If you are just going to remove the screen door its no big deal. Yes, the screen door hinges are integrated into the main door hinges. If indeed they did it the same way on yours as mine that is......and as we know there is no guarantee about that. On mine there are 6 5/32 rivets per hinge on the screen door. Simply drill out the heads on the rivets and it will come right off. The screen door hinge actually slides into a slot on the edge of the door. Youll see it once you get started. It was real STUPID of me to say its no big deal........there is nothing on these things that isnt A BIG DEAL. I should have said, allow 35 to 40 hrs of labor and if you come in below that rejoice and give praise to the Airstream gods.
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Old 12-22-2014, 02:22 PM   #25
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Old 12-23-2014, 05:49 AM   #26
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So, basically, what we are saying here is that the inside of the door jamb must be pretty much dismantled in order to get to the hinge nuts - which I assume will require dropping the engine and removing the rear axles. :| How do you get the hinges off of the door? The pins seem to only go one way - like the thing was constructed to be never replaced.

I need to repair the screen door on my '88 325, and it looks like the door cannot be removed from the hinges - correct? There must be some arcane way to remove the screen door from the main door and the hinges... or were these all constructed as a unit? You know, I LOVE my Airstream... and I have, in a very short time, come to LOATHE working on it.
It maybe the oldest cliche, but the biggest tool you need in your tool box is....patience.

Cheers
Tony

Mike(Mayco) has you covered.
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Old 12-23-2014, 08:50 AM   #27
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I am right there with you on that patience thing. I haven't yet decided if they cause or cure anger issues. Probably a little of both. LOL! I have already "reengineered" a couple of things - which now work much better than the original design. I did drill out the rivets on the screen door, which was pretty obviously the only way to remove it. I am proceeding with the reengineering of that mounting methodology as I write. While the screen door is not a total loss, it does need some significant structural reconstruction. Floppy is probably the best word for describing its current condition - mosquitoes would use the word porous (which, in mosquito translates to DINNER). Fortunately, my main hatch requires only a couple of minor flexes to be brought back into good fit. Structurally, it is in excellent form. I took a very brief "proof of concept" stab at brazing the cracks in the screen door frame. I could get a decent flow of the aluminum, but the bond is simply not sturdy enough. I will be taking that to be welded. Re mounting will be with stainless steel, counter sunk screws and lock nuts instead of rivets.
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Old 12-23-2014, 06:05 PM   #28
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I could get a decent flow of the aluminum, but the bond is simply not sturdy enough. I will be taking that to be welded. Re mounting will be with stainless steel, counter sunk screws and lock nuts instead of rivets.
Yeah the fragile aluminum screen door needs to be welded by a very competent welder. Be careful with remounting with other hardware as the clearances are very thin. Personally I would just use the 5/32 aluminum rivets over again. Cheap and easy to remove. Just MHO.

Cheers
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