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Old 12-29-2015, 05:03 AM   #43
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1984 34.5' Airstream 345
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After receiving shipping details on the slides I found out they sell them singly instead of pairs, cancelled my order. I will see what they say after they open up this morning. Right now my plans have changed, I will weld up the bottom tray including adding a stiffener in the cut area. Install the generator in the motorhome without slides to make sure that the voltage regulator took care of my low voltage issue then go from there regarding slides and wiring modifications, no use putting more money into it if the voltage regulator did not solve the problem. Right now I am kind of bummed out regarding the slides but it is my own fault.
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Old 12-29-2015, 07:09 AM   #44
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To bad about the slides, I guess the price was to good to be true.

Sounds like you have a path forward that will work. I was skeptical that the voltage regulator replacement on mine would work but it did so with luck you'll experience the same success.

Brad
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Old 12-30-2015, 12:09 PM   #45
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Installed the generator today and I have a problem. With the new voltage regulator the engine will start but will stop as soon as you release the start button. Also with the start button depressed to keep the engine running I did not get any ac voltage. Per the service manual that is either the 10 amp fuse, miss wiring or the voltage regulator. I verified the wiring several times also the fuse was alright. I reinstalled my old regulator and the engine ran fine but had the same low voltage that I previously had when I started all of this. I think it is time to take a break.
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Old 12-30-2015, 03:37 PM   #46
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Gunter, I'm out and about right now. When I get home I'll dig out the manuals and poke around.

I'm probably wrong but somewhere it seems like I read the generator won't stay running if it's not producing ac voltage.

Brad
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Old 12-30-2015, 05:01 PM   #47
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Ok I've been poking around in the 7cm service manual. If you have the version that I posted recently look on page 5-1 paragraph 8.

Paragraph 8 reads: To prevent this from happening a cranking interlock is provided. This consists of a circuit which provides a forward bias to transistor Q10 allowing the 1CR relay to be energized as long as AC is available from generator stator terminals 33 and 44. When the 1CR relay is energized, the normally open 1CR contacts close to provide a holding supply to B+ for the 1CR relay after the "C" contacts open.

Page 5-2 Paragraph 11 reads: If no signal to the bias circuit of the Q10 transistor is received from the interlock circuit, the engine will remain running only as long as the start switch is held in the start position.

Do you have AC voltage present while the engine start button is depressed, i.e. while you're holding the start button and the engine is running is the 120 vac present from the generator? If no AC voltage is present when you release the start button it will stop the engine.

Either your new regulator is no good or there is something wrong in the wiring between the regulator itself and where you're making connections to the on board generator wiring. There isn't much else that can cause the symptoms that you're having. Take a real close look at the new regulator wiring. I'm betting the problem is in that area.

We know the generator is capable of producing AC voltage. And in fact it probably is but something in the regulator circuit is keeping the regulator from performing it's function.

The seller offers a 14 day money back guarantee so worst case you'll get your money back less shipping. Hopefully it won't come to that.

Brad
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Old 12-30-2015, 05:25 PM   #48
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Another thought. While holding the start button down (i.e. generator running) check to see if there is any AC voltage on the two brown wires that go to the new voltage regulator. The regulator uses that AC voltage to determine that the generator is running.

Brad
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Old 12-31-2015, 07:11 AM   #49
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On the new regulator I am getting approximately 34 volts on one of the AC wires and nothing on the other. On the old regulator I am getting approximately 100 volts on one of the AC wires and nothing on the other. I am not getting any voltage at the outlets with the new regulator but I am getting it with the old. All measurements taking from each side of the AC to ground.
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Old 12-31-2015, 08:15 AM   #50
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I have decided to return the new voltage regulator since it is only passing 34 volts.
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Old 12-31-2015, 10:02 AM   #51
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At this point returning the regulator is probably not a bad idea. The key is to figure out why you only have 100 volts on one side of the generator and 0 on the other.

You've reached a point where I don't think I can be much help. I'm not an expert on generators, I've just tinkered with them over the years. Looking at the schematic for the 7cm the 120vac generator lines to the regulator come directly from the generator brushes. So if one of those legs is 0 volts then there appears to be something wrong at the brush end of the generator.

I hate to say it but your best bet would be to take it to a Kohler generator repair shop. I've done that once before and it wasn't overly expensive.

Sorry I couldn't help more.


Brad
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Old 12-31-2015, 01:42 PM   #52
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Thanks for all of your assistance bkahler. Based on the schematic I agree each AC line goes to its own brush holder and I assume each should have its own voltage, but then when you look at how to test a voltage regulator in your service manual 6.8 it appears there is one 120 volt line going into the AC terminals. Also the service manual pages jump from pages 5.5 to 6.1 don't know if there is pages missing since you mentioned page 5.8 in one of your previous posts.
I really don't want to pull the generator again but I think my choices are either as you say take it to a service center or pull it.
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Old 01-07-2016, 10:44 AM   #53
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Gunter,

5.8 was a typo on my part, sorry about that. I probably meant 5.3 but it's kind of a moot point now.

Any progress on finding out what's wrong with your generator?
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Old 01-07-2016, 01:53 PM   #54
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I received my money back on the voltage regulator, I see it is for sale again on e-bay. I plan on purchasing a commutator stone to clean the commutator to assure I have a good electrical connection between the brushes and commutator. That will mean pulling the generator out slightly to get at the commutator, would have been easier if it was on slides. I may wait for warmer weather before I accomplish this. Talking about slides, I finally received it after it was shipped from Illinois to Missouri instead of Ohio, then it was shipped to Cincinnati then to Kentucky back to Cincinnati etc. for a total of 9 days instead of 2, plus I was notified the company's web site was hacked and my credit card was also hacked due to this, luckily my credit card stopped the transaction for $649. I returned the slide the minute it was received. Makes me wonder if I should be working on my generator with all of this bad luck.
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Old 01-07-2016, 02:18 PM   #55
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Gunter, I will say this. It certainly won't do you any good to go out and buy lottery tickets right now!

It's unfortunate that this project has turned into such a challenge. I think cleaning the brushes is an excellent step to try next. It certainly can't hurt the situation and even has a reasonable chance of success.

I was looking closer at those drawer slides on ebay as I'm looking for some for the battery tray I'm building for my Argosy.

The picture of the tape measure up against the slide seems to indicate that the slide actually does slide out 4" more than the retracted length which is 18". So if you have a drawer that is 22" deep and you put these slides at the outer edge then when you open the drawer it will extend out 22". I've searched the Accuride side for information on these slides and can't find anything about "over extending" slides. But they obviously exist because he has pictures with a tape measure to prove it.

Since the price is so good the odds are I'll order a set once I verify the depth of the floor I will be building for the battery tray to sit on.

Brad
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Old 01-29-2016, 02:17 PM   #56
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With the weather being somewhat decent I went out and stoned the commutator. The commutator ended up being nice shiny color. The result was my no load voltage 116.1, 1500 watt load 109.0 volts, 3,000 watt load 103 volts. I ran the generator for an hour under 1,500 watt load with no change in voltage. I found another new voltage regulator, the seller has a engine/generator repair business and selling his old inventory, he is very knowledgeable regarding generators and he advised that there may be two conditions causing this; one is the voltage regulator and one is a open winding in the generator. I went ahead with the purchase even though it may not be the final fix. I may have a new voltage regulator for sale if it doesn't fix the problem. He did say the previous one I purchased where I had to hold the starter switch down to keep it running did mean it was defective.
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