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Old 05-05-2010, 07:52 PM   #1
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1984 31' Airstream310
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Classic MH deadbolt woes

The other day I went to lock the deadbolt on our 84 310 MH. Inserted the key and turned ... and turned and turned. The deadbolt can still be operated from inside but cannot be locked or unlocked via the key. The key spins with very little resistance.

Any knowledge about what's needed to repair this?

How about taking it apart?
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Old 05-05-2010, 08:35 PM   #2
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Is it the lower one? The upper would be a bearcat to fix, I've been told,if you could even get parts. The lower one is just as much a hassle, though I found a locksmith that dealt with RVs and had a old outside lockset in his stash that got me locked again.
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Old 05-05-2010, 09:41 PM   #3
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Originally Posted by Mike Leary View Post
Is it the lower one? The upper would be a bearcat to fix, I've been told,if you could even get parts. The lower one is just as much a hassle, though I found a locksmith that dealt with RVs and had a old outside lockset in his stash that got me locked again.

My rig doesn't have the lower one. Alas its the top deadbolt which is electrically operated from the dash. On mine, everything on the inside (manual and electric) work fine. But when the key is inserted on the outside it just spins.
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Old 05-05-2010, 10:01 PM   #4
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Pull the inside door panels off & look. You might just get lucky & find the rod that connects the cylinder to the lockset has fallen off.
Ricky
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Old 05-05-2010, 10:14 PM   #5
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Pull the inside door panels off & look. You might just get lucky & find the rod that connects the cylinder to the lockset has fallen off.
Ricky
The lock in question is mounted in the wall, not the door. The wall panel extends behind the refer and pantry. Wouldn't be fun to pull it all out.
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Old 05-05-2010, 10:29 PM   #6
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The lock handle on the wall in my MH is only secured with 2 screws. It will then slide off a square pin. This pin connects to the cylinder. Use caution sliding it off as it will still have 2 electrical wires on the backside. You can look into the wall better & gain access for repairs by removing the step cutoff switch near the lock handle. You pop the switch out of the bezel with a butter knife at the top & bottom. Use caution as the wires leading to the switch may touch the inner aluminum panel & spark. Done it a couple of times already.

Ricky
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Old 05-05-2010, 11:33 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 3 Dog Nite View Post
The lock handle on the wall in my MH is only secured with 2 screws. It will then slide off a square pin. This pin connects to the cylinder. Use caution sliding it off as it will still have 2 electrical wires on the backside. You can look into the wall better & gain access for repairs by removing the step cutoff switch near the lock handle. You pop the switch out of the bezel with a butter knife at the top & bottom. Use caution as the wires leading to the switch may touch the inner aluminum panel & spark. Done it a couple of times already.

Ricky
Sounds different from my rig. I'll try to post some pictures tomorrow.
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Old 05-06-2010, 07:50 AM   #8
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Sounds different from my rig. I'll try to post some pictures tomorrow.
Ours sounds like yours...we lock the door lock, but the deadbolt 'hangs' from the outside...I can lock it from the outside, but have to use so much torque that I'm afraid the key will snap off. The inside is easier to handle, and is held in place by two rivets. Looking forward to the pics...mike
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Old 05-06-2010, 05:26 PM   #9
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OK, here are some pictures, first the lock cylinder in the handle:
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Next a view of the bolt in the jam:
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And the inside:
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Old 05-06-2010, 06:20 PM   #10
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What a difference a year makes, hard to believe AS would do that. Our upper lock, which only works from the inside, also, is a "Schlage", I see no markings on your lock,so, no clue. Like I said, you may be able to find some RV locksmith that can replace the tumblers, though my guy said the whole inside housing had to come out. Might as well tighten the door latch and 'loctite' them in at the same time. I do not envy the process.
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Old 05-06-2010, 06:46 PM   #11
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Here's what my 1989 has. Photo 1 shows switch & lock handle. Photo 2 shows removal of switch for better viewing behind panel. Photo 3 shows square lock shaft. I didn't bother to cut the hole in the tin big, so you should get a better view. Hope this is of some help.

Ricky
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Old 05-07-2010, 10:31 AM   #12
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Well I don't have any switches in that wall but I guess I'll remove the lock handle and see if the shaft can be moved.
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Old 05-07-2010, 11:38 AM   #13
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A last resort might be to drive to a locksmith. They can pull the cylinder from the outside to get a better look. Please follow up with the results of your repair for all to learn.

Ricky
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Old 05-08-2010, 06:28 AM   #14
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Well I don't have any switches in that wall but I guess I'll remove the lock handle and see if the shaft can be moved.
Guy, our 1984 310 is identical to your arrangement. Unfortunately ours works even less than yours does. The lock doesn't work from the outside and from the dash you can hear the motor try to operate but it seems to bind. We can use the lever from the inside by the door to lock the deadbolt but that's the only way we can get it to work.

If you can figure out how to get into it without tearing out the fridge wall I'd like to hear about it.

This deadbolt has been on my "hit" list for quite some time but I just haven't been able to get to it.

Definitely keep us posted.

Good luck!

Brad
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