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Old 08-20-2012, 02:43 PM   #15
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Having seen your collection, I'd call you fearless.

My best to you guys. I miss having you as neighbors.

Good thread. Nothing like taking something apart to really see how things work. Thanks for taking the trouble to document it.
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Old 08-20-2012, 03:02 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vswingfield View Post
Having seen your collection, I'd call you fearless.
Shh...we don't talk about these things in public

Quote:
My best to you guys. I miss having you as neighbors.

Good thread. Nothing like taking something apart to really see how things work. Thanks for taking the trouble to document it.
Heck the reason I document it is so I can fix it again the next time, if I didn't I'd have to start from scratch and figure it out all over again

Brad
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Old 08-20-2012, 07:01 PM   #17
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Steve,

I went out and did a quick mock-up of what the door lock assembly looks like and what really needs to be done to get access. The photos apply to the 345 and 310 motorhomes but most likely apply to all of the Classic motorhomes with the handle and lock assemblies that look like those in the pictures.

This is what the whole lock/servo mechanism looks like with the wall skin removed.
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These two photos should give you an idea of the wall picket the servo sits in.
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What I am trying show in the left photo is the required opening dimensions if you were trying to use a electrical box wall plate cover. The upper opening would be for a square 4" plate with an opening of 3-3/4" square. The next tape lines would be for a 3 gang plate and then a 4 gang plate. After looking at it for a while I really don't think you can get to the bottom two nuts unless you make the opening 9" high. The upper line of the opening has to be where it is at so you can remove the dead bolt assembly (wrapped in blue tape).
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This view shows that if you used a 4 gange plate cover you can not see the two bottom nuts.
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These two pictures show the size of the opening that I really think you should create to make the job doable (i.e. eaiser!). I would suggest the top of the box opening be made about 1/2" to 3/4" above the square shaft that feeds through the deadbolt opening.
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You can see on our 310 I only have a maximum of 4" from the edge of the door frame to the wall. So I will be creating an opening that runs right next to the wall to the edge of the door frame. I'll end up with an opening that is about 2-1/4" wide and 9" tall. I believe that is just enough room to get the nuts off, the dead bolt out and handle removed.
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I plan on using a sharp x-acto knife to cut the aluminum skin with. I think that will provide the cleanest results.

Hope this helps.

Brad
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Old 08-20-2012, 10:44 PM   #18
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Do you have to remove the deadbolt assembly to remove the servo? My deadbolt works perfectly as of now. It is very smooth to operate. I do not have the spring issue as of now. I think the servo is dead or has become unplugged. I was thinking of cutting two rectangular holes. One at the top to access the top nuts and one at the bottom to access the lower nuts and then fish the servo and the plate it is attached to out one of the holes. I need to study your pictures and description further and get a better handle on this. I'll tell you this, out of all the issues I have ever seen tackled on these Airstream classics, you own this one. Well done and thank you. Will report back soon. Steve
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Old 08-21-2012, 06:18 AM   #19
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Do you have to remove the deadbolt assembly to remove the servo? My deadbolt works perfectly as of now. It is very smooth to operate. I do not have the spring issue as of now.
Good question. If your deadbolt is ok and if the servo actuator arm is on the interior side of the coach then you should be able to remove the servo and still leave the handle and deadbolt in place.

If the servo actuator arm is between the deadbolt and the handle then you will have to at least remove the handle. Keep in mind the handle is sealed with mastic/sealant so you'll need some when you reassemble.

Unfortunately when I disassembled it several months ago I didn't pay close enough attention as to which side the servo actuator arm was on with respect to the dead bolt.

Quote:
I think the servo is dead or has become unplugged. I was thinking of cutting two rectangular holes. One at the top to access the top nuts and one at the bottom to access the lower nuts and then fish the servo and the plate it is attached to out one of the holes. I need to study your pictures and description further and get a better handle on this. I'll tell you this, out of all the issues I have ever seen tackled on these Airstream classics, you own this one. Well done and thank you. Will report back soon. Steve
If it became unplugged then someone at Airstream did a really crappy job of installing the connector because it has a locking clip.

When I cut the opening on the 310 I'll check to see where the actuator arm is located. However that doesn't necessarily mean they did your's the same way. I'm hoping to make the spring steel piece tonight which means sometime this week I should be able to cut the opening this coming weekend. I'll try and keep track of where the actuator is in relation to everything else
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Old 08-21-2012, 07:20 AM   #20
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BKAHLAR,
The distance looks tight, but rather then cutting out skin, remove the rivits in the door frame, after which you can gently peel back the interior skin. I have not tried the side with the lock mechanism, but have done so to repair the hinge bolts on the other. Not a big deal.
Then reassemble and no holes!
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Old 08-21-2012, 09:20 AM   #21
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x-acto blade?

I think I will use this tool to cut into the interior skin. It cuts a straight line really well. Ever try one of these?
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Old 08-21-2012, 09:40 AM   #22
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BKAHLAR,
The distance looks tight, but rather then cutting out skin, remove the rivits in the door frame, after which you can gently peel back the interior skin. I have not tried the side with the lock mechanism, but have done so to repair the hinge bolts on the other. Not a big deal.
Then reassemble and no holes!
Raveson,

By rivets in the door frame I'm assuming you're talking about the trim frame that goes around the door frame on the inside of the coach , basically a large upside down U shape.

I'm not so sure the peel back method would work on the 310 door lock servo. The servo is fairly large and I only have about 2-1/4" of skin that can be lifted up. I'm betting the skin would bend before I could get the servo out.

I do like the idea of removing the U shaped door trip to access the hinge bolts. I believe that would be easier than the hole drilling method, mainly because you would not have to try to access the hinge bolts at an angle. I've been wanting to remove the door on my 20' Argosy motorhome so if I removed the door trim piece I would have an easy shot at the bolts. I like it!

Guess what I am going to try tonight

Thanks!

Brad
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Old 08-21-2012, 09:41 AM   #23
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I think I will use this tool to cut into the interior skin. It cuts a straight line really well. Ever try one of these?
Steve,

I've never seen one of those before. Got any more information on it?
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Old 08-21-2012, 12:24 PM   #24
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Imagine a putty knifed with a sharp serrated edge that vibrates back and forth to enable you to make a plunging cut in any material. It can cut flush to the floor or has ceramic blade to cut a single tile out of a floor. It's a cool tool. This fein saw is German so it is expensive but Harbor Freight has a cheap knock off.
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Old 08-21-2012, 02:23 PM   #25
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hi,

I tried the Harbor Freight knockoff, and imho, it was a piece of pure junk....

ended up with a Milwaukee cordless unit, on sale from the orange box store - much better performance, better $$ value, again imho.

ymmv.
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Old 08-21-2012, 06:50 PM   #26
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The Fein is an awesome tool. It is exactly the right tool for the job that you might attempt to do by misusing a Sawzall. Very predictable and controllable, and almost impossible to cut yourself with. Excellent for cutting through caulking beads or the mastic that held your bulkhead walls in place. It just humms along any surface without gouging, and only minor scraping. If you focus on a bolt or rivet, it will gradually cut through that as well.
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Old 08-21-2012, 08:05 PM   #27
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I have one of these....

Multi-Max
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Old 09-09-2012, 08:29 AM   #28
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I finally managed to find a source for the dead bolt assembly on our 310. It turns out the deadbolt assemblies (actually called Mortise Bolt) are a discontinued product from IVES (imagine that!). It took me a lot of searching via Google to finally find a place that had some in stock.

The company that still has a few in stock is Maziuk who is a wholesale distributor for various lock manufacturers. Lock Distributor - Maziuk Phone # 315-474-3959.

As you can see in the pictures below the parts are identical. What Airstream did was remove the finish plate by grinding off the rivets and removing the plate.

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I believe the Ives part number is IVE1520420 152B26D Mortise Bolt. Price was $39.20 each. I ordered two, just to have a spare on hand. It sounded like they still had maybe 10 to 15 of these in stock with varying finishes. The finish refers to the plate that gets removed so it doesn't really matter what finish you buy since you have to remove the plate anyway.

Previously in this thread I had mentioned that I was going to try and repair the original lock. I did manage to get a piece of spring steel installed but found that the lock had so much wear in the pivot area that it was still hard to rotate. The new deadbolt definitely works a lot smoother and is easier to rotate.

Anyway, I hope this helps those of you who have bad deadbolts like we did.

Brad
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