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Old 12-26-2015, 09:38 AM   #29
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If you ever start experiencing hard starting try disconnecting the wire from the solenoid. When I was troubleshooting the hard start condition it took me way to much time to finally try disconnecting that wire

Brad
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Old 12-26-2015, 12:51 PM   #30
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I am sure my shutdown solenoid is gone, and its great to see Gunter's pic to tell me whats missing.
Mine does diesel/run on when hot, but it may also not be setup right... I had the crazy idea to weld an O2 bung in the exhaust, when I get a minute, and as I have enough cable to move the 454 sensor to the genset... and use that to set mixture!
Here is how mine looks currently.
Note the piece of tubing over the throttle spindle... a random act or an attempt to seal a leaking spindle bushing!



And the coil area, now I know the bent bracket was where the solenoid was!



Maybe we should not clog up Gunter's thread with other discussions, but I would like to have a more indepth discussion about this plug and 50amp conversion!
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Old 12-26-2015, 01:08 PM   #31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Keyair View Post


Mine sits a little higher than Brad's due to the fact that I bolted the Genset tray to the slide center... But I am having issues with the fan cover hitting the slide under starts and stops, so I may need to space it a little.
Plan to do that when I pull the whole thing out to soundproof the compartments.
Steve, I just noticed while looking at this picture that your generator may not fully extend out of the enclosure either. It sure looks like yours sits about the same way the one on my 310 did. I guess it might be necessary to use 24" full extension slides to get the generator far enough out of the enclosure to work on the back side.

I had the same problem with the fan cover, it was borderline touching the drawer slide.

Also it appears your fuel pump is mounted down low in front. On mine and Gunters the fuel pump is mounted up high to the left of the carburetor with a short steel pipe feeding the carburetor. I like where your's sits a lot better as it would be easier to service in that location.
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Old 12-26-2015, 01:09 PM   #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Keyair View Post
Maybe we should not clog up Gunter's thread with other discussions, but I would like to have a more indepth discussion about this plug and 50amp conversion!
Start a thread and we can discuss generators and conversion options.
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Old 12-26-2015, 02:15 PM   #33
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What is the black box located on the top right of the generator by the control/wiring housings in keyair's picture? Is that an external voltage regulator? I just finished redoing the sound proofing in the motorhome generator compartment using the recommended aluminum foiled insulation that bkahler recommended. Right now I am leaning not adding slides but I still have several days before I receive the voltage regulator so I still have time to change my mind.
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Old 12-26-2015, 02:24 PM   #34
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Based on what I remember, mine is on 22" slides and it does not come all the way out, but its enough to reach the rear plug.
I am not sure if 24" would fit...

My fuel pump was there, but I moved it to the correct place...

I also added a switchable fuel feed pipe, where I could run of the main tank, or a can... which suited me at the time, as I was draining the tank down so I could drop it. I think I will leave that option in..

Gunter, I have no idea what that black box is!
I will try to find a better pic of it, or take one this afternoon when i go over for you!
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Old 12-26-2015, 03:13 PM   #35
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Oh, here is a gem I found that might help you Gunter...

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Old 12-28-2015, 09:22 AM   #36
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Here's a sketch I made of the electric pump mod I did to the Kohler generator.
Click image for larger version

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You can ignore my previous comment about when using the push button that it would backfeed the ignition coil. I forgot I made a change to keep that from happening. Anyway the attached sketch is how it's currently wired.

Brad
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Old 12-28-2015, 11:26 AM   #37
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Received my voltage regulator today, started the install. Also ordered this morning a set of KV 8908B 20" 500 lb. full extension lock-in lock-out drawer slides, got them for $46.79 from Woodworker Express. I will be making a disconnect plug for the power cord, also lengthen it between the generator and motorhome and also lengthen the 12 volt positive battery cable and ground cable. I will have to wait until I receive the slides before I can install the generator in the motorhome and test the regulator, I don't have the generator secure enough to run in the garage.
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Old 12-28-2015, 12:42 PM   #38
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Gunter, that's a bargain price for drawer slides especially for a pair of them.

Looking forward to pictures of your install!

Brad
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Old 12-28-2015, 02:40 PM   #39
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Had a minor hick-up, I started cutting the bottom panel to allow me to leave the muffler on when I slide the generator out. The bottom panel is not strong enough to allow me to do that, it started bending down while I was cutting. I will weld it back together, there are too many cutouts in the bottom panel, it is not strong enough to support itself when you have the front open to allow the muffler to pass. Unless there are other supports I can add to strengthen the panel I will have to remove the muffler whenever I want to slide it out. I may wait a day before I weld it in case some of you may come up with a solution. I did install the regulator and have wired the cable extension coming out of the generator and added a 4 prong female receptacle. I will add the male to the motorhome inlet cable.
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Old 12-28-2015, 02:58 PM   #40
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I was wondering if you would have structural issues with notching the pan like that. If you'll look back at post #20 I posted a picture of where I notched the side of the pan slightly for clearance of the Tee in the oil fill pipe. The little support leg that's in the picture wasn't originally there after I notched the pan and I found over a period of a few years that the pan had sagged in that area. I added the little support leg to solve that problem. I think the up and down movement of driving is what caused it to sag.

I had thought about notching the tray like you but couldn't think of a way to keep it from sagging. Like you I'm hoping someone can come up with a solution!

You might want to rethink your 4-pole plug. The original wiring inside the metal flexible conduit should have had 1 green ground wire, two black (hot) wires and 1 white (neutral) wire. The black wires were probably 10 gauge where the white neutral wire was either 8 gauge or 6 gauge. The reason for the increased size of the neutral wire is due to the fact that there are two circuits coming from the generator. Each of the black hot wires shares the single white neutral wire which means the white wire will be carrying a lot more current.

If you're using a 4-wire black cord it likely has a black 10 gauge, red 10 gauge, white 10 gauge and a green ground wire. The white 10 gauge in the cord is not large enough to handle the current load from both circuits.

That was why I chose to use two 3-wire cables where the black and the white wires are 10 gauge with a green ground. Each cable is a separate circuit.
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Old 12-28-2015, 03:36 PM   #41
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You are correct in regard to my cable they are all 10 gauge. Did you then use regular 20 amp 110 volt male and female receptacles or did you have to go to 30 amp due to the 10 gauge wires. I believe the two black wires from the motorhome where 12 gauge but I haven't verified since it has been raining heavy for the last two days with high winds and haven't wanted to be outside any more than necessary. You are correct regarding the neutral wire it was heavy and would have to carry up to 62 amps where 10 gauge is for 30 amp. Thanks for your input since it is much easier to change it now than when I have it installed and the neutral wire gets hot.
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Old 12-28-2015, 07:02 PM   #42
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Gunter, I used 30 amp plugs and receptacles due to the 30 amp rating on each leg of the generator. If I remember correctly each leg is actually something like 31 amps so technically the 30 amp plugs are borderline but in this application I felt they were more than adequate. 20 amp plugs would definitely not have been enough.

I think you're right about the black wires from the motorhome being 12 gauge. They really should have been 10 gauge.

I don't know about your 345 but doing the wiring on the 310 for those cables from the generator inside the coach at the breaker panel were a real pain. The box is under the passenger side bedroom closet and it's only accessible from a small fold down door
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